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  #31  
Old 08-17-2010, 09:47 PM
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Spike: Yes, you are late for the party!

Gwhiz: I believe there is an adjustment nut for the shifter cable inside the center console, but it's been over a year since I had my console apart, so my memory is faded. Easier test to check the park noise rather than take apart the shifter and console: have someone start engine with their foot on the brake fully, crawl under the vehicle on the driver's side and look up at the side of the transmission. You will see where the shift cable attaches to the transmission linkage. Remove the cotter pin at the end of the cable, take the cable off the linkage, and manually move the linkage.
Make sure the person in the vehicle has his/her foot firmly on the brake while doing this!!!! This way you can put the transmission fully in park without having to worry if the cable is out of adjustment. If the noise stops, you know the cable isn't moving the lever enough and probably needs to be adjusted. If the noise doesn't change, time to look further.

The passenger O2 sensor connector actually is supposed to be behind the engine (just beneath the arch in the firewall). I believe (my shop light dies as I was looking at mine) that it clips into the lift bracket that is bolted to the rear of the passenger cylinder head.
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2000 Disco II 113,000 miles
Maintenance: 60K service with BG fluids, front drive shaft rebuild, Denso iridium plugs, front O2 sensors, Akebono ceramics front and rear with new rotors, belt tensioner and idlers, brake fluid and coolant flushed every two years- regardless of miles
Upgrades: OEM brushguard and driving lights, 04 CDL, extended rear axle breather, DI wiper arms, heated seat kit, grey painted chalkboard headliner
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  #32  
Old 08-17-2010, 09:52 PM
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Okay, well i am glad it is starting to look like a simple fix. I will have to fix the bolts on thursday though, as i have to work tomorrow, and i dont want to be sticking my hand up behind the radiator to get to the main pulley bolt while the engine is hot...i will have to do it one morning when i have time.

So, since i want my luxury car to sound good, does anyone know what is involved with a camshaft replacement? I can get a kit with all the lifters and gaskets for about $550 on ebay, and i have heard that i can do it with the engine in by removing the radiator, and moving the AC condensor?
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  #33  
Old 08-17-2010, 09:55 PM
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Gwhiz: You don't have to remove the oil pan after an engine purge with ATF or whatever flush chemical you use. The BG engine purges we do at work simply involve changing the oil and filter, adding the BG purge solution, let vehicle idle for determined length of time, drain oil until nothing more comes from drain plug, reinstall drain plug, change filter, and refill with engine oil.
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2000 Disco II 113,000 miles
Maintenance: 60K service with BG fluids, front drive shaft rebuild, Denso iridium plugs, front O2 sensors, Akebono ceramics front and rear with new rotors, belt tensioner and idlers, brake fluid and coolant flushed every two years- regardless of miles
Upgrades: OEM brushguard and driving lights, 04 CDL, extended rear axle breather, DI wiper arms, heated seat kit, grey painted chalkboard headliner
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  #34  
Old 08-17-2010, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordmorpheus View Post
Spike: Yes, you are late for the party!

Gwhiz: I believe there is an adjustment nut for the shifter cable inside the center console, but it's been over a year since I had my console apart, so my memory is faded. Easier test to check the park noise rather than take apart the shifter and console: have someone start engine with their foot on the brake fully, crawl under the vehicle on the driver's side and look up at the side of the transmission. You will see where the shift cable attaches to the transmission linkage. Remove the cotter pin at the end of the cable, take the cable off the linkage, and manually move the linkage.
Make sure the person in the vehicle has his/her foot firmly on the brake while doing this!!!! This way you can put the transmission fully in park without having to worry if the cable is out of adjustment. If the noise stops, you know the cable isn't moving the lever enough and probably needs to be adjusted. If the noise doesn't change, time to look further.
I think i am just going to try and make sure i get it all the way into park each time, and see if the noise comes back. I think i may just have been careless about not getting it fully into park each time... but i will definitely remember that if the noise continues!

Quote:
Originally Posted by lordmorpheus View Post
The passenger O2 sensor connector actually is supposed to be behind the engine (just beneath the arch in the firewall). I believe (my shop light dies as I was looking at mine) that it clips into the lift bracket that is bolted to the rear of the passenger cylinder head.
And thanks! i knew there had to be a way to attach it! So now i just have to replace the connector...i wish i had known that before, lol! it wasn't attached anywhere when i went to replace the sensor, so i assumed it was fine unattached...

On that note, does the drivers side cable attach anywhere? i haven't had a problem with it, but it isn't attached anywhere either.

