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I'm always giving misfire advice. Need misfire advice

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  #21  
Old 04-21-2016, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by abran
I was mentioning flex plate because if it damaged at all it can skew the CPS readings, but you definitely need to rule out simple things first.

You can open up the inspection plate underneath and if you have a timing light point it on the plate and see if you see a bend or warble. Also any metal shavings or chips can mess up the readings as its magnetic.
Okay I can do that. I had the flex plate off overnight so I kept it on the kitchen table, to wife's consternation. So I know it is flat. And you may recall that I had one disintegrate. Recently. So I gave it a good visual inspection and saw nothing amiss. It is the same flex plate out of the 4.0. The only difference is that I removed the spacer ring on the inside because I have different flywheels. I'll open up the inspection hole and check it out.
 
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Old 04-21-2016, 10:41 AM
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Just a thought, your cam determines firing order, it could be possible Crower miss picked or mislabeled the cam they sent you and you now have an engine with a different firing sequence. If you've done all the other stuff you could pull your rocker covers and find your firing order and double check it against what it's supposed to be. From there, if it is incorrect it may be as easy as switching leads at the coil packs.
 
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Old 04-21-2016, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Charlie_V
Thanks for that last. I am really weak on things I haven't done and have no one local to ask.

I pulled the plugs for the swap and the compression test. Here are two representative ones.



!
Somewhere a tech is cursing me out for sharing this information, but here it goes. Remember, you need 4 basic parts to have an ignition cycle, Suck, Squeeze, Bang and Blow.

Swap plugs with the cylinder next to it. your misfire moves, its the plug.

That fails and misfire stays, swap wires with the opposite bank. (that way you have the same length wire to the spark plug. Misfire moves, its the wire.

That fails to work, its much harder to do on this as opposed to a single coil on plug setup and the next step would be to switch coils. If it moves, then its the coil pack itself.

That fails to work, you check fuel pressure. Not just cold, but also while hot. Pumps do tend to like dropping in pressure after they heat up (generally speaking). But its probably not a fuel problem because it would be across all cylinders.

That fails to work, you would move onto compression. Which you have already done.

That fails, you then look at the other factors ,engine management, vacuum leaks, coolant leaks, the flex plate you installed and was warped because you put it on with an impact gun (joke), uprated cam, etc etc, yada yada yada.

This is the diagnostic flow chart for a tech chasing a misfire.
 
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  #24  
Old 04-21-2016, 01:30 PM
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I'm wondering if the 4.0 ECU is to lean in closed loop?
But I've never heard of anyone else having this problem after the 4.6 swap.
 
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Old 04-21-2016, 03:52 PM
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Just curious, in a short sentence or two, what the heck's a flex plate anyway?
I've been nodding and pretending I knew the whole time, but I was faking it. I can't take the shame anymore. :-)
 
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Old 04-21-2016, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by jamieb
Just curious, in a short sentence or two, what the heck's a flex plate anyway?
I've been nodding and pretending I knew the whole time, but I was faking it. I can't take the shame anymore. :-)
From the back of the engine it is flywheel (weighted wheel with starter gear around it), then flex plate (thin disk of metal as large as the flywheel. Bolts to the flywheel), then torque converter (heavy mushroom looking part that contains transmission fluid. Bolted to the flex plate), then transmission.
 
  #27  
Old 04-21-2016, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by dgi 07
Somewhere a tech is cursing me out for sharing this information, but here it goes. Remember, you need 4 basic parts to have an ignition cycle, Suck, Squeeze, Bang and Blow.

Swap plugs with the cylinder next to it. your misfire moves, its the plug.

That fails and misfire stays, swap wires with the opposite bank. (that way you have the same length wire to the spark plug. Misfire moves, its the wire.

That fails to work, its much harder to do on this as opposed to a single coil on plug setup and the next step would be to switch coils. If it moves, then its the coil pack itself.

That fails to work, you check fuel pressure. Not just cold, but also while hot. Pumps do tend to like dropping in pressure after they heat up (generally speaking). But its probably not a fuel problem because it would be across all cylinders.

That fails to work, you would move onto compression. Which you have already done.

That fails, you then look at the other factors ,engine management, vacuum leaks, coolant leaks, the flex plate you installed and was warped because you put it on with an impact gun (joke), uprated cam, etc etc, yada yada yada.

This is the diagnostic flow chart for a tech chasing a misfire.
Thanks for that. I've been assuming everything was good because it all worked on the 4.0. But the 4.6 pistons are lower compression, so if something was marginal, it could cause a problem. I should have swapped the pistons, too.

But I am going to try the whole flow chart tonight. I'll report the results.
 
  #28  
Old 04-21-2016, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by kluber
Just a thought, your cam determines firing order, it could be possible Crower miss picked or mislabeled the cam they sent you and you now have an engine with a different firing sequence. If you've done all the other stuff you could pull your rocker covers and find your firing order and double check it against what it's supposed to be. From there, if it is incorrect it may be as easy as switching leads at the coil packs.
That cam. Yes it does indeed concern me. But the 229 is land Rover specific and it is actually another cam (Buick 300) with the nose machined for our timing gear. So they would have had to make the absolute wrong one, then machine it. I wish I'd just gotten a stock cam (but I may dispense that wish if it all works). I don't think it is the cam, but anything is possible.

I still have the original cam if it comes to it. But I'd have to be pretty discouraged to swap that old beater in.
 
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Old 04-21-2016, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Charlie_V
From the back of the engine it is flywheel (weighted wheel with starter gear around it), then flex plate (thin disk of metal as large as the flywheel. Bolts to the flywheel), then torque converter (heavy mushroom looking part that contains transmission fluid. Bolted to the flex plate), then transmission.
Thanks, the flex plate was the only one I was not familiar with. Never heard of one.
 
  #30  
Old 04-21-2016, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jamieb
Thanks, the flex plate was the only one I was not familiar with. Never heard of one.
No problem, Jamie. I knew you knew the other from other threads. Just describing its location.

I'm actually glad you asked because I found a picture of mine on the old engine.



I have to find the date on that picture. That may be the one that disintegrated. The empty holes are the bolt holes for the torque converter. Putting those bolts in with the engine on (only way I know to do it) is brain surgery through a hole at the back of the oil pan.




So that picture above is the new one, but prior to swap.
 

Last edited by Charlie_V; 04-21-2016 at 06:21 PM.


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