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How to change Crankshaft position sensor 2000 DII

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  #11  
Old 04-23-2010, 10:17 PM
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Reassembly Note: THE SENSOR GOES ON THE STUD FIRST, THEN THE 2 BARREL SPACERS, THEN THE 8mm NUTS. Protective cover uses 7mm head screws.
 
  #12  
Old 10-06-2010, 04:19 PM
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After reading through various issues, I'm thinking this is what's wrong with my 04 Disco/104k.

About two weeks ago, I went to the gas station that is about 2 miles away. It drove fine down there and hasn't been giving me any major problems at this point. I was in the gas station for about 2 minutes, came out and it wouldn't turn over. Sat there for about half a day trying to get it started. Would try it, nothing, would let it sit for awhile, try again, nothing, repeat. Finally it turned over so I was high-tailing it out of there to get it back home. Stalled out about a 1/4 mile from home and sat there for awhile. Finally got it started again and made it home, but the last start sounded a little rough so it's just been sitting in fear of possibly doing anymore damage to it.

New CPS came in the mail yesterday, going to try to install it tomorrow. I hope that was the problem :/
 
  #13  
Old 10-08-2010, 04:50 PM
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Default Help!!

Just finished installing my new crankshaft position sensor. Tried to start the truck, nothing. Has power, but there is no cranking on the ignition. It was at least trying to start before I changed it, now it's dead
 
  #14  
Old 10-27-2010, 06:52 PM
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I've heard that after you replace the CKP Sensor, It needs to be hooked up to Testbook to reset something? Is that true?
 
  #15  
Old 10-27-2010, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by goutah
I've heard that after you replace the CKP Sensor, It needs to be hooked up to Testbook to reset something? Is that true?
No, that is 100% false.
 
  #16  
Old 10-27-2010, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Spike555
No, that is 100% false.

Great!! Thank you!!

I'll be putting mine in this weekend, And I'll post how it went.
 
  #17  
Old 10-29-2010, 09:37 PM
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  #18  
Old 11-02-2010, 01:18 PM
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OK, I am interested to hear how this testbook question pans out. I just had a dealer replace mine $$$$ and it seems to be a common problem. The job seems simple enough to do myself the next time. So I hope somebody will follow up on this question. Thanks in advance
 
  #19  
Old 01-23-2012, 10:57 AM
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Default A Few Suggestions...

I found this thread to be very helpful and wanted to offer a few suggestions to future readers. This is not a technically complex project, but it does take some resolve. I did not believe it would take an hour to do this until I tried to get my hands up in there. Access is very limited. Here are my suggestions:
  1. If you are doing this project on jack stands, position your body parallel to the frame with your head up near the oil pan. This body position will allow you to use two hands on the socket wrench, and see (kind of) what you are doing.
  2. If you need extra access space, you can undo the three bolts on the exhaust manifold and pull it down about an inch. I couldn't get my wrists past the exhaust pipe without doing this.
  3. I found that is was easier to access the connector from the topside of the engine. I pushed it out of the bracket with a screwdriver and fished the wire up with a coathanger.
 
  #20  
Old 02-22-2012, 10:42 PM
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truck starting misfiring. ses light came on. went to autozone and read codes. misfiring in numerous cylinders etc. would start up cold and run fine. but hot would crank but not fire up. looked in the forum found this thread. called up disco mike and he said it sounded like the cps. bought the one at autozone for 70 bucks. its actually bosch. called up atlantic british ordered the magnacore wires and platinum plus plugs, will do that next weekend.
thread was a lifesaver. the only thing is it def didnt take me 60 minutes. man what a tight fit. lol...

had to break out the rr for some extra light.

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truck fires up now just fine. looking forward to the new wires and plugs. thanks for the help guys and a big thanks to discomike. alot better than spending 400 at the shop.
 


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