The heater fan has recently stopped working in our 03 Disco II. I have checked both the AC fuse (10A) and the blower fuse (30A)...both are OK. I can hear the relays switching under the passeger foot well when the fan speeds are changed. I can feel heat when driving, but the fan does not work. Any ideas?

 

Lots of posts on thisw problem but never a posted fix.
Do a search for HVAC not working or the like.
It could be a bad fan, fan regulator, corroded connection.

 

Continuing to diagnose....Using a test light, I've determined that no power is getting to the fan motor. I checked the relay that clicks when I switch the fan to high and found that only one wire has power no matter the fan speed setting.

 

I just had this problem not 3 weeks ago. I had to replace the fuse block under the dash. Got it for 100$ from landroverparts.com. It's kind of a pain in the *** to replace because there is not a lot of space down there, but it is just a matter of unplugging the old and plugging in the new. Good luck!!

And yea, it was the exact same situation. The fan would run if I jumped it and there was power going into the fuse block but not coming out.

 

I had this problem. A different fuse box fixed it like Idahos.

Willie
2000 Discovery
175,000 miles

 

I have posted in two different post that a bypass has worked for me. Look at the "A/C help" post, there is some step by step directions to bypass the fuse box under the hood or even diagnose where you have a problem. There is great instructions and I fixed my A/C / heater blower with $5 worth or wire and some good connectors. It will be worth your time to look back at that post, it could be a few weeks since someone has had a post there so it could be a ways back.
Good Luck

 

Thank you I will look at that. The fuse box I put in fixed the heater but the engine would not start with it. When the ignition is on the alarm light blinks slowly and nothing happens when I try to start it. The alarm light is not on with my old fuse box when the ignition is on. So I put the old fuse box back in so I can drive it. I have a jumper with a in line fuse between the defrost and the blower fuse ports. Maybe the ignition relay is bad in the new fuse box. I will try it again this weekend.

Willie

 

I have another possible solution. I had the same problem, and after shooting wires for a couple hours, I found the ground wire going to the resistor pack (big black wire) was not actually getting continuity to ground. There was a burned connector that was not making a connection. Fixed the ground, Fan blows on all speeds.

Hope this helps somebody!

 

hi, i have the same problem. my front and rear blower fans run intermittently.
i've tested power to fuse#7 and it seems fine.
i was wondering where this "A/C help" work-around post you spoke of is?
i can't seem to locate.
thanks
d

 

This is the full threads that helped me find my problem and solve it.
Good Luck!

Like some on this forum, I had an intermittent working blower that finally died. One of the fixes (for some) from past threads was to install a new fuse box. Somehow the connection through the fuseblock to fuses 6 & 7 fails. Fuse 6 (25 amp) is rear A\C blower, if equipped, and fuse 7 (30 amp) is the front A\C blower. Both of these were dead on mine as well.

I looked at the engine bay fuseblock, also. Fuselink 4 was good, however, the connector (on same fuseblock) it sends power to was dead at the Brown\w Pink wire. This wire goes to fuses 6 & 7 in the passenger fuseblock.

I ended up running a bypass wire to each fuse directly from fuselink 4 (cold side, next to side of fuseblock), with an individual blade fuse holder on each wire. I put a spade connector on the ends and tried plugging in to the cold side of slots 6 & 7. It still didn't work. This fuseblock was bad, also.

I pulled the fuseblock and attached directly to the wires out (cold side) on the back. For fuse 6 (rear blower) pull connector 585, first in line, brown with three wires. You want the Yellow\Green wire. Pull the white retainer clip and dig out this wire with a small screwdriver. It has a spade receptor, of which I attached my 25 amp bypass wire. Put clip back and replace connector. The next connector back is 584, pull it. It is also brown, but has five wires in it. You want the Brown\Red wire. Pull it out the same way. I connected it to the 30 amp bypass wire. Fix and replace the connector. Button everything up.

Success! I now have cold air blowing, front and back. Less than $20 for wire, individual fuseblocks, and connectors.
Attached Thumbnails
Attached Fileslink4.pdf (48.3 KB, 23 views)
It is usually a faulty interior fuse block, specifically at the blower fuse. Between the wire harness connector on the back and the fuse on the front, there is a break in the power supply through the block. You can replace the fuse block, or bypass the block altogether, like I did, and run a independent fused wire to the blower.

The resistor pack can go bad, however, if the max speed fan setting doesn't work, then it is not the resistor pack. Max fan speed bypasses the resistor pack. There is a different rated resistor for each slower fan speed.

Note: Both of my fuseblocks (interior and under the hood) were dead for the blower circuit, and I bypassed both. See the attached images in the linked thread. __________________
The drawing is of the engine bay fuseblock near the battery.

As for the interior fuseblock, check fuse 7 for power with a test light (with A/C on).

If you have power at the fuse, remove the nut at the top of the fuseblock, pull the top of fuse block down to reach the back. Pull connector 0584 (see photo), locate the brown with red wire. From the location of that wire in the connector determine which pin on the fuseblock that wire attaches to. Check that pin for power from fuse 7. If you don't have power then your interior fuseblock is bad (not sending power from fuse 7 to the rear connector). Buy a replacement fuseblock, or bypass it like I did (see below). If you have power on this pin, then either the voltage is less than the blower needs to run or there is a loose connection/cut wire.

If no power at the fuse, remove the nut at the top of the fuseblock, pull the top of fuse block down to reach the back. Pull connector 0581 (see photo), locate the brown with pink wire, test this wire through the connector with the test light (with A/C on). If you have power then your interior fuseblock is bad (not sending power to fuse 7 from the rear connector power supply).

Buy a replacement fuseblock, or bypass it like I did.The wires in the connector are locked in with a thin white plastic plug. Pull this plug out with needlenose pliers, take a small flat blade screwdriver and dig/pry the brown with pink wire out. It will already have a spade bit receptor attached.

Do the same for connector 0584, for the the brown with red wire (This wire is direct to the blower). Buy a 30 amp inline fuse, attach spade bit tips to both ends of the 30 amp inline fuse and plug into the 2 wires you dug out. The blower should work now.

If you don't have power at the brown with pink wire (connector 0581), then you need to check the engine bay fuseblock (see drawing in linked thread provided earlier). Power starts at fuselink 4 and exits the fuseblock at the connector shown through the said brown with pink wire.