EDIT/update: scrap all the info about finding bolts. You won't find the same bolt anywhere. Just do yourself a favor and stick to OEM bolts from a rover supplier like Atlantic British. In fact, don't even replace the bolts unless threads are busted or other damage. Do use new nylock nuts though. I'm personally going to use Grade 8 nuts described below, for 2 reasons: 1) I already have them 2) the OEM nuts are a little soft

I found a lot of conflicting advice from searching this forum regarding bolt length, etc, so I have a few facts to hopefully help any future searches, and then a couple questions (at the bottom) regarding the drive shaft to t/case connection.

Only the nuts need to be replaced, but I'm also replacing the bolts since I ended up buying Grade 8 nuts, and the factory uses Grade 5 hardware. I read that you shouldn't mix grades.

Bolts
3/8-24 Grade 5 or 8, zinc plated, partial threaded (I went for Grade 8, factory is Grade 5) FINE-THREADED! Coarse is no good. Coarse = 16 thread, Fine = 24
Front Bolt Length (to axle): 1 1/8"
Rear Bolt Length (to t/case): 1 1/4"

Very unlikely you will find these at any hardware stores (I visited 3). So I found a good place to order them online:
Front: https://www.fmwfasteners.com/product...FQmVfgod0xoOog
Rear: https://www.fmwfasteners.com/collect...ow-zinc-plated

Order 8 if you want to replace them all. Replacing the t/case ones will require removal of the flange (30mm socket).

Nuts
3/8" FINE THREADED (24) Grade 5 or 8, self locking nylon (nylock)
Might find these at the store. They were not at Home Depot or Auto Store. Found them at a local hardware store. Or order online here:
https://www.fmwfasteners.com/collect...ow-zinc-plated

Tools

• 9/16" Prop Shaft Tool from AB is extremely helpful. Get 1/2" Drive as you'll need the breaking power
• 1/2" breaker bar
• 1/2" socket extension (4" will do it)
• 2x 9/16" box wrench. 1 needs to be non-self-ratcheting (ratcheting won't fit). 12pt box end is fine (I couldn't find a 6pt at any stores). You want the box end to be as thin as possible. I have a Stanley
• 1/2" ratchet
• 1/2" torque wrench

Procedure
A few supplemental notes of my own. Read RAVE and search the forums for the full instructions

• I jacked up the car by the front cross-member. Jacking is optional. If you jack, do not jack from the axle or use wheel ramps. You need the wheels to spin in order to access all the bolts. The jack stand will be a little in your way, but its workable
• Use the breaker bar on the front nuts w/ the socket extension and prop shaft tool. I found these to be pretty tough. Stick your 12pt 9/16" box end wrench on one side (you'll know which). Helps to have someone hold that for you

My Questions

1. I cannot for the life of me remove the t/case side of the drive shaft. All the nuts are removed. The bolts all wiggle. It will NOT budge! What gives?
2. Once removed, I want to replace the rear bolts since I only have Grade 8 nuts. Is it as simple as using a 30mm wrench? RAVE says this is a self locking nut, so it should probably be replaced too? If so, what are the specs? And for the future, why doesn't RAVE describe each part or list a part number?! For example, looking at Page 41-8, it only describes the nut as "Self-locking nut"
3. Once I get the flange off, is there anything else I should do while I'm there? I've read about replacing the t/case oil seal o-ring. Procedure?
4. Refitting: I've accidentally rotated both ends pretty good with the drive shaft disconnected, in vain attempts to remove the t/case end. Does this matter? What's the proper alignment?

 

I just replaced my front shaft this morning. Axle stands under the front axle so the front wheels were free to turn.

I used two open-end spanners and a larger ring spanner as an extension when I needed it. Also used a 3/8" drive socket wrench with wobble extensions at times.
I was able to reach all the nuts without rotating the driveshaft more than the play in the front differential allowed.

I was replacing with a Lucky 8 driveshaft. The shaft as shipped came with replacement nuts and bolts, but only 4 bolts for the front flange. Given that, I didn't see any reason to mess with the t-case flange.
Since the shaft is properly balanced, I don't see why there should be any problem rotating the flanges to align with the shaft ends. Even though I didn't rotate either end while my shaft was out, I still had to rotate the front flange about a quarter turn to fit the new shaft anyway.

 

Read shaft end gets seized to flange and good idea to use anti-seize on surfaces when reinstalling. A bit of corrosion bond that will need releasing.
......

 

Weird, my drive shaft rom Lucky8 - bought 2 weeks ago - didn't come with any hardware... hence my long and fun quest to find the right nuts/bolts.

I'll keep hitting the shaft hard to try and free it from the flange. I'm worried I might damage the shaft (not a big deal I guess) or the flange ($80 part). Any tips? I've read putting a pry bar in between and hammering it can work... sounds like a great way to damage the flange though. I could stick the pry bar into one of the DC u-joint's, and hammer it from there?

Can I just put the new Grade 8 nuts on the t/case end and call it a day? Is mixing grades a problem? If I open the flange, I'll need to replace that 30mm nut, which I can't find the specs on, and heck, while I'm in there probably replace the felt washer and oil seal. Not opening the flange would be nice.

 

My Lucky8 shaft was new, but second-hand from a forum member who sold his truck before installing it. So maybe they used to include hardware but don't any more?
I would just go ahead and install using the hardware you've got and not worry about messing with the flange. It's a Rover -- you're likely to set yourself up for a whole host of problems if you disrupt it!

If you're really concerned about mixing grades, try looking for a Fastenal store near you. They're sure to have the selection you need.

 

" I cannot for the life of me remove the t/case side of the drive shaft. All the nuts are removed. The bolts all wiggle. It will NOT budge! What gives? "


I've had this happen more than a few times. Use a Propane Torch to heat the flange and while hot spray it with some penetrating oil like PB Blaster. Then give it a hit with a dead blow hammer. If still stuck let the PB Blaster soak, it will come off. And some Permatex anti-seize is your friend for the next time.

 

Jeff,
Sorry for the inconvenience. You ordered a Tom Woods shaft which is HD and custom made to order and ships directly from TW. We do not supply the hardware with those as we recommend grade 8 be used with it. The hardware we provide with our L8 brand shaft is acceptable as that shaft weighs about 10lbs less than your TW.


Thanks for your order,
Erik

 

To replace the upper bolts you can either chop em off, then install the new ones backwards, or you have to remove the flange to remove them properly.

Be it a Tom Woods, LR, or Lucky8 shaft the weakest link will always be the ujoints. Been around Jeeps with Tom Woods for years and the shafts didn't save em from constantly dropping a driveshaft out on the trails.

 

Well the bolts that came from FMWFasteners were all fully threaded, despite the description. Back to the search...

It looks like Graingers has the 1 1/4" bolt, but only in packs of 50+... still can't find the 1 1/8" bolt anywhere. Will 1 1/4" be fine for the front end?

edit: might have found a good source here. http://www.albanycountyfasteners.com...p/1090-028.htm
Placed an order.

 

Scratch Albany County fasteners... it's a full thread bolt as well. Talked the manager, it's very non-standard to have these length bolts partially threaded... he's never seen them... and doesn't believe they would be commonly available anywhere.

So what I'm going to do is take my 1 1/2" bolts and have a local machine shop cut them down for $20 bucks.