Front / Timing Cover Leak / Replacement
#11
01-31-2012, 04:37 AM
Super Moderator
oil cooler - From RAVE: Engine oil cooler (Only applicable to vehicles up to VIN 756821) so you may not have one.
connectors - usually have a squeeze or gentle pry tab - see attached pix from RAVE electrical library. Note pipe in bottom left also. BTW, your engine needs to look like this when you finish (lol)
connectors - usually have a squeeze or gentle pry tab - see attached pix from RAVE electrical library. Note pipe in bottom left also. BTW, your engine needs to look like this when you finish (lol)
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 01-31-2012 at 04:40 AM.
#12
01-31-2012, 08:29 AM
#13
01-31-2012, 01:19 PM
Timing cover is off... Timing Chain and gears are next. I went ahead and lined up the camshaft and the crankshaft gears, now need to run out and do a few home inspections real quick, I'll be back to it in a few hours.
It's 55 degrees here in the suburbs of Chicago and I'm looking to take advantage.
Thanks for any help. ttys.
Matt
It's 55 degrees here in the suburbs of Chicago and I'm looking to take advantage.
Thanks for any help. ttys.
Matt
#14
01-31-2012, 01:20 PM
#15
01-31-2012, 01:22 PM
Hello all,
I have a 2002 Disco II with 130,000 miles.
I'm in the middle of doing the front cover gasket replacement as I have a coolant leak coming from the top drivers side of the front/timing cover.
I have the rave manual and viewed as many threads as I can find regarding this topic. I've looked for videos on the web but have found nothing regarding a 4.0 V8 Land Rover engine still in the truck.
I think I'm at the point where your help is needed. I have the viscus fan off, the oil sump and oil pick-up removed and I'm about to go after the Camshaft Nut/Bolt.
I'm taking it slow, one step at a time and appreciate any information you can give as It's my first time working on the engine.
Step I need your help with:
Seal - Cover - Timing Gears
I don't have tool LRT-12-080 and I'm wondering what's the best way to loosen the bolt with an automatic gearbox? Do I need to leave the Serpentine Belt on to allow tension? Can I step on the breaks and use a pry bar? Or do I need to remove the radiator in order to fit an impact gun on it?
I have read all these methods work, just not sure what works best.
Thanks in advance,
Matt
I have a 2002 Disco II with 130,000 miles.
I'm in the middle of doing the front cover gasket replacement as I have a coolant leak coming from the top drivers side of the front/timing cover.
I have the rave manual and viewed as many threads as I can find regarding this topic. I've looked for videos on the web but have found nothing regarding a 4.0 V8 Land Rover engine still in the truck.
I think I'm at the point where your help is needed. I have the viscus fan off, the oil sump and oil pick-up removed and I'm about to go after the Camshaft Nut/Bolt.
I'm taking it slow, one step at a time and appreciate any information you can give as It's my first time working on the engine.
Step I need your help with:
Seal - Cover - Timing Gears
I don't have tool LRT-12-080 and I'm wondering what's the best way to loosen the bolt with an automatic gearbox? Do I need to leave the Serpentine Belt on to allow tension? Can I step on the breaks and use a pry bar? Or do I need to remove the radiator in order to fit an impact gun on it?
I have read all these methods work, just not sure what works best.
Thanks in advance,
Matt
#16
01-31-2012, 01:22 PM
Cleaning - brake cleaner, or some solvent and a brush. Seafoam. WD 40 in a garden sprayer. Kerosene. Point is, lots of things will clean up the visual area, which may make you feel good, and reduce big pieces to come off and clog screen. But the bearing surfaces are not where you can get at them without taking more things apart. Looks like some varnish buildup from long drain intervals (Previous owner). We did have a recent write up by pedronz, a kiwi (NZ), who replaced his bearings with engine at this point. But he had reason to do it with only 20-25 psi oil pressure at speed.
Nice pix, the one toward flywheel shows the teeth that the starter engages, and the reluctor ring with those milled slots, which the crank position sensor picks up as they fly by.
Running Rotella will help clean up some of that over time. Probably more under the valve covers.
Nice pix, the one toward flywheel shows the teeth that the starter engages, and the reluctor ring with those milled slots, which the crank position sensor picks up as they fly by.
Running Rotella will help clean up some of that over time. Probably more under the valve covers.
My pops says to use a quart of power steering fluid in the oil to help loosen and clean the walls of the engine. He used to do it with his Series I and was wondering if it's still recommended?
Thanks,
Matt
#17
01-31-2012, 04:06 PM
Super Moderator
#18
02-01-2012, 02:12 PM
Finally able to spend some time on it today:
New developments:
timing chain/gears are off and i'm working on cleaning off the engine block of the old gasket. I've put about an hour into it.
Take a look at the pics and let me know if I'm almost there, if this looks good to start putting everything back together or do I need to bring it to a shinny finish first.
Thanks,
Matt
New developments:
timing chain/gears are off and i'm working on cleaning off the engine block of the old gasket. I've put about an hour into it.
Take a look at the pics and let me know if I'm almost there, if this looks good to start putting everything back together or do I need to bring it to a shinny finish first.
Thanks,
Matt
#19
02-01-2012, 10:02 PM
Super Moderator
Big black clunks in top right area could stand to be knocked out. The rest of the varnish is also present in the rest of your engine, so putting a lot of time in it does not cure the rest. Unless you are making the other area shine also. Looks like you could stand a cooling system flush. Be sure to prime oil pump during re-assembly (vaseline, heavy oil, etc.)
#20
02-02-2012, 04:44 PM