HEY GUYS...

i'm so excited to tell you all that i just purchased a 04 discover 4.6 engine with 50k miles for 2300 $.... engine is still in vehicle for compression, overheat and oil pressure tests.... but if all 3 pass ... its mine baby!!!!!

how hard is it to install a long block in a empty engine bay....i'm dont my LT1 like 6 times and i have the tools, but this is a disco... so it cant be easy


any tips from those that have done it on a D2

 

The hardest part will be lining up the bolts to bolt the flywheel to the tourqe converter.

 

I've done two now, spike is dead on. If the bell housing is not dead on, the TQ bolts will not mate. If you're replacing the TQ as well make sure you fill the new TQ before you install it.

Hood off
Radiator out
PS and AC swung off to the side and tied off
Relieve fuel pressure
Drain cooling system
Disconnect electrics to alternator and engine management
Use and angle bar on your hoist and lift the guy out

If you're anywhere near Denver I have everything you need to do this.

 

i'm in michigan ,near port huron ?

the engine is already out fomr the last round of rebuilds... so i just have to put this one in!! i'll remove the radiator but eveything else is done i guess.what can i leave on this engine? upper intake? exhaust manifolds?

 

Taking the manifolds off makes it easier to drop in. I tried it with them on and took them off because I got impatient. Add another for the bolts on the TQ..

I left the upper manifold on, but kept my original throttle body. I still had to take it by a local shop to have everything sorted with the computer.

 

The hardest part will be lining up the bolts to bolt the flywheel to the tourqe converter.[/QUOTE]

Is there any tricks anyone can think of to make this easier?

 

Not really that big of deal, one of your torque converter bolt holes will already be in position (lined up with hole in engine-housing, since it would have been lined up during removal). If the torque converter has spun or moved during cleaning or such, you will be able to spin the converter through the access hole on the bottom of the trans bell-housing. Also, make sure the converter is still engaged with the trans completely (push it inward/towards the trans, while turning the converter, until it is approximately an 1 1/2 inside the trans bell-housing), since they will slip out if bumped around or angled downward.

You have an access hole on each side of the engine mating surface/housing, each covered with a rubber plug, about the size of a silver dollar, remove the one on the starter side...I found this side the easiest to work on. Once the engine is in place, with alignment pins lined up on bell-housing and bolted, you can then start bolting up converter. Just be sure you feel no binding or resistance from converter and it spins freely while bolting up, keep reaching through the access hole with a screwdriver and spin it while tightening bell-housing bolts. If it's not in all the way, it will break the pump inside the trans and you will be very, very depressed.

Once the bell-housing is attached and tight, spin the engine over by the crank bolt (on harmonic balancer) until you see a flywheel bolt hole appear in the access hole, then spin the converter through the small round access hole with a screwdriver again to align a bolt hole on the converter. Then take your best 13mm six-point shocket and put a small piece of blue shop towel inside of it, about an 1/2 inch square, tap the converter bolt into the shocket, then place shocket on the end of a eight inch extention. Then, VERY, VERY carefully...insert the shocket with bolt through the engine housing hole. Be sure not to knock the bolt off the shocket...or you will pay hell trying to retreive it out of the bell-housing. If the piece of blue shop towel sticks to the bolt head, just reach in with some needle-nose pliers and pull it off. You do not want to leave any pieces of towel in the bell-housing, they could get sucked up into the converter front seal...and that would cause a leak.

Once you have the first one started and threaded in a few turns, spin the crank bolt again until the next converter bolt hole appears. DO NOT...REPEAT...DO NOT...TIGHTEN THE FIRST BOLT COMPLETELY...OR THE NEXT TWO...you will be sorry if you do. It is much better to get all four started, then go around one more time...tightening each one to spec. I usually have a can of spray paint available and paint them when tight...that way I don't lose track of where I'm at in the procedure. Granted, most stuff I work on has six or eight converter bolts...lol.

Reinstall rubber engine housing plug...if you can...mine were so oil soaked...that they grew two sizes once I pulled them out and would not go back in...no way, no how. So, I just bought new ones. Once you do this, move on to the rest of the engine installation.

Good luck.

Brian.

 

Would it be easier to pull the tranny from the one with the bad motor and then pull the 4.6 motor and tranny from donor Rover? Seems like less work but I haven't done it but plan to. D*

 

If you bolt the engine to the transmission withe the oil pan off, you have super easy access to the flywheel to torque converter holes where the back of the oil pan would be, and can just rotate the flywheel from the front crank bolt to line them up.

Alternatively, put some silicon/ATV on the bolt heads so they stay in the socket if you put them on through the access holes. You can rotate the torque converter if needed with your fingers through the bottom access hole on the transmission. When using the access holes I just use super long socket extensions (couple of feet). On alot of things in the engine, farther away is better. And wobble extensions are a big help. Harbor Freight has the wobble extensions cheap.