Short history: I was in a minor accident where the front driver-side fender was damaged. Got it fixed and it drove fine for 3 days. Then I noticed the engine was over-heating while I was at a drive-through the idle was rough. My check engine light is steadily on at idle and flashes at anything above idle. The engine now over-heats in less than a miles' driving, it runs very rough with noticeable power loss, and the exhaust smells like fire-works smoke. It also seems to be shifting late in the upper gears.

I have read that many of these point to the MAF sensor going bad. I would give you the codes that it's throwing out but it overheats before I can get it anywhere significant.

I disconnected the MAF sensor and drove around. As far as I can tell, there are no differences in symptoms or performance. Still over-heats in less than a mile, still runs sluggish, exhaust still smells like sulfur.

99 D2 140k miles.


What do you all think?


EDIT: Over-heating no longer a problem and is not related to the remaining problems.

 

I think that you overheated and cooked your engine, I hopeI'm wrong though. What did you do to fix the overheating problem? How hot did it get? I sounds to me like the roughengine started when you overheated it - I would look into that.I doubt it's the MAF unless they took it off to fix the fender and damaged it somehow, or it was damaged in the accident.

 

It was a gasket leak on the bottom of the throttle body and my water pump seems to be leaking as well, though not as bad. But it was just low on coolant. Filled it up and temp stays where it should.

It got hot enough for the red light to come on, then I pull over and wait it out. I hope you're wrong about the engine too :P. But it runs well enough to go out on a date or something. I can just feel more of a shudder at lower rpm's and it sounds as if i slapped on a cheapo exhaust kit.

 

Never drive with a flashing check engine light. It means you are doing damage. You need to get all of your leaks fixed ASAP. these engines are an old design, but they are aluminum blocks and heads and do not stand up to overheating at all. You can dop a liner and then your engine is toast.

Go to an Autozone and have them read the codes for the check engine light. It is the only way we can help. Write down the codes and post them on here. We can tell you what it is from there.

Might have bent a valve, causing the loss of power and shudder, and the echaust may have just blown a manifold gasket or cracked a manifold. Get the codes and get back...

Cheers

 

Autozone may let you rent a OBD II reader (pay for it, then get your money back when returned) I'm not sure.
You can buy a code reader fairly cheap that should work fine. Try harbor freight for the cheap stuff.

 

If your exhaust smeels that bad then you need to swich gas stations. Bad gas will make your exhaust smell, cause rough idle and loss of power.
So that is where I would start. It is the easiest place to start.
AutoZone will read your codes for free.

 

Sounds like he shouldn't be driving it anywhere.

 

Get the codes read and, bleed all the air out of your engine, check the levelk every morning prior to starting your engine, make the cool level is all the way up to the cap, not the full line.
Get back to us with the fault codes.

 

I should have the codes within an hour. Thanks for your help.

 

OK just had the codes scanned at my local LR dealer.


p0102: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
p0112: Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input
p0300: Random Misfire Detected
p0305: Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected


They say I need a new MAFS, a couple if not all new wires, and that the spark plugs in there are the incorrect type.

Any advice besides the obvious new MAF sensor?