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Hub removal

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  #11  
Old 07-22-2016, 02:30 PM
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I chickened out and paid a mechanic to do my hub — $285 Canadian.
360lbs of torque felt out of my league.
 
  #12  
Old 07-22-2016, 03:13 PM
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If mine were 360ft LB I must be one strong man! I popped a center cap off, inserted socket used my HF 1/2 32inch breaker bar and they loosened right up. These were OEM hubs I removed as well.

Well good news is it's over n done with.
 
  #13  
Old 07-23-2016, 06:44 PM
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It was more the 360 ft/lbs needed to put it on again. That's important.

 
  #14  
Old 07-24-2016, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Fallstaff
It was more the 360 ft/lbs needed to put it on again. That's important.

You can easily tighten to 360lb/ft without a special industrial torque wrench.

Use the correct sized socket with a T bar and tighten with a longish tube, typically, you would need to exert 120 lbs at 3'00" or 90lbs at 4'00".

Easy to calculate, 360lbs at 1'00" so divide 360 by 2= 180lbs, or divide 360 by 3= 120lbs, or divide 360 by 4+90lbs. Therefore exert 120lbs at 3'00" on the tube gives you 360lb/ft of torque at the nut.

Use a bathroom scales to check the amount of downward pressure/weight needed. Be careful the socket doesn't turn off the nut whilst doing this, use a G clamp or similar to hold it in place over the T bar. Better still get the wife to do it whilst you watch eh
 
  #15  
Old 07-24-2016, 08:54 AM
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For the record, used the brakes to hold the hub in place, I got the nuts off with a Husky 1/2" electric impact gun, and put them back on by standing 2 on the cheater bar 2 feet from the center. I used a puller to yank the hubs with no problems at all. I think I might have tapped on the hubs once I had some tension on them to get them moving.

For me, by far the hardest part was finding the special sealant. I went to every parts store in south Miami before I finally found it at a NAPA. Finding the sealant took longer than the actual job.
 
  #16  
Old 07-24-2016, 10:38 AM
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I went to every parts store in south Miami before I finally found it at a NAPA.
Do you remember what Brand/mfg/PN you used from NAPA?
Thanks.
 
  #17  
Old 07-25-2016, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dr. mordo
For the record, used the brakes to hold the hub in place...
I second that, I just had the car running and had the wife step on brakes, came off no problem with 24" breaker bar and me standing/jumping on the end (2ft * 200lbs + jump = 500lbs)
Same method to put it back on. (without the jumping!)
 
  #18  
Old 07-27-2016, 11:21 AM
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The 3/4" breaker bar worked great, and so did the PB Blaster. I have it down to the hubs on, but they are stuck as expected. I will just have to keep beating on the, until they pop loose. I tried to tap the bolts from the back, didn't budge it.
 
  #19  
Old 07-27-2016, 12:43 PM
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If you've got a propane torch, heating up the outside where the hub mounts (not the hub itself) may help loosen it up.
 
  #20  
Old 07-27-2016, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Alex_M
If you've got a propane torch, heating up the outside where the hub mounts (not the hub itself) may help loosen it up.
X1 ..................... when the bolt lugs are hottish spray on some PB Blaster or Plusgas and leave to cool overnight then reheat the bolt lugs and try again with a six point impact socket on a breaker bar. Don't use a 12 point socket as they are useless on seized bolts and break easily or round off the bolt head.
 


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