Flex-A-Lite 180, Motorad 180 Thermostat, Evans Waterless Coolant experience
#12
04-28-2016, 12:03 PM
^What he said. The Motorad seems to pretty consistently run 10+ degrees hotter than the genuine thermostat. I had the same experience with mine. Also, make sure your electric fan is functioning while you're at it. They like to seize up, especially in areas where salt is used in the winter. It comes on when the engine temp hits 212 degrees so you are still below that but it's something that you may need once it gets hot outside. Better to check it now and make sure it works.
#13
04-28-2016, 02:56 PM
Camel Trophy
While they're both right that you need to switch that motorad for either genuine or in line, it alone shouldn't cause that much extra heat. I'm running green coolant with a ford electric fan and a motorad 180 and I never see temps over 201, they usually never pass 198. The motorad is just a hold over until I can get an inline.
#14
04-29-2016, 07:49 AM
Mudding
+ one on that.
After a proper flush/cleaning than included removing block drain plugs before/after and a gallon of vinegar for douche my typical cruising temps between 186-188 and never see 200 any longer.
You may also want to verify your temp reading by using a IR thermometer at ECT sensor/manifold. Found my IR reading spot on when cold but about 5 less than ScanGaugeII reads at operating temps.
......
After a proper flush/cleaning than included removing block drain plugs before/after and a gallon of vinegar for douche my typical cruising temps between 186-188 and never see 200 any longer.
You may also want to verify your temp reading by using a IR thermometer at ECT sensor/manifold. Found my IR reading spot on when cold but about 5 less than ScanGaugeII reads at operating temps.
......
#15
04-29-2016, 12:25 PM
I am going to order up a Genuine 180 from Lucky 8. I won't have access to a garage until July, but I don't drive it a whole lot. If that still does not drop temps I will go back to Peak.
Trying to get those plugs out of the Block with it in the truck seemed like an impossible task. I blew out the system with a Wet/Dry Vac.
I will update after the new thermostat is in.
Trying to get those plugs out of the Block with it in the truck seemed like an impossible task. I blew out the system with a Wet/Dry Vac.
I will update after the new thermostat is in.
#17
04-29-2016, 02:59 PM
Using vinegar as a cooling system is an old school alternative to using commercially available products. Internet search will provide more auto info. It's what most people use in their coffee makers to clean out water deposits. As you asked interested in reading others opinions as well.
Getting the block plugs out is the easy. Reinstalling the RH plug is a SOB the first time around. Does help to have a good selection of tools and elevate your vehicle for better viability/more working room. Use 6" wooden ramps I built years ago to get low to ground cars such as my GF's 280Z that lacked clearance to use normal steel ramps. They're perfect for Discovery scooting around underneath laying on the creeper.
Good for you. 1,000s of threads on the dreaded dex-cool. Suppose most folks think the deposits only settle in the radiator and flushing it or a replacement it will flush the lower block as well? All you need to see is one or two engines with overheating issues that were stopped up almost to the heads with accumulated debris. Had to end up using a metal rod with heads and plugs removed to flush the block.
Of course not impossible......LH is pretty much a piece of cake going in/out and just fwd of the CKPS.
On RH side you need to push/hold starter cable out of the way and disconnecting RH knock sensor plug made it much easier my second time.
3/8" drive 7/16" 12 point socket or combination wrench will fit the plugs.
......
Trying to get those plugs out of the Block with it in the truck seemed like an impossible task.
I am headed down this road but really want to go after the plugs in the block.Why impossible?
Of course not impossible......LH is pretty much a piece of cake going in/out and just fwd of the CKPS.
On RH side you need to push/hold starter cable out of the way and disconnecting RH knock sensor plug made it much easier my second time.
3/8" drive 7/16" 12 point socket or combination wrench will fit the plugs.
......
Last edited by number9; 04-29-2016 at 03:05 PM.
#18
04-29-2016, 03:04 PM
Recovery Vehicle
I thought I would post my experience after recently overhauling the cooling system by installing a flex-a-lite 180 fan and shroud, Nissens radiator, a motorad 180 degree thermostat and switching to Evans Waterless Coolant.
The fan was pretty straight forward to wire in. I used the included thermostat that has the insert for the radiator. The mounting was not too difficult, and I will probably look at having a shop do something more substantial and permanent if it is good in the summer months. The fan started at around 194 or 195 on its lowest setting, so if you want it cooler than that you would need a different control unit for the fan. It pushes quite a bit of air. It leaves I would say 2 inches on either sided of it when centered. The coverage of the Nissen's radiator from top to bottom is really close to perfect.
The Nissens radiator went in fine, and make sure you follow the order of the Rave manual or it is more difficult, but if you follow the directions it's much easier. I just tore into it like a puzzle and cost myself a bit of time.
The Motorad 180 thermostat was an easy install of course. It opened right at 180 and has been operating for a week now. I will keep an eye on it and test it every month or so, but so far so good. I gets the coolant to the radiator quicker, but I found the final operating temperature to be the same as the 190 degree thermostat, but I feel a bit better having it in there and that is a good thing.