Thank you!
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  #35  
Old 08-17-2010, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordmorpheus View Post
Gwhiz: You don't have to remove the oil pan after an engine purge with ATF or whatever flush chemical you use. The BG engine purges we do at work simply involve changing the oil and filter, adding the BG purge solution, let vehicle idle for determined length of time, drain oil until nothing more comes from drain plug, reinstall drain plug, change filter, and refill with engine oil.
Okay, thanks! I hadn't heard anyone mention that before, so i was skeptical. I just have to check my oil pressure when i can, and if it is low, then i will remove the pan to make sure the pickup is clear.
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  #36  
Old 08-17-2010, 10:01 PM
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You can move the flywheel using a pry bar, or BFS (big screwdriver) through the inspection holes in the back of your oil pan. They may be covered by a rubber grommet which just pulls out (and may be a b!tch to get back in). Insert pry bar or BFS through hole toward rear of vehicle, and pry against teeth of flywheel. Be careful not to damage the reluctor ring tabs on the engine side of the flywheel (they are what the crank sensor use as reference). If the engine is too hard to turn over, remove spark plugs to prevent compression.
__________________
2000 Disco II 113,000 miles
Maintenance: 60K service with BG fluids, front drive shaft rebuild, Denso iridium plugs, front O2 sensors, Akebono ceramics front and rear with new rotors, belt tensioner and idlers, brake fluid and coolant flushed every two years- regardless of miles
Upgrades: OEM brushguard and driving lights, 04 CDL, extended rear axle breather, DI wiper arms, heated seat kit, grey painted chalkboard headliner
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  #37  
Old 08-17-2010, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gwhiz101 View Post
And thanks! i knew there had to be a way to attach it! So now i just have to replace the connector...i wish i had known that before, lol! it wasn't attached anywhere when i went to replace the sensor, so i assumed it was fine unattached...

On that note, does the drivers side cable attach anywhere? i haven't had a problem with it, but it isn't attached anywhere either.

Thank you!
I got a flashlight to double check. Both the left and right front O2 sensor connections slip onto thin sheetmetal tabs that are bolted to the back of the engine at the bellhousing area.
__________________
2000 Disco II 113,000 miles
Maintenance: 60K service with BG fluids, front drive shaft rebuild, Denso iridium plugs, front O2 sensors, Akebono ceramics front and rear with new rotors, belt tensioner and idlers, brake fluid and coolant flushed every two years- regardless of miles
Upgrades: OEM brushguard and driving lights, 04 CDL, extended rear axle breather, DI wiper arms, heated seat kit, grey painted chalkboard headliner
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  #38  
Old 08-17-2010, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordmorpheus View Post
You can move the flywheel using a pry bar, or BFS (big screwdriver) through the inspection holes in the back of your oil pan. They may be covered by a rubber grommet which just pulls out (and may be a b!tch to get back in). Insert pry bar or BFS through hole toward rear of vehicle, and pry against teeth of flywheel. Be careful not to damage the reluctor ring tabs on the engine side of the flywheel (they are what the crank sensor use as reference). If the engine is too hard to turn over, remove spark plugs to prevent compression.
Okay, and when i look through the inspection port on the bottom of the bellhousing, it seemed like the torque convertor bolts are located further towards the center than the driver side hole allows you to see? Do i have to get up to the passenger side hole, or will i be able to get at them from the drivers side?
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  #39  
Old 08-17-2010, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordmorpheus View Post
I got a flashlight to double check. Both the left and right front O2 sensor connections slip onto thin sheetmetal tabs that are bolted to the back of the engine at the bellhousing area.
Thank you!
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  #40  
Old 08-17-2010, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gwhiz101 View Post
Okay, and when i look through the inspection port on the bottom of the bellhousing, it seemed like the torque convertor bolts are located further towards the center than the driver side hole allows you to see? Do i have to get up to the passenger side hole, or will i be able to get at them from the drivers side?
Geez, now you're really testing my memory!
I remember I accessed my torque converter bolts from the passenger hole. A quick check in my garage confirms this. The hole in the passenger side is set further away from the center of the flywheel.

(It's nice to have an engine block and flywheel in my garage for reference!)

Edit: based on what you said, this makes no sense, but I remember clearly now tightening the converter bolts through the passenger opening.
__________________
2000 Disco II 113,000 miles
Maintenance: 60K service with BG fluids, front drive shaft rebuild, Denso iridium plugs, front O2 sensors, Akebono ceramics front and rear with new rotors, belt tensioner and idlers, brake fluid and coolant flushed every two years- regardless of miles
Upgrades: OEM brushguard and driving lights, 04 CDL, extended rear axle breather, DI wiper arms, heated seat kit, grey painted chalkboard headliner

Last edited by lordmorpheus; 08-17-2010 at 10:30 PM.
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Old 08-17-2010, 10:28 PM
 
 
 
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dakota, engine, forum, high, hum, land, making, noise, park, rover, rpm, rpms, slipping, v8, vibration


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