the best way I found to add new fluids was using one of these:
RL Flo-Master 1 gal. Economy Sprayer-1401P at The Home Depot .
you simply remove the spray tip you fill it up and pump it up while your standing.
there is no squeezing bottles (because it holds a gal.) nothing running down your arm pit.
the long wand comes in particularly handy when filling the transfer case (up and over from the rear).
take it for what it's worth

 

X2 on the 1 gallon pumper.

I changed my t-case and diff oil with RP 75-140 several months back and checked my local lowes for that type pump in the 1 gal size, they didn't have it so I bought one of the 1 pump 1 shot cheapos for quart bottles from walmart marine section and it was a job... took forever. Also the tube they supplied with it would not reach the bottom of the tall RP quart bottles. I was in lowes a few days later and there it was...$10.
It was probably there all along and I just overlooked it.

 

Nifty. Getting one for the gear oil for sure.

 

So, on the trans, you did fill it till it ran out filler hole, screw the fill plug back in just snug, start it, shift through all the gears, remove the fill plug with engine running and fill again till fluid ran out of filler hole, then put the plug back in while the engine is still running and tighten? yes?

 

exactly

 

Not sure about driveshaft bolts/locknuts but you can probably match those up at lowes or a hardware store with grade 5 fine thread? I think grade 5?

and other nut/bolts and small hard to find pieces and parts rovahfarm carries alot of that if you need stuff later.

RovahFarm for all your new Land Rover Parts and Accessories

and if you check your front hubs in the future and need new ones there is an ebay seller that has those for $100 each with free shipping and a 2 year warranty. You'll have to jack it up and grab the tire top and bottom and try to shake back and forth pushing in at top and out at bottom and vice versa to see if any play.

Wheel Bearing Hub Front Driver or Passenger for Land Rover Discovery Series II | eBay

Just a heads up on that since they do go bad and not too long ago you had to pay $300 each for aftermarket ones now they are selling for a much better price.

 

I did exactly that. I squeezed about 4 quarts in there to begin. Actually a bit much, I used one of those pump up and down pumps and had to jam the end in the hole. So much that I plugged the hole. Got my 4 quarts in, pulled the hose and it poured out. Because I had jammed the hose end in, it actually plugged the hole so I filled past where I would have.

Quickly screwed the plug in, that's where I got most of in on me. Started engine, cycled gears, engine running got about another 1.5 quarts in. 2mm bead of running fluid, plugged tight.

Granted I didn't do that process three times.

Do you think the odd noises I heard were suspicious? And how about the swarf in the filter. I mean, red paint chips?

 

"Do you think the odd noises I heard were suspicious? And how about the swarf in the filter. I mean, red paint chips?"

Can't help you on that???

 

all that stuff has been in the tranny from day one, the filter just did its job.
that is not bad for a tranny that hasn't been open in 10 + years.


the tab on you drive shaft is a balance weight.


you can get the nuts at Lowes and I suggest you do it right away, you should never reuse a nylock nut.
they are a single use fasten once a bolt has been backed out of the nylon insert you can not guarantee that it will not back out again.

 

I did wonder. It's better to think that the filter has never been changed than the tranny is eating itself.

I'll Defo swap the nylocks out.

So, rained heavy tonight. Roof leaked as expected. (First real rain since purchase) SES light on in addition to the 3A's. Nice to have most of the yellow lights lit at once. I Have a feeling that the water has something to do with it on the passenger side. Although I check codes and have 1412 and 1415. Vac tubes. On my list of things to do.