If you follow the proper bleed procedure, the coolant will flow in the other direction, pushing up from the back.

The trouble your way will cause is extended warm up times for the engine. It will stay in open loop longer and eventually carbon up the heads. Might even damage the cats.

 

Ok these are problems that u COULD have. Yet these are the precise reasons everyone says could happen. I could also get hit by a bus tomorrow but these are not things I'm worried about at this point. These poor peoe hear these things and don't attempt to fix the problem. It could make the truck run a little rich until it gets up to operating temps but hey if ur trucks parked over a free possible fix them why should we discourage them from trying to be able to enjoy there car. My fix is not a fix to the real problem and I'm not stating it is. It simply relieves the symtoms from the problem. The t stat still stays functional but doesn't trap air. All of us on his forum aren't here to keep the dealerships with work. I know I just wNt my vehicle to run without worry. That's all I'm here to try to help these people. The mods I've done are very simple and I'll get pics posted tonight.

 

What I am saying is that your problem is from trapped air. If it is from a leaky head gasket, you are pushing combustion gasses into the coolant system. So, either you are not bleeding it right the first time, you are not keeping the reservoir full, or you are pushing gas in. If either of the last 2 is correct, you are going to have a major overheat, which WILL kill the engine.

I haven't heard anyone suggest going to a dealer. Most shops can do the gasket swap for $1500, and you can do it yourself over a weekend for under $500 or less, depending on how many tools you have to buy.

I am just stating the harm that IS being done to the truck if you don't fix it properly and keep running it. Not knocking what you have done, but it is like running with no t-stat. If someone has trapped air from not bleeding properly, this will just kill the valvetrain from running too cold. It will kill it, not "could".

The only maybe I posted was cats. If are inhaling combustion gasses, it will eventually start leaking coolant into the cylinder. This WILL kill the cats.

Point is, get it fixed right. It doesn't take $4K to fix

 

I won't argue about this fix. I will simply state the reasons I came to with doing this. For 1 it's free and it can make your truck drivable without big problems. It may take a little longer to warm up. For us guys that have overheating rovers this is a godsend. I can assure u that I've ran 160degree t stats in my racecar for years and it made the engine run cooler and was proven to make more power on the dyno. A cool motor is less prone to detonation making it able to run less octane. Heat is what makes a car ping if the the gas doesn't have premium octane. A properly working ignition system will not allow unburned fuel to enter the cats. Thus no cat damage. I've got a couple questions about ur carbon buildup. How can u verify this statement without allowing ur rover to run cold for long periods of time. Carbon buildup is from a non properly functioning ignition. Or crappy fuel and can be easily fixed wih a seafoam treatment that costs 20 bux once a year. Here is my las question. How the heck is a cold running engine going to hurt your valvetrain? I'm extremely familiar with valve train stability and longevity we have extensively tested different springs at different temp levels on a spintron machine in order to get my racecar to make peak power at 8k rpms. I am very familiar with how a valvetrain works so tread carefully with your answers. I think your a bit confused about the fact that the t stat still functions and opens at the correct operating temps. It just doest allow for air to be trapped. I am by no means saying this is a permanent fix. Only trying to allow people to enjoy there cars. We all love these things and I just cringe hearing all these people telling these guys to park their car immediatly if it overhears and swap out the headgaskets or check for a cracked block when the issue can be addressed for zero dollars. I read so many posts on other forums that said not to do this and I honestly stumbled upon the fix after being frustated with this overheating issue. I hate the thought of one person parking their car a trying to save money for the 2k fix because of posters crying doom and gloom if u don't have it professionally fixed. These trucks are going for 5k now and I know I'm not gonna throw 2k at it to fix and this truck is my baby. Like I said I don't wanna argue about this stuff but some of the statement are obviously unable to be proven and scares people from trying something. The trucks worth nothing if u can't enjoy it. I want people to enjoy their vehicles. That's all. Cheers guys.

 

Bravo Flyin, bravo!

 

I think this fix makes a lot of sense. The question then becomes, does constantly high temps cause the head gasket failure or the other way around? If the higher running temps contribute to the headgasket failure, then maybe this wouldn't be a bad idea on an engine without current issues. What do you think flyin?

 

I would not do this mod on anything that is functioning properly. I believe the high pressures are only there when an issue like a hg leak is present. The pressure is fine and causes no issues as long as there isn't added pressures from exhaust gases getting into the system. If it isn't broke I wouldn't touch it. Cheers

 

I believe the hg issue is from and inferior head gasket itself. I can't see the heads warping or the deck of the block warping at normal operating temps. I surely can see this if the truck is ran hot multiple times but still unlikely because I've seen alot of racecars blow up with crank failures and block decks or heads were undamaged. Does lr offer a hg other than the one put onthe truck originally. Do they offer a aftermarket better hg? I don't know and won't till this spring when I try the hg repair.

 

Cold operating temps cause the ECu to go into an open loop state, thus overfueling and causing carbon build up. If you have old O2's, this can happen too. You get a sooty pipe. It will also clog the cats and hurt your valves. 96 and up have carbon cutters on the valves, but that doesn't mean they can't be damaged.

You speak of your race car and also a $2K fix at the same time. If you are an engine guy, you know it can be fixed for under $500.

Again, I am not knocking you for what you have done, I am merely pointing out the possible negatives to what you have done for people who may read your thread and just try it. You just did it, it hasn't been proven. The proven fix is to replace the head gaskets.

The gaskets fail because of the factory gasket material. Updated gaskets will last.

 

I also believe most fixes are with the hg issue. There is no way a dealer is going to charge u 500 bux to do a hg swap. It will be in the 2k range. I wouldn't even touch my truck if they did it for 500bux. If u do it yourself it won't even cost 500. Unless lr is raping people on gasket sets. U seem to know alot about this stuff. So enlighten me. What's a carbon cutter? I want one. It's in open loop a touch longer with this mod and could most likely be lessended if u could find a sweet spot in nodding the t stat so it's opened up just enough to allow air thru. I simply made sure it wasn't going to overheat by doing the 4 sides. It gets up to operating temp. Just takes a bit longer and won't damage anything but gas mileage till it does. And if u bought this truck for gas mileage ur a douche anyway. Cheers guys.