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Hello! to all the Landy owners. I have been reading through several forums and researching the Land Rovers for almost 8 months now. I have been stuck on purchasing me one because I really like the rugged style and off road capabilities of this vehicle. I have anticipated a lot of care, maintenance and money will go into this new hobby. My question is this, I have purchased a 2003 Discovery for 3K. I carefully inspected the all the fluids etc... Check for leaks, it has oil leaks, appears to be near valve cover and lots of blow back underneath the body. Upon purchase was told by the prior owner that the vehicle was only driven short distances and the drive shaft broke, check engine light came on so they decided to sell. Well, after repairing the shaft, I drove the truck 5hrs(305 miles). No lights, no overheating, a little antifreeze leakage near thermo. Once I reach my destination, begin to hear a ticking noise in the left top side of the engine during idle. When I move the truck or rev... the engine no ticking, however it gets louder as the engine get warmer. Well, took it to the local Land Rover dealership was told it needs an oil pump/front cover, Upper radiator hoses along with a new thermo and water pump, new 02 sensors upfront, ABS Shuttle valve. and last transfer case re-seal. They recommend replacing the engine. After getting the dealer estimate, I took the truck to my local indy shop that confirmed that there was oil leaking from the engine valve cover area. Oil pressure was low needs a pump. As he suggested changing the hoses, sensors, flushing the radiator along with repairing the dealerships find for about 5K. My question, is I can buy a used replacement engine with lower miles for about 3K-4K. However; being that it would be a used engine and not a rebuild is this a safe measure to take or will I eventually run into this same problem later with a unknown used engine. Mine currently has 143K on it. Like I said I can drive it anywhere no problems with lights, or overheating, just aloud ticking noise when engine warms up and at idle. I checked the oil and its either almond brown or black. Had a yellowish build in the oil cap with a chocolate brown build up when purchased but changed oil and filter and haven't seen that again. Just wonder... any thoughts on this? I like the Discovery and plan to keep it! I was told by several mechanics that this ticking could be the lifter, rocker, rod or engine sleeve...whatever that is? It's a tick noise not a knock but could this get worse? (engine 4.6 V8 w/secondary intake no ACE)
A 143k sounds like a long time to get a timing cover replacement. Are they suggesting you have the timing cover/oil pump issue? It should have died a long time ago.
1. You can use a listening device (stick, screwdriver, or mechanics stethoscope) to listen to valve covers and tell if noise is from inside them or adjacent. Valve covers leak, need to tighten with 8mm 12 point skinny socket at each oil change.
2. Oil pressure can be checked with a manual gauge attached where oil pressure switch is. Switch turns off light at 7 PSI. Spec is above 10 PSI idle warm and 50 PSI 2000 rpm warm. If oil pump is cracked, it may not make the full pressure and it can tick or make valve train be starved for oil pressure. Kit to replace pump is like $130, includes new gasket for that leaky front cover.
3. Pix of oil pump if it is cracked.
4. Suggest you get real numbers on oil PSI, and let that point direction for repair. You could have a lot of miles left, if you will quit driving it with low oil pressure. Did mechanic #2 tell you what the readings were?
5. There is a jumbo oil filter that has been shown to bump up oil PSI by 10 - 20 PSI. It is a Purolator - see End All answer to stupid oil questions.. That may also buy you some time.
6. Most of what you list as problems is a DIY weekend project.
their suggesting I have a faulty oil pump. But I was thinking if that was the case, the engine should be dead by now. Well, I appreciate the expert advice here in the forum and will take the suggestions given and I will DIY, this project this weekend. I will get the oil pressure reading tomorrow and give a follow up.
Thanks Guys!!!
Kevon
A faulty oil pump can (but not always) make a tick noise due to the broken pieces moving around. It can actually function when cracked, will make over 7 PSI, the oil light goes out, but won't make PSI required for proper operation. So it wears out the engine bearings much more quickly.
Update; checked oil pressure over 7 PSI, ticking noise is still present after engine warms up. Nothing while driving, only at idle. Transfer case is leaking a small drop of oil, clean the area and will find one to two drops in the morning on the garage floor. Flushed engine with 6qts of ATF and checked oil pan, no sludge or build up. Changed oil with 10w40/Mobil 1 filter but thinking of using a heavier oil due to mileage. I still have not triggered a check oil light or any other light since they were all lite up a the LR dealership. I will be replacing the water pump and front cover, just to have a peace of mind. I have black soot blowing out my tail pipe and the SES light has came on. Thinking I should change all four 02 sensors. Will get codes ran this evening. My concerns was when I took this vehicle to the LR dealership and a independent LR mechanic. I was told the oil pump was bad and I was leaking anti-freeze,with the ticking noise but suggested replacing the engine. I am reluctant to do this considering that I drove the truck 500 miles and only got a ticking noise at idle. Changed the oil and filter the ticking is less but still present. Cleaned off the engine and noticed the leaks around transfer case, thermo, and valve cover area. Tighten the bolts on cover, replaced thermo, rad hoses top/bottom, will be replacing the 02 sensors soon and I noticed a clamp broken off the air assembly unit. Other than that I do not see the reason for wasting 3k-5k plus labor on a used engine. I did call around to retail a rebuilt or re manufactured engine only place I could find was in the UK. I have my doubts about buying an engine replacement due to find out that these are mostly used engines from salvage yards with lesser miles; with little to know mechanical history on them. I have changed my coolant and flushed/inspected my radiator and hoses no leaks not loosing any fluids on it or anywhere else. I have not had to top of the oil since changing it and replacing the filter. Like I said the previous owner said the vehicle sit for almost a year. So, after performing a few flushes and routine maintenance other than, that ticking. I am thinking there's nothing wrong with this engine. My only concern is will the ticking get worse and kill the engine resulting in a replacement any way. Buying a used low mile engine that's not rebuilt/re manufactured will I end up where I am eventually; since this ticking is a common thing with these engines.
Thanks and hats off to you all's; knowledge and experience
Kevon
I have the exact same noise, only when the engine is warm and only at idle. Alos have the transfer case leak. I will be doing the pressure check and if this is ok, will just drive it until something serious happens. Obviously will do the maintainance as good as I can. Seing some pictures of gunk on one of forum's 100k D2, when he removed the valve cover, it could very well be that the noise is related to sludge, gunk. I am planing on flushing the engine before each oil to reduce the sudge and even thing of a short diesel fuel flush.
The transfer case reseal can be a bear and expensive. You might try some White Shepherd by Univeral Products. You should be able to find it at your local Advance Auto Parts Store. It is about $20 a bottle. One bottle should take care of your transfer case issues. you should get a small had pump to help get it into the transfer case, the filler plug is a little tought to reach. I have used the white shepherd on several of my rovers with good success on the transfer cases. They claim to have a money back guaranty, ......Good luck. Phil
Did you get a number for the oil pressure when at idle, and another at 2000 rpm? At speed, the oil PSI should be 50 PSI, not just "above 7 PSI", this detects a cracked oil pump that can't make full pressure, but does make enough to turn off the light.
engine replacement
