I have a bad hub on the front drivers's side and a leak from the passenger side axle seal.

My question is what are the best tools to remove a hub? I can rent the puller from Autozone, but really just want to hear how to get the hub nut off. Do I need an impact wrench? I don't think my breaker bar could take it.

 

You're not having a fun time lately are you

The staked nut is on tight, I mean f----king tight, you'll need a good long breaker bar, 3/4" is best or 1/2" will do and some gas barrel about 1 1/4" ID say around 3' to 4' long. You'll need a high end torque wrench to do up the new nuts. Make sure you have the new stake nuts before starting. If you need to replace pads or rotors now is the time to do it. Also consider replacing the inner oil seal as the hub will be off.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...acement-78659/

 

I try to convince myself I am having fun... My Dad thinks I inherited my Grandpa's curse of working on his own cars, albeit he was a mechanic.

I will just grab a bigger breaker bar, I have a long length of pipe. I have to do the inner oil seal on the passenger, I will do the driver's side as well.

 

I got a couple of hubs, and i pulled off the abs sensor to take a look. It does not look like there is any grease in them. Has anyone had experience with that? Do I need to grease them?

 

I've never actually used a torque wrench, and I've replaced 3/4 hubs on my disco. Just a big a** breaker bar with some pipe on the end. Factory torque is something like 365 lbs, which is equivelant to about 92 lbs on the end of a 4 ft breaker bar. I figure at these kinds of pressures, precision is not incredibly important, so I just sit on the end of my breaker bar and call it good enough. Hasn't led me wrong yet.

To get it off, I leave the rim on with the center cap out. I use my breaker bar, socket through the hole, and use my hi-lift to jack the end of the bar up until the nut breaks loose. After I've un-bent the locking dent deallio on the nut.

I don't use a puller tool. Instead, once the nut and rjm are off, I tap the end of the axle a couple times with a hammer. Then I work my way tapping around the back of the hub to break it loose and work it out. If needed, I tap on the axle some more once the hub is loose. I've tried the puller method and this is easier. I broke two rental pullers. The hub pullers wont fit, you would have to use the large claw kind.

 

Thanks Alex! Did you grease the hubs at all. Really smart to loosen it with wheel on.

 

Nope, no greasing. Just slapped it on as it came.

I decided to do it with the wheel on after I almost rolled my truck off the jack stand on the second one I did in the AutoZone parking lot. Scared the sh*t out of me. Had to get my jack back under the truck with the jack stand on two feet.

 

I used a 1/2 32inch long breaker bar from HF and it wasn't bad at all. Like Alex I removed the center cap and loosened the nut with the D2 on the ground. Then I jacked it up and went to work on the rest of it. For the actual hub itself I find if I loosen the bolts holding it to the Axle (don't fully un-thread them) and then tap on them with a dead blow hammer the hub will normally break free. Of coarse if you live up north it's probably a good idea to soak the axle splines and the hub/axle area with some PB before attempting to remove em.

 

Smacking the bolts... That's genius. I'm going to use that when I install my warranty replacement for my newest. Came in and made scraping noises immediately.

 

Thanks for the tips guys. Really helpful.