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Frame Rust - repairs needed for safety inspection - advice?

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  #11  
Old 11-19-2014, 03:23 PM
Paul Grant's Avatar
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You need to move to CT where a DII rejected by Fred Flintstone could be registered as long as it can pass emissions. More and more of the trucks I'm picking up for next to nothing are looking just like what's in those pictures. I bought one from NYS, one from PA and one from MA in the last two months. They all failed safety inspections (something CT doesn't even perform!) due to holes in the frames.

I'd take a flashlight to the top side of the frame rails along the back. They usually split right along the weld and peel back like a banana skin. It's not pretty and repair is not cheap.
 
  #12  
Old 11-20-2014, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by drowssap
Britpart makes a complete rear section: http://www.britpart.com/parts/repair...very-2/da8903/

Devon4x4 sells it: http://www.devon4x4.com/forum/2009-o...mart&Itemid=14

Discovery 2 Rear 1/4 Chassis
Comes complete with 600mm legs (LRD200) with joggled ends.
The Crossmember comes attached to (LRD210 (KVB100100)) with rear bumper Brackets (LRD201) Body mounting brackets(LRD202, and exhaust mount (LRD203)

The crossmember has been designed this way for a speedy removal – refit of the old rusty cross member, it will only take two cuts of the existing chassis instead of trying to time consumingly cut your way through the brackets and end up with an ugly patch work weld, the end result saving you time and money in labour
 

Last edited by acamato; 11-20-2014 at 09:32 AM.
  #13  
Old 11-20-2014, 11:01 AM
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It's crazy, I guess I have the advantage/disadvantage of being in CA.

The cars here don't rust like that so I never get discos for cheap based on rust(disadvantage)

But, when I pull a car apart I don't saw and drill out every nut and bolt.(advantage)

I parted out a car from Utah and what little rust it had fought me the whole way while taking apart the suspension, driveshafts, etc.
 
  #14  
Old 11-20-2014, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by abran
It's crazy, I guess I have the advantage/disadvantage of being in CA.

The cars here don't rust like that so I never get discos for cheap based on rust(disadvantage)

But, when I pull a car apart I don't saw and drill out every nut and bolt.(advantage)

I parted out a car from Utah and what little rust it had fought me the whole way while taking apart the suspension, driveshafts, etc.
PB Blaster helps a lot when trying to undo rusted fasteners.
 
  #15  
Old 11-25-2014, 03:28 PM
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Thanks for all the advice and thoughts guys!

Does anyone have a custom fabricated replacement for that rear end section? If you do, I'd love to have some photos or designs or input!

Thanks!
 
  #16  
Old 11-25-2014, 09:28 PM
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This looks like a decent alternative: Land Rover Discovery 2 / TD5 Rear Chassis Repair kit. Here's a thread on another repair: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...chassis-64559/
 
  #17  
Old 12-20-2014, 08:11 PM
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Under my '03 today replacing O2 sensors and holy cow from the rear diff back it is not a pretty sight. Not feeling good about how long my Disco is going to last........
 
  #18  
Old 12-21-2014, 04:24 PM
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Hmmm, don't look good collector87. Looks like a bad dose of road salt corrosion. Looks like in some places it's rotted from the inside out.

Whatever the repairs one has to ask is it worth it or economically viable. The other option if you have access to a vehicle lift, the time, enthusiasm and the rest of the truck is good is to swap out the frame for a new galvanised chassis. Big job but doable. Or the final option is to dismantle it and sell the pieces as you'll probably make good money.

See Some Chaps Change A Land Rover Discovery Chassis in 4 Minutes - ClickMechanic
 
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