The change over to Evans waterless went fine. I tested it and I have a bit more water left than what they want, and they recommend changing it again, but this is a trial period so I am leaving it with about 4% water left in it. I was able to bleed and refill a couple of times without issue, and was happy with that. I used a wet dry vac to blow out as much of the old coolant as I could. There is an install kit that has a neat nozzle for filling and some stickers which let mechanics know it is a waterless system.
Now for the temperatures. Without the viscous fan the engine gets to temp quicker and starts really easily. Driving on the highway the temps go from 195 to 204. The 202/204 temps are when you are climbing a hill or in traffic, and the fan gets it to 200 which is similar to what I had with the viscous fan. Around town temps were 193 to 197 most of the time with the ambient temperature at 15 to 35 degrees fahrenheit. The outside temp really had no affect on the temps before, so I imagine it will remain the same or similar, but time will tell. Only issue is a temp of 215 after engine shut off. I had not noticed that before. Not sure what that means or if it is a change at all.
I may end up going back to regular coolant and water wetter, almost completely out of curiosity and a bit of paranoia, but so far the temps are lower than what I was experiencing with the viscous fan, 190 thermostat, and Peak Coolant. The waterless will let the engine run a few degrees hotter. I don't drive mine much and wanted the benefit of no water/corrosion and less pressure on the system
The overall experience with the fan is really good. It is noticeably more responsive to the throttle on the highway and around town. I had a couple of O2 sensors replaced as well so am not comfortable saying it increased gas mileage, but it is much more lively. The engine feels, sounds and accelerates better without the viscous fan. My fan was the original and at 138,400 I thought I would make the change. Amazon had the kit for $267. The temps are lower, and that is with the waterless coolant, so in my estimation it is a big upgrade over the viscous fan.
The thermostat and waterless coolant make less impact in my opinion. The thermostat makes me feel better and the waterless coolant worries me a little, but as far as temps go it seems like a push so far. My old radiator was fine, just leaking at the Top left corner and had previously been repaired with silicone and a self threading bolt. I don't think the new radiator had any affect, as the old radiator seemed to be free of any obstruction or corrosion.
I will update this thread if my experience changes.
The fan was pretty straight forward to wire in. I used the included thermostat that has the insert for the radiator. The mounting was not too difficult, and I will probably look at having a shop do something more substantial and permanent if it is good in the summer months. The fan started at around 194 or 195 on its lowest setting, so if you want it cooler than that you would need a different control unit for the fan. It pushes quite a bit of air. It leaves I would say 2 inches on either sided of it when centered. The coverage of the Nissen's radiator from top to bottom is really close to perfect.
The Nissens radiator went in fine, and make sure you follow the order of the Rave manual or it is more difficult, but if you follow the directions it's much easier. I just tore into it like a puzzle and cost myself a bit of time.
The Motorad 180 thermostat was an easy install of course. It opened right at 180 and has been operating for a week now. I will keep an eye on it and test it every month or so, but so far so good. I gets the coolant to the radiator quicker, but I found the final operating temperature to be the same as the 190 degree thermostat, but I feel a bit better having it in there and that is a good thing.
The change over to Evans waterless went fine. I tested it and I have a bit more water left than what they want, and they recommend changing it again, but this is a trial period so I am leaving it with about 4% water left in it. I was able to bleed and refill a couple of times without issue, and was happy with that. I used a wet dry vac to blow out as much of the old coolant as I could. There is an install kit that has a neat nozzle for filling and some stickers which let mechanics know it is a waterless system.
Now for the temperatures. Without the viscous fan the engine gets to temp quicker and starts really easily. Driving on the highway the temps go from 195 to 204. The 202/204 temps are when you are climbing a hill or in traffic, and the fan gets it to 200 which is similar to what I had with the viscous fan. Around town temps were 193 to 197 most of the time with the ambient temperature at 15 to 35 degrees fahrenheit. The outside temp really had no affect on the temps before, so I imagine it will remain the same or similar, but time will tell. Only issue is a temp of 215 after engine shut off. I had not noticed that before. Not sure what that means or if it is a change at all.
I may end up going back to regular coolant and water wetter, almost completely out of curiosity and a bit of paranoia, but so far the temps are lower than what I was experiencing with the viscous fan, 190 thermostat, and Peak Coolant. The waterless will let the engine run a few degrees hotter. I don't drive mine much and wanted the benefit of no water/corrosion and less pressure on the system
The overall experience with the fan is really good. It is noticeably more responsive to the throttle on the highway and around town. I had a couple of O2 sensors replaced as well so am not comfortable saying it increased gas mileage, but it is much more lively. The engine feels, sounds and accelerates better without the viscous fan. My fan was the original and at 138,400 I thought I would make the change. Amazon had the kit for $267. The temps are lower, and that is with the waterless coolant, so in my estimation it is a big upgrade over the viscous fan.
The thermostat and waterless coolant make less impact in my opinion. The thermostat makes me feel better and the waterless coolant worries me a little, but as far as temps go it seems like a push so far. My old radiator was fine, just leaking at the Top left corner and had previously been repaired with silicone and a self threading bolt. I don't think the new radiator had any affect, as the old radiator seemed to be free of any obstruction or corrosion.
I will update this thread if my experience changes.
#19
04-29-2016, 07:48 PM