Head gasket failure
#11
Don't remember where I got them from, it was over a year ago. The heads were shaved. I used a new snap on torque wrench with the built-in torque angle function. Followed the procedure in rave manual. I didn't notice any aluminum coming out on the threads. Did not clean the bolts before install. Just thought it was strange they came loose. I am nervous that I'm going to waste a set of head bolts just to find out the threads don't hold. Any input is greatly appreciated
#12
You may be able to tell if the threads are stripped just by inspecting the holes. You can also try to thread an old bolt in. It should thread in smoothly. if not, it might be stripped. If they are stripped, you might want to be careful about just drilling them out and installing an insert. There isn't too much extra material to play with in a 4.6 block. Hopefully someone else who has dealt with this can confirm if this can be done without concern.
#13
You may be able to tell if the threads are stripped just by inspecting the holes. You can also try to thread an old bolt in. It should thread in smoothly. if not, it might be stripped. If they are stripped, you might want to be careful about just drilling them out and installing an insert. There isn't too much extra material to play with in a 4.6 block. Hopefully someone else who has dealt with this can confirm if this can be done without concern.
#14
Mines actually a 4.0. Ran the bolts in every thread for the head bolts. The two on the inside edge on both sides of cylinder 5 are rough. When I took the bolt out, some threads came with. Looks like time sert fix on this one. I see on time sert's website they make a kit specifically for these engines. Am I reading this correctly, are the threads standard and not a metric thread? I have a bunch of time sert kits at the shop but they are all metric.
#15
I've never checked the threads on the head bolts. I guess they could be standard.
That's probably good you have the 4.0, I've never owned one, but they do seem to be more durable overall. If most of the threads feel okay, I would probably just do the ones that are rough. You know what they say about Rover's? If it ain't broke... it will be! LOL!
Better not to risk doing them all.
That's probably good you have the 4.0, I've never owned one, but they do seem to be more durable overall. If most of the threads feel okay, I would probably just do the ones that are rough. You know what they say about Rover's? If it ain't broke... it will be! LOL!
Better not to risk doing them all.
#16
I was gonna say......."4.6 block"? There isn't such a thing, there is only one block and this is a 99 DII we're talking about........
The cam, crank, con rods, pistons make it either or. I would not bother fixing a block with stripped head bolt threads. Used blocks in good condition are not that much when compared to a professional thread repair job. Not worth the time and effort, aint that special or rare to save it.
I've used TTY head bolts in aluminum engines (not just Rovers) without a problem for many years, not had any issues. ARP are awesome but spending that kinda cash on a low horsepower engine, personal preference..... Yeah they're reusable which means they don't stop head warp and I don't think they'd do much for damaged threads - if that's the case.
7/16" UNC, 14 threads per inch.
The cam, crank, con rods, pistons make it either or. I would not bother fixing a block with stripped head bolt threads. Used blocks in good condition are not that much when compared to a professional thread repair job. Not worth the time and effort, aint that special or rare to save it.
I've used TTY head bolts in aluminum engines (not just Rovers) without a problem for many years, not had any issues. ARP are awesome but spending that kinda cash on a low horsepower engine, personal preference..... Yeah they're reusable which means they don't stop head warp and I don't think they'd do much for damaged threads - if that's the case.
7/16" UNC, 14 threads per inch.
#17
I've never checked the threads on the head bolts. I guess they could be standard.
That's probably good you have the 4.0, I've never owned one, but they do seem to be more durable overall. If most of the threads feel okay, I would probably just do the ones that are rough. You know what they say about Rover's? If it ain't broke... it will be! LOL!
Better not to risk doing them all.
That's probably good you have the 4.0, I've never owned one, but they do seem to be more durable overall. If most of the threads feel okay, I would probably just do the ones that are rough. You know what they say about Rover's? If it ain't broke... it will be! LOL!
Better not to risk doing them all.
From 97-02 Land Rover used ultrasound to measure block wall thickness. The best blocks were used in the 4.6 motors, range rovers. Ask any rover mechanic and they will tell you they have seen dramatically less failures in the RR 4.6.
By 03/04 Land Rover was only producing one motor, the 4.6. So all the different grade blocks and probably back stock that didn't even pass as the lowest grade were being used for the Disco 4.6 motors.
03/04 4.6 motors are a crap shoot.
Last edited by abran; 08-24-2016 at 10:03 AM.
#18
The probably with the 4.0 vs 4.6 is first an added stress issue that the 4.6 exerts and second a tragic issue of quality control.
From 97-02 Land Rover used ultrasound to measure block wall thickness. The best blocks were used in the 4.6 motors, range rovers. Ask any rover mechanic and they will tell you they have seen dramatically less failures in the RR 4.6.
By 03/04 Land Rover was only producing one motor, the 4.6. So all the different grade blocks and probably back stock that didn't even pass as the lowest grade were being used for the Disco 4.6 motors.
03/04 4.6 motors are a crap shoot.
From 97-02 Land Rover used ultrasound to measure block wall thickness. The best blocks were used in the 4.6 motors, range rovers. Ask any rover mechanic and they will tell you they have seen dramatically less failures in the RR 4.6.
By 03/04 Land Rover was only producing one motor, the 4.6. So all the different grade blocks and probably back stock that didn't even pass as the lowest grade were being used for the Disco 4.6 motors.
03/04 4.6 motors are a crap shoot.
#19
The problem with the 4.0 vs 4.6 is first an added stress issue that the 4.6 exerts and second a tragic issue of quality control.
From 97-02 Land Rover used ultrasound to measure block wall thickness. The best blocks were used in the 4.6 motors, range rovers. Ask any rover mechanic and they will tell you they have seen dramatically less failures in the RR 4.6.
By 03/04 Land Rover was only producing one motor, the 4.6. So all the different grade blocks and probably back stock that didn't even pass as the lowest grade were being used for the Disco 4.6 motors.
03/04 4.6 motors are a crap shoot.
From 97-02 Land Rover used ultrasound to measure block wall thickness. The best blocks were used in the 4.6 motors, range rovers. Ask any rover mechanic and they will tell you they have seen dramatically less failures in the RR 4.6.
By 03/04 Land Rover was only producing one motor, the 4.6. So all the different grade blocks and probably back stock that didn't even pass as the lowest grade were being used for the Disco 4.6 motors.
03/04 4.6 motors are a crap shoot.
#20
I was gonna say......."4.6 block"? There isn't such a thing, there is only one block and this is a 99 DII we're talking about........
The cam, crank, con rods, pistons make it either or. I would not bother fixing a block with stripped head bolt threads. Used blocks in good condition are not that much when compared to a professional thread repair job. Not worth the time and effort, aint that special or rare to save it.
I've used TTY head bolts in aluminum engines (not just Rovers) without a problem for many years, not had any issues. ARP are awesome but spending that kinda cash on a low horsepower engine, personal preference..... Yeah they're reusable which means they don't stop head warp and I don't think they'd do much for damaged threads - if that's the case.
7/16" UNC, 14 threads per inch.
The cam, crank, con rods, pistons make it either or. I would not bother fixing a block with stripped head bolt threads. Used blocks in good condition are not that much when compared to a professional thread repair job. Not worth the time and effort, aint that special or rare to save it.
I've used TTY head bolts in aluminum engines (not just Rovers) without a problem for many years, not had any issues. ARP are awesome but spending that kinda cash on a low horsepower engine, personal preference..... Yeah they're reusable which means they don't stop head warp and I don't think they'd do much for damaged threads - if that's the case.
7/16" UNC, 14 threads per inch.