FUNNY NOISE when I let off the gas on FREEWAY and during braking....
#21
01-29-2016, 03:08 PM
From the Lucky 8 Website http://www.lucky8llc.com/Products.aspx?ProductID=7594
Description: Tom Wood's offers a variety of drive shafts for the Land Rover applications ranging through the conventional two joint drive shaft, the conventional double cardan and a multiple double cardan drive shaft. If you have no lift on the vehicle, you are probably best served with the stock type drive shaft. If you have a lift on the vehicle you may want to consider a different design like this double cardan.
Now I understand they were pointing me to this shaft:
http://www.lucky8llc.com/Products.aspx?ProductID=7603
Thanks!
Last edited by jamieb; 01-29-2016 at 03:13 PM.
#22
01-29-2016, 03:16 PM
Super Moderator
Off roading has nothing to do with it really. It might quicken the OEM Drive Shafts death, but it is gonna happen no matter what. It isn't recalled because it is a maintenance item. Pretty sure it's listed in the service manual under scheduled service (inspect drive shaft/drive train). Land Rover's are not the only vehicles on the road with drive shafts that wear out.
It is a wear n tear item. It comes from the factory with zero grease fittings, it's mounted by a very hot catalytic converter, and yours has luckly been changed once however it looks as if no one ever lubed it, and my guess is all the ujoints are without grease, your center ball is probably on it's last leg, and it's just a matter of time before the chirping stops, you think for a brief second oh well that fixed itself & then BOOM BOOM BOOM BOOM, and you come to a dead stop, transmission fluid is gushing out, and instead of 228.00 you're stuck with a much much bigger, and time consuming repair.
I say toss that rusty piece of crap like I did (I DID NOT HAVE GOOD LUCK WITH THAT DRIVESHAFT & it's probably made out of chinese parts...), and get yourself the servicable unit from Lucky8, then at each oil change pump the zerk fittings with grease & no more issue. 8 bolts, remove it, fully lube new drive shaft, 8 bolts, and install. Quick & simple.
LR folks make this drive shaft design out to be crappy, but look at Jeeps or H3's. They have CV style drive shafts that can't flex well especially after a lift, the boot tears, grease flies out which allows water/dirt/mud in and it fails. Those folks spend $$$ on a drive shaft that looks just like our D2 drive shafts, with the exception they of coarse come with zerk fittings, but it's not OEM so of coarse it'll have zerk fittings.
Only vehicles I've ever owned that gave you 10,000 zerk fittings were Toyota/Mitsubishi.
It is a wear n tear item. It comes from the factory with zero grease fittings, it's mounted by a very hot catalytic converter, and yours has luckly been changed once however it looks as if no one ever lubed it, and my guess is all the ujoints are without grease, your center ball is probably on it's last leg, and it's just a matter of time before the chirping stops, you think for a brief second oh well that fixed itself & then BOOM BOOM BOOM BOOM, and you come to a dead stop, transmission fluid is gushing out, and instead of 228.00 you're stuck with a much much bigger, and time consuming repair.
I say toss that rusty piece of crap like I did (I DID NOT HAVE GOOD LUCK WITH THAT DRIVESHAFT & it's probably made out of chinese parts...), and get yourself the servicable unit from Lucky8, then at each oil change pump the zerk fittings with grease & no more issue. 8 bolts, remove it, fully lube new drive shaft, 8 bolts, and install. Quick & simple.
LR folks make this drive shaft design out to be crappy, but look at Jeeps or H3's. They have CV style drive shafts that can't flex well especially after a lift, the boot tears, grease flies out which allows water/dirt/mud in and it fails. Those folks spend $$$ on a drive shaft that looks just like our D2 drive shafts, with the exception they of coarse come with zerk fittings, but it's not OEM so of coarse it'll have zerk fittings.
Only vehicles I've ever owned that gave you 10,000 zerk fittings were Toyota/Mitsubishi.
Last edited by Best4x4; 01-29-2016 at 03:22 PM.
#23
01-29-2016, 04:16 PM
Just to avoid confusion - I am not the original poster. That is not my truck. I just jumped into the thread with some questions. My drive shaft looks like new. I replaced one rusted U-joint last year. My truck is babied. :-)
Just wanted to be sure you weren't looking at the OP's photos and mixing them up with me. I plan to replace the shaft pretty soon, though.
Just wanted to be sure you weren't looking at the OP's photos and mixing them up with me. I plan to replace the shaft pretty soon, though.
