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If they give you a warranty, keep a copy in glove box, you may have it honored at one of their stores in another town, etc. Normally one does not throw parts at the truck, be sure you have diagnosed the problem before investing in parts, and consider other options if budget is tight - salvage yard (you pull style is cheapest) , dismantler, etc.
The trucks really are not common on the Island here.. I already got burnt with 1 bad pump (so I was told).. It was only 40 bucks though.. the bottom line is its way to cold here for me to tinker.. keep in mind I have very limited mechanical skills.. Thank you Savannah youre the best.. besides the steering issue I have the truck dying intermittently after warmup.. when I say "die" its kind of strange because the truck doesnt exibit any signs of trouble at idle.. when I step on the gas it hits a rough spot and starts bogging until I adjust my foot and let off the gas some.. then when coming to a stop itll just die "sometimes".. seems to have gotten a lot more frequent.. im getting the codes p1884 and p0102 (Maf)and the 1884 (that seems to confuse some), I did read a mechanic say "could be a sensor, Crank, IACV, ECP or TPS.. Im gonna throw a crank shaft position at it, after reading a lot of the similar stories on here.. thank you again and wish me luck :/
1. Before purchase, you can confirm that it is the CKP (crank position sensor) by pouring cold water on it when it acts up. The normal problem with it is failure to crank back up when engine is warm, kills spark, no codes thrown. If it dies when running, it is supposed to throw a code like 335 or 336.
2. You will notice on chart from automatic gearbox section of RAVE shop manual the 1884 code is good for lots of things. 1884 (18) is related to throttle position (signal by TPS). But it turns on the check engine light and the M&S lights, which you did not mention. Might not be TPS.
3. 1884(35) also turns on the M&S lights, it relates to vehicle speed which is computed from the ABS wheel sensors.
4. You may want to clean your IACV (it is not a sensor, it is a stepper motor that sets a precise vacuum leak to control engine idle speed ) and throttle body and MAF (when cold with cleaner made for the purpose).
5. You may want to watch engine with a code reading scanner, and see if the readings sent by the sensors you mention are changing and make sense. As example, if ECT (coolant sensor) say coolant is -40F, engine should be a block of ice. If IAT (incoming air temp) says it is 155 F it must be warm enough to work on truck. TPS % is also shown, you can have reader on and engine not running, slowly depress gas pedal and TPS reading will change, you want a smooth steady change, not numbers all over the place like a staticy volume control on an old radio.
6. Watch this gauge when throwing parts at something.
The most beautiful Island in all the world.. Staten Island :O) HAHAAAA.. im sorry I forgot to mention the "check engine light " being on.. im so used to it I think I will miss it some day.. the M&S light were poppin on for a bit months back but, at the time I had some voltage issues so I cleaned up some grounds and they shut off.. thanks again for your time.. i will be using your last post as a reference and will keep you posted.
i worked at autozone for 2+ years in commercial sales... id have a duralast pro battery and they are great, and the accounts loved em. brake pads where good is ceramic, rotors where ok. but what was universal, was the hatred of the electronics. most have decent warranties, but no decent accounts ever bought them unless it was last chance. some of them on the other hand where just reboxed oem parts or from the same manufacturers, youd have to open the box in teh store and check to see whats in them.
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Black 2000 Disco II
Factory brushguard
3" Terrafirma + s. damper
Terrafirma F/R Diff Guards
Terrafirma Fuel Tank Guard
D90 ujoint propshaft
Bosche Plat +4 + blu wires
Amsoil coolant/diffs/xfer
Shell Rotella + Filtermag
Rain X Repel wiper mod
DI CDL
285/75/R16 Guard Dog MT's