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M and S flash but gear selection not illuminated.

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  #21  
Old 06-24-2016, 05:31 PM
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Sure, as long as you don't break them. Depends on which of the two versions of the switch you have too.

Take a look at this old post of mine about removing and replacing the XYZ. It might make doing the job easier for you.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...50/#post491521
 
  #22  
Old 06-24-2016, 05:45 PM
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Did you use the 4MM X 15MM or 12MM for the bolts?
 
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Old 06-24-2016, 06:48 PM
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I just checked my spare and the machine screws are 4x16mm with 4mm Nylocs, all stainless.
 
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  #24  
Old 06-24-2016, 08:34 PM
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For the life of me I cant get the cable tight on the lock down bolt. I have it lined up like every picture on the web but for some reason it wont tighten down. Anymore pressure and I'm going to snap the bolt
 
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Old 06-24-2016, 09:12 PM
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I figured it out. M & S still flashing Does the code need to be cleared or would it have turned off on its own?
 
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Old 06-25-2016, 01:53 AM
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From the RAVE - "After the detection of a fault, the effects remain active for the remainder of the drive cycle. In subsequent drive cycles, as soon as the EAT ECU diagnoses the fault is no longer present, it resumes normal control of the gearbox."

So no, the fault does not need to be cleared. The system resets with each drive cycle.
 
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  #27  
Old 06-25-2016, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by mln01
From the RAVE - "After the detection of a fault, the effects remain active for the remainder of the drive cycle. In subsequent drive cycles, as soon as the EAT ECU diagnoses the fault is no longer present, it resumes normal control of the gearbox."

So no, the fault does not need to be cleared. The system resets with each drive cycle.
That truly breaks my heart.
 
  #28  
Old 06-25-2016, 11:26 AM
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Sorry man. Reality sometimes sucks. But just remember what you paid for the truck. On the other hand you sometimes get what you pay for.
 
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Old 06-26-2016, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by mln01
Sorry man. Reality sometimes sucks. But just remember what you paid for the truck. On the other hand you sometimes get what you pay for.
It does but I'm resilient. I just hope it really is the XYZ. I cleaned it up very well.
 
  #30  
Old 06-26-2016, 07:38 AM
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So here is my plan today. Please provide input.
When I first got our D2 I noticed that if my hand was on the auto shift lever and then I put my foot on the brake, I could feel a noticeable clunk in the shifter handle. Since my M & S light flash I have not felt that anymore.
I'm guessing that is the interlock solenoid engaging or disengaging.
After some reading this morning, I read on the Australian board that a guy was having my same issue I'm having and it turned out to be just the connector to the solenoid needed cleaned. Has anyone had issues with the Interlock Solenoid before?
It looks to be very close to the shift lever in the RAVE but, most talk about getting to it from under the D2 and reaching about the trans. Any input one how you got to it would be much appreciated.

From the RAVE
Selector lever interlock (where fitted)
The interlock solenoid on the selector lever is de-energised unless the foot brake is applied while the ignition is on. While de-energised, the interlock solenoid allows the selector lever to move through the range unless P is selected. On entering the P position, the interlock solenoid engages a latch which locks the selector lever. When the ignition is on and the foot brake is applied, the BCU energises the interlock solenoid, which disengages the latch and allows the selector lever to be moved out of P.
 


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