Ok guys, Here is my how to instructions for changing your motor mounts on a LAnd Rover Discovery II 2004. I think it should apply to most models. This is the first time i ever did this. My skills are limited what i read and learn threw this forum. It was easy and strait forward but location of one nut took hours. They say 4 to 5 hours at the dealer and they sell the mounts for $140.00 per mount. You need two. I got mine from a Indy rover place in miami for $40.00 each and did it myself so i saved bigtime. Give your self a day to do. It will take a half day if you do better with the one nut that only has access with a open end wrench and small plyers. "PLEASE BE VERY CARFULL WITH YOUR FINGERS" ...YOU HAVE A ENGINE LIFTED ABOVER YOUR FINGERS AND NEED TO PLACE THESE MOUNTS BELOW THIS LIFTED ENGINE" TRUST NOTHING.. TAKE YOUR TIME..

My step one was to get the mounts.

I got them at Miami Rovers as i do most of my parts.

Next was to lift truck up on floor jacks. i lifted the truck under the front diff and slid a floor jack under the passenger side. I then put the jack under the drivers side aand then place one also. I put the emergency brake on and wood chocks behind the rear wheels

The tools you will need are pictured here. I used a combination of 1/2" and 3/8" sockets. The 1/2" was so i could use a breaker bar to loosen the nuts and then 3/8" to remove them as it was easier to get around. You will need the attachments i pictured so you can angle them in place. It would help by using a break free penitrator the night before to help loosen the nuts. The open end wrench and small plyers are used for the top nut on the drivers side mount. It's the only tools that would fit in that space and you can only get 1" turns. It was a big pain in the *** so do this mount last.

Step 2:Position a floor jack underneith the sump pump with 5 2"X4" pieces. I only lifted the car about 4 inches as i was laying on moving blanket and i didnt want to reach to get to the mount. It may take less depending on how much you lift the truck. My lifting point was between the cross member and the steering bar. if you try to jack the engine back on the sump you wont be able to get it high enough to get the mounts out. I didnt screw the 2"X4" blocks together as i didnt want them to start tilting as i jacked up the engine.

Step 3: Pasenger side mount. loosen the two nuts on the mount. I used 3"/8" on the top nut and 1"/2" on the bottom nut as i had more room. For the top nut i attached a long socket and expension to get more leverage for the 3"/8" socket set like a breaker bar. You will need short 18mm socket for the top nuts and 18mm long sockets for the bottom nuts as the screw from the motor mount sticks out further.

Step 4: After you get the nuts off take them and run them over the new mount screws a couple time so you will be able to finger tighten then which will help get them back on. I didnt take the nuts off the drivers side when i did the passenger side. Start jacking the engine untill you see the mount comming off. It takes a bit for it to move. When it clears and you will have to check with each crank of the jack, lift the mount up and off. " BE CARFULL WITH WHERE YOU FINGERS ARE". Tighten the top nut first as there is a dowel with the screw and need to be in the bracket as well a heat shield. Hand tighten so the dowel is in the right place and then slowly lower the engine... Slowly... untill the bottom screw lowers them the hole on the bracket. Make sure the mount looks like it's sitting correctly and then tighten the nuts. I used hand tightening as what i thought they where when i got them off. You can use a torq wrench if you can get it in the space. Ok one done...

Step 4: I used 1"/2" on the bottom nut on the drivers side bottom nut. You will use the long sockets on the bottom bolts again. The top nut, well... a socket fits in there but no way to get a socket wrench in there. I guess i could of taken the mount off the cylinder . There is 4 bolts that hold the mount to the engine but i was worried that i would not be able to line back up with the limited tools i have at my house and i was doing myself. You will see by one of my attached pictures the 12 point wrench with the other end open sticking out of the upper mount to turn the nut. I finally figured out that once you get the nut loose you can go to the top of the engine, remove the air to intake pipe and you will have access to the mount from the top. i got the open end wrench in there once but it took forever to get a 1 inch turn. I finally figured out tha with small plyers you can get the nut off that way. Roughs up the nut a bit but i took that nut and put on the bottom . After you have nuts off, jack engine untill you can lift mount up and off. this seemed a little harder i dont know why. When you put this mount on you will have to lock it in place as the dowel is on the top. This is why running the nuts over the mount screws will help you here. Tighten by hand and a couple turns with the plyers and it should be good enough to lower. Make sure the dowel is in before you lower it.

Step 5: I call this step 5 as i had to get the engine over a bit to the passenger side to make the mounts screw go in the hole. i also did have the bottom nut on the passenger side but at the bottom to give me more engine lift height. 5 used ,pictured with my tools, a small crow bar to pry the mount as it was lowered so the screw went in the bracket hole. You will see when you are at this point as the mount screw and bracket hole do not line up. About a inch off. Just release the jack very slowly as you pry with the mount to get the bottom screw threw. There you are done.

Dont forget to hit the fuel shut off on the fire wall passenger side as mine had somehow shut off durring this process. If you have any question shoot me a email and i would be happy to help you out.

Have fun.... Chris

 

here are the rest of the pictures.

 

Here are the rest of the picks. take not on the one picture you can see the open end 12 point wrench sticking out from the mount bracket.

 

NICE WRITE UP, I'm not sure I would have lifted the motor by jacking on the sump, but what works , works. What were the signs that you needed new mounts.....was the motor visibly moving too much or were you tracking down a vibration ?

 

so what is the reason for a motor mounts? Is your old one worn?

 

I had a vibration at 40 to 50 and at 70. i found out that the truck had had some front end damage and took it to land Rover to put up on a lift and check it out. I have the drivers side cat that was pushed against the frame . They pointed out that the drivers side mount was sheared in two as you can see from the photo. Seeing as i was going to replace one i might as well do both. They where $40.00 a piece and my time so it saved me a boat load of money and i got a chance to check out other things below like a o2 sensor plug thats not mounted correctly and a flywheel inspection plug that was alo missing. Got to tighen up sump drain pan bolts and clean up some loose wires. I also am going to do a 2" lift soon so i got to see what i am in for. I am also chasing down a annoying exhaust leak so having the engine stable is a start. Anyway , good learning experiance. I hope the info helps someone else. I also have what looks to be 1 good mount i took off the passenger side. if anyone needs it it's free if you pay shipping. Looked good to me.

Thanks Chris

 

The rave tells you to jack at that point . I was just following what the book said. I also asked a land rover tech and he said thats what they do. The soft 2"X4" protects from the jack and distributes the weight.

Thanks Chris

 

I guess I've never had cause to read that part of the manual....I know our trucks are tough, and my oil pan is solid 'cuz it's been off....my "fear " comes from working on other vehicles where the pans were so thin the weight of the engine would crush them.
I too have a vibration @ 50mph.....youv'e got me wondering....

 

I thought the same but the pan is pretty thick as well as the engine is aluminum . i remember that when i jacked the engine up it felt pretty light for a engine. I was pretty amazed. If you look at the mounts you could see wher the one mount was seperated at wher the metal plate is on the one side. Get under with flash light and really look at them. I can tell you that even with a bent rim i feel almost no vibration at all except for the random vibration from that bent rim. I have no shake at al anymore.

I hope this helps, Chris

 

Mike or spike can we add this to the how to sticky?