Hub removal
#12
#14
Use the correct sized socket with a T bar and tighten with a longish tube, typically, you would need to exert 120 lbs at 3'00" or 90lbs at 4'00".
Easy to calculate, 360lbs at 1'00" so divide 360 by 2= 180lbs, or divide 360 by 3= 120lbs, or divide 360 by 4+90lbs. Therefore exert 120lbs at 3'00" on the tube gives you 360lb/ft of torque at the nut.
Use a bathroom scales to check the amount of downward pressure/weight needed. Be careful the socket doesn't turn off the nut whilst doing this, use a G clamp or similar to hold it in place over the T bar. Better still get the wife to do it whilst you watch eh
#15
For the record, used the brakes to hold the hub in place, I got the nuts off with a Husky 1/2" electric impact gun, and put them back on by standing 2 on the cheater bar 2 feet from the center. I used a puller to yank the hubs with no problems at all. I think I might have tapped on the hubs once I had some tension on them to get them moving.
For me, by far the hardest part was finding the special sealant. I went to every parts store in south Miami before I finally found it at a NAPA. Finding the sealant took longer than the actual job.
For me, by far the hardest part was finding the special sealant. I went to every parts store in south Miami before I finally found it at a NAPA. Finding the sealant took longer than the actual job.
#17
I second that, I just had the car running and had the wife step on brakes, came off no problem with 24" breaker bar and me standing/jumping on the end (2ft * 200lbs + jump = 500lbs)
Same method to put it back on. (without the jumping!)
Same method to put it back on. (without the jumping!)
#18
#20
X1 ..................... when the bolt lugs are hottish spray on some PB Blaster or Plusgas and leave to cool overnight then reheat the bolt lugs and try again with a six point impact socket on a breaker bar. Don't use a 12 point socket as they are useless on seized bolts and break easily or round off the bolt head.