ignition lock fix
#22
08-27-2012, 05:54 PM
Excellent write up....TIP: use a dremel cutting wheel and cut a slot in the headless screws noted in the beginning. Remove the dash cluster and you will be able to use a shorty to remove the screws....easier than banging chisel and hammer and fingers...otherwise it rocks! If you dont' already have a dremel, run to the store and get one!!!
#23
11-15-2012, 02:11 AM
Attempted to fix my key turning problem two days ago. I Discovered that I could remove the two non-slotted screws with a pair of vice grips, thus saving me the expense and time of looking for a suitable replacement.
As it happened I ended up removing one screw when I had another idea I wanted to try. After removing the plugs and plastic shroud, I put a couple of blasts of W2 into the cylinder and tapped it a few times with my extra key blade inserted in it. I also gave a few gentle taps to the key blade itself.
After which the cylinder finally decided to turn, very easily too.
SO, no real investment save my time and a bit of W2 and my ignition is working again!
2000 Discovery II w/snorkel as the only aftermarket add on.
As it happened I ended up removing one screw when I had another idea I wanted to try. After removing the plugs and plastic shroud, I put a couple of blasts of W2 into the cylinder and tapped it a few times with my extra key blade inserted in it. I also gave a few gentle taps to the key blade itself.
After which the cylinder finally decided to turn, very easily too.
SO, no real investment save my time and a bit of W2 and my ignition is working again!
2000 Discovery II w/snorkel as the only aftermarket add on.
#24
12-10-2012, 01:10 PM
Overlanding
A Tip...
After you repair the ignition switch, have new keys made that are made from brass not steel. The original factory keys are steel and work like a file to slowly wear the lock's brass wafers down. I found a key supplier on EBay that offers plated brass keys. Brass on brass will last a lot longer that steel on brass.
After you repair the ignition switch, have new keys made that are made from brass not steel. The original factory keys are steel and work like a file to slowly wear the lock's brass wafers down. I found a key supplier on EBay that offers plated brass keys. Brass on brass will last a lot longer that steel on brass.
#25
12-27-2012, 11:52 AM
If you're going to grind down the wafers in the lock to make it work more smoothly, make sure that after you do it you take the key out, put it in the other way and check it. Since the key can go in either way, and is probably not worn or cut perfectly, you need to check and fit it both ways as well.
#28
07-27-2013, 10:17 AM
8th Gear
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Location: Gramling, SC (USA)
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I had one heck of a time trying to drill out that pin! It was not as easy as Arm&Hammer described (at least not for me). Advice would be to not drill too deep. You will eventually hit the lock barrel and you don't want to go too far into that. This is a great reference, good pics, and a real money saver.
Ron
Ron
#29
09-09-2013, 03:07 PM
It sounds like the rivet pin (picture 5 of the original post) has broken or departed the assembly somehow. As a result the cylinder wasn't all the way home and did not engage with the mechanism in the ignition housing that unlocks the column and actually turns the plastic ignition switch.
If you continue removing the ignition housing and remove the plastic ignition switch you'll see what I'm talking about. I would caution you to take the cylinder inside or put it in a ziplock bag or something before the tumblers and springs start disappearing.
If you continue removing the ignition housing and remove the plastic ignition switch you'll see what I'm talking about. I would caution you to take the cylinder inside or put it in a ziplock bag or something before the tumblers and springs start disappearing.
#30
09-10-2013, 07:21 AM
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Without the retaining screw, I would think the lock cylinder would float around a bit and cause issues.
In my case, it was duplicate keys, the original keys in my 98 D1 having long been gone. But when I disassembled the lock and took it to a locksmith, we found at least two springs that needed replacement. I also found the keys he made seemed to work well when the cylinder lock was outside of the switch, but when I put it inside the ignition switch it still jammed a few times until I lightly ground down some of the brass "teeth". Working fine ever since!
RON
In my case, it was duplicate keys, the original keys in my 98 D1 having long been gone. But when I disassembled the lock and took it to a locksmith, we found at least two springs that needed replacement. I also found the keys he made seemed to work well when the cylinder lock was outside of the switch, but when I put it inside the ignition switch it still jammed a few times until I lightly ground down some of the brass "teeth". Working fine ever since!
RON