Off roading has nothing to do with it really. It might quicken the OEM Drive Shafts death, but it is gonna happen no matter what. It isn't recalled because it is a maintenance item. Pretty sure it's listed in the service manual under scheduled service (inspect drive shaft/drive train). Land Rover's are not the only vehicles on the road with drive shafts that wear out.
It is a wear n tear item. It comes from the factory with zero grease fittings, it's mounted by a very hot catalytic converter, and yours has luckly been changed once however it looks as if no one ever lubed it, and my guess is all the ujoints are without grease, your center ball is probably on it's last leg, and it's just a matter of time before the chirping stops, you think for a brief second oh well that fixed itself & then BOOM BOOM BOOM BOOM, and you come to a dead stop, transmission fluid is gushing out, and instead of 228.00 you're stuck with a much much bigger, and time consuming repair.
I say toss that rusty piece of crap like I did (I DID NOT HAVE GOOD LUCK WITH THAT DRIVESHAFT & it's probably made out of chinese parts...), and get yourself the servicable unit from Lucky8, then at each oil change pump the zerk fittings with grease & no more issue. 8 bolts, remove it, fully lube new drive shaft, 8 bolts, and install. Quick & simple.
LR folks make this drive shaft design out to be crappy, but look at Jeeps or H3's. They have CV style drive shafts that can't flex well especially after a lift, the boot tears, grease flies out which allows water/dirt/mud in and it fails. Those folks spend $$$ on a drive shaft that looks just like our D2 drive shafts, with the exception they of coarse come with zerk fittings, but it's not OEM so of coarse it'll have zerk fittings.
Only vehicles I've ever owned that gave you 10,000 zerk fittings were Toyota/Mitsubishi.
It is a wear n tear item. It comes from the factory with zero grease fittings, it's mounted by a very hot catalytic converter, and yours has luckly been changed once however it looks as if no one ever lubed it, and my guess is all the ujoints are without grease, your center ball is probably on it's last leg, and it's just a matter of time before the chirping stops, you think for a brief second oh well that fixed itself & then BOOM BOOM BOOM BOOM, and you come to a dead stop, transmission fluid is gushing out, and instead of 228.00 you're stuck with a much much bigger, and time consuming repair.
I say toss that rusty piece of crap like I did (I DID NOT HAVE GOOD LUCK WITH THAT DRIVESHAFT & it's probably made out of chinese parts...), and get yourself the servicable unit from Lucky8, then at each oil change pump the zerk fittings with grease & no more issue. 8 bolts, remove it, fully lube new drive shaft, 8 bolts, and install. Quick & simple.
LR folks make this drive shaft design out to be crappy, but look at Jeeps or H3's. They have CV style drive shafts that can't flex well especially after a lift, the boot tears, grease flies out which allows water/dirt/mud in and it fails. Those folks spend $$$ on a drive shaft that looks just like our D2 drive shafts, with the exception they of coarse come with zerk fittings, but it's not OEM so of coarse it'll have zerk fittings.
Only vehicles I've ever owned that gave you 10,000 zerk fittings were Toyota/Mitsubishi.
#24
01-29-2016, 06:59 PM
Super Moderator
Just to avoid confusion - I am not the original poster. That is not my truck. I just jumped into the thread with some questions. My drive shaft looks like new. I replaced one rusted U-joint last year. My truck is babied. :-)
Just wanted to be sure you weren't looking at the OP's photos and mixing them up with me. I plan to replace the shaft pretty soon, though.
Just wanted to be sure you weren't looking at the OP's photos and mixing them up with me. I plan to replace the shaft pretty soon, though.
#26
02-03-2016, 08:32 PM
From the looks of it i think you might need a new drive shaft. Your u joints might be going bad. When you let off the gas there is less tension on the shaft an therefore the u joint has room to move and make noise if they are worn. I had similar noise when my front shaft was failing. i doubt your joints have been serviced plus i can only see 1 service point which looks like a hi pressure service point on the shaft. You can try rebuild your shaft if thats the culprit or buy a new one.
FYI this is what my u joint looked like when it made noise.
FYI this is what my u joint looked like when it made noise.
Can you recommend a good brand... No Chinese stuff
#27
02-03-2016, 08:33 PM
Last edited by jamieb; 02-04-2016 at 10:37 AM.
#28
02-08-2016, 06:36 PM
Finally got the Drive Shaft off and let me tell you this thing is destroyed, not sure how I drove it for as long as I did ... I will post a video of it soon.
