I'm always giving misfire advice. Need misfire advice
#21
I was mentioning flex plate because if it damaged at all it can skew the CPS readings, but you definitely need to rule out simple things first.
You can open up the inspection plate underneath and if you have a timing light point it on the plate and see if you see a bend or warble. Also any metal shavings or chips can mess up the readings as its magnetic.
You can open up the inspection plate underneath and if you have a timing light point it on the plate and see if you see a bend or warble. Also any metal shavings or chips can mess up the readings as its magnetic.
#22
Just a thought, your cam determines firing order, it could be possible Crower miss picked or mislabeled the cam they sent you and you now have an engine with a different firing sequence. If you've done all the other stuff you could pull your rocker covers and find your firing order and double check it against what it's supposed to be. From there, if it is incorrect it may be as easy as switching leads at the coil packs.
#23
Swap plugs with the cylinder next to it. your misfire moves, its the plug.
That fails and misfire stays, swap wires with the opposite bank. (that way you have the same length wire to the spark plug. Misfire moves, its the wire.
That fails to work, its much harder to do on this as opposed to a single coil on plug setup and the next step would be to switch coils. If it moves, then its the coil pack itself.
That fails to work, you check fuel pressure. Not just cold, but also while hot. Pumps do tend to like dropping in pressure after they heat up (generally speaking). But its probably not a fuel problem because it would be across all cylinders.
That fails to work, you would move onto compression. Which you have already done.
That fails, you then look at the other factors ,engine management, vacuum leaks, coolant leaks, the flex plate you installed and was warped because you put it on with an impact gun (joke), uprated cam, etc etc, yada yada yada.
This is the diagnostic flow chart for a tech chasing a misfire.
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DiscoBuckeye (04-21-2016)
#25
#26
From the back of the engine it is flywheel (weighted wheel with starter gear around it), then flex plate (thin disk of metal as large as the flywheel. Bolts to the flywheel), then torque converter (heavy mushroom looking part that contains transmission fluid. Bolted to the flex plate), then transmission.
#27
Somewhere a tech is cursing me out for sharing this information, but here it goes. Remember, you need 4 basic parts to have an ignition cycle, Suck, Squeeze, Bang and Blow.
Swap plugs with the cylinder next to it. your misfire moves, its the plug.
That fails and misfire stays, swap wires with the opposite bank. (that way you have the same length wire to the spark plug. Misfire moves, its the wire.
That fails to work, its much harder to do on this as opposed to a single coil on plug setup and the next step would be to switch coils. If it moves, then its the coil pack itself.
That fails to work, you check fuel pressure. Not just cold, but also while hot. Pumps do tend to like dropping in pressure after they heat up (generally speaking). But its probably not a fuel problem because it would be across all cylinders.
That fails to work, you would move onto compression. Which you have already done.
That fails, you then look at the other factors ,engine management, vacuum leaks, coolant leaks, the flex plate you installed and was warped because you put it on with an impact gun (joke), uprated cam, etc etc, yada yada yada.
This is the diagnostic flow chart for a tech chasing a misfire.
Swap plugs with the cylinder next to it. your misfire moves, its the plug.
That fails and misfire stays, swap wires with the opposite bank. (that way you have the same length wire to the spark plug. Misfire moves, its the wire.
That fails to work, its much harder to do on this as opposed to a single coil on plug setup and the next step would be to switch coils. If it moves, then its the coil pack itself.
That fails to work, you check fuel pressure. Not just cold, but also while hot. Pumps do tend to like dropping in pressure after they heat up (generally speaking). But its probably not a fuel problem because it would be across all cylinders.
That fails to work, you would move onto compression. Which you have already done.
That fails, you then look at the other factors ,engine management, vacuum leaks, coolant leaks, the flex plate you installed and was warped because you put it on with an impact gun (joke), uprated cam, etc etc, yada yada yada.
This is the diagnostic flow chart for a tech chasing a misfire.
But I am going to try the whole flow chart tonight. I'll report the results.
#28
Just a thought, your cam determines firing order, it could be possible Crower miss picked or mislabeled the cam they sent you and you now have an engine with a different firing sequence. If you've done all the other stuff you could pull your rocker covers and find your firing order and double check it against what it's supposed to be. From there, if it is incorrect it may be as easy as switching leads at the coil packs.
I still have the original cam if it comes to it. But I'd have to be pretty discouraged to swap that old beater in.
#29
From the back of the engine it is flywheel (weighted wheel with starter gear around it), then flex plate (thin disk of metal as large as the flywheel. Bolts to the flywheel), then torque converter (heavy mushroom looking part that contains transmission fluid. Bolted to the flex plate), then transmission.
#30
I'm actually glad you asked because I found a picture of mine on the old engine.
I have to find the date on that picture. That may be the one that disintegrated. The empty holes are the bolt holes for the torque converter. Putting those bolts in with the engine on (only way I know to do it) is brain surgery through a hole at the back of the oil pan.
So that picture above is the new one, but prior to swap.
Last edited by Charlie_V; 04-21-2016 at 06:21 PM.