Are you sure its the positive and not the negative?

 

Now that I think about it, it might be the negative? The last time I did this was about 3 years ago, and a few more recent repairs/tests might have caused this memory to become faulty?

 

It looks like the multimeter was on the wrong setting and I switched to the negative side and in getting .5A with doors closed and just over 1A when door open.

 

Good to hear you got my incorrect information sorted out *sheepish look*

.5A is definitely a problem. If the ignition key has recently been switched off, you need to allow a minute or two for the ECM to go to "sleep" before an accurate reading. If you leave the door open while checking fuses, you can just use the 1.0A as the baseline, then start pulling fuses to see when it drops.

 

Here is a link to the Land Rover TIB for the kind of battery drain problem you are having. Follow the instructions that begin at the top of page 2.

https://web.archive.org/web/20111119...w_8601nasf.pdf

Please note that the TIB specifies it can take up to 60 minutes for all on-board systems to power down on a DII. It also states that the max allowable draw after the systems quiet down is 35 mA (.035 amps).

I had the same problem off and on over a couple of years and finally tracked it to the SLABS computer trying to cycle the SLS valves even though the air springs on my truck were replaced with coils years ago. I took my truck back to the shop that installed the coils and had them change the SLABS setting to COIL from AIR, or however it was labeled, using their Autologic. Took all of three minutes or so to plug into the OBDII port and change the setting.

After checking circuits with an ammeter again and again I was walking near the truck late one night and heard a clicking sound coming from under the truck near the driver's door. I confirmed it was coming from the plastic box mounted on the frame rail under the truck where the SLS compressor and valves are located. I put my hand on the box and could feel a vibration when the clicking occurred. The next day I removed the cover from the box and unplugged the electrical connectors from the valves thinking that would surely stop the current drain, but when I drove the truck a chime sounded once I got above 20 mph. The same thing happened when I tried unplugging the appropriate connector from the SLABS itself and when I disconnected the SLS ground (as recommended in another forum thread on this topic). For me the only solution was changing the SLABS setting.

The TSB isn't specific about whether to connect the ammeter on the positive side or the negative side of the battery but I used the negative side. Less risk of shorting something if you work from the negative side.

I did it so many times over the couple of years that I added a couple of terminals to make it easier to leave the ammeter connected for a long period and check it from time to time. See pics. (Sorry for the pic quality; I took them at night with the iPhone holding a flashlight to the side for lighting.).

I added a ring terminal under the one of the other grounds on one of the grounding posts in front of the under hood fuse box. For the other terminal I made a pigtail from a short length of 14 gauge copper wire that I had lying around. You can see the pigtail in the second pic. The other end of it wraps around the battery post under the negative clamp. To test the draw without ever disconnecting the clock, etc. I set the ammeter on top of the jack or somewhere else nearby. I put the red probe in the open end of the ring terminal and I put the black probe into the pigtail on the battery post. Only then do I loosen and remove the negative battery cable from its post. I'm happy to say that after all the systems settle down my ammeter shows the draw at 30 mA.

 

Ok, got a friend over to help me with pulling fuses and watching multimeter. Fuse 19 was the culprit, meter was running .38 to .50 and then bam 0.00 after fuse 19 got pulled. Looked at the fuse diagram and it says that fuse is Wiper motor - front and Screen washer - front. now that i see that i remember the wipers not responding quite normal a few weeks back. I would turn the wipers on and it wouldn't respond to the auto settings only the manual setting. Anyways, anyone have any ideas of what I should replace? My first thought is obviously the front wiper motor, but could it be other things that cause the drain?

 

It seems that when I remove the fuse 19 that the key fob, dim light, radio, and probably some other stuff don't work. Is this normal? the fuse is supposed to be about the wiper motor - front and such. I thought this was an interesting thing to be happening. Would really like some help with figuring out this battery brain issue. thanks

 

Do you have an aftermarket stereo, maybe a bass box was installed at one time? Is there an accessory cable (aftermarket) going from the battery?

 

no, I dont not seeing any extra cable(s) running to the battery.

 

From looking at RAVE, fuse 19 goes to header 292 which also ties into all of your door lock motors.