Need to Swap a Transfer case, few pointers please...
#21
08-16-2015, 06:45 AM
Baja
Do a find on the page for RTC3890G
$15.95
#22
08-16-2015, 06:48 AM
Baja
For sake of discussion let's say that the shaft or spline that protrudes from the trans is 6" long.
In order to get the transfer case mated to the trans, you need to jack up the T case 6.5" away from the trans at a perfectly horizontal position then slide the jack/t case towards the trans to get the shaft/spline to line up and enter the ring gear inside the t case. If you go at an angle it will not go into the gear. That is why they suggest to fab a bracket that bolts onto the t case and allows you to control it better.
But, if you remove the gear inside the t case, you can get the shaft inserted at an angle, then straighten up and bolt to the trans. After they are mated you then insert the gear from the rear of the T case onto the shaft of the trans.
In order to get the transfer case mated to the trans, you need to jack up the T case 6.5" away from the trans at a perfectly horizontal position then slide the jack/t case towards the trans to get the shaft/spline to line up and enter the ring gear inside the t case. If you go at an angle it will not go into the gear. That is why they suggest to fab a bracket that bolts onto the t case and allows you to control it better.
But, if you remove the gear inside the t case, you can get the shaft inserted at an angle, then straighten up and bolt to the trans. After they are mated you then insert the gear from the rear of the T case onto the shaft of the trans.
Does that create any possible issues with the front seal t.case to the transmission?
#23
08-16-2015, 08:55 AM
My friend and I did it on our backs sans jack, we just bench pressed it up, then one got it aligned while the other bolted it up.
I was amazed at how easy it was.
#24
08-16-2015, 10:07 AM
#25
08-16-2015, 10:34 AM
@antichrist - VERY nice link. Lots of useful stuff on that page. I'll get the gasket set.
As I get into this, it looks like not too bad a job - most worrisome are the exhaust studs on the manifolds, my truck has almost no rust, but those guys look stubborn.
Also - has anyone RnR'd a T-case? I was thinking my current howling/grinding one might be rebuildable, but have no clue as to what that'd cost or if it would be worth it.
This disco is the 6th one I've owned, and apart from the Chawton Green 2004 of my dreams, is a keeper. thus, parts on hand = me sleeping better at night.
Based on needs for gasket, I'm washing and tearing down today, will wait for gaskets and probably take apart old case to see how FUBAR'd it is.
As I get into this, it looks like not too bad a job - most worrisome are the exhaust studs on the manifolds, my truck has almost no rust, but those guys look stubborn.
Also - has anyone RnR'd a T-case? I was thinking my current howling/grinding one might be rebuildable, but have no clue as to what that'd cost or if it would be worth it.
This disco is the 6th one I've owned, and apart from the Chawton Green 2004 of my dreams, is a keeper. thus, parts on hand = me sleeping better at night.
Based on needs for gasket, I'm washing and tearing down today, will wait for gaskets and probably take apart old case to see how FUBAR'd it is.
#26
08-16-2015, 11:47 AM
Baja
It didn't for me. You still need to respect the seal, but there is wiggle room regarding seal circumference and transmission shaft.
My friend and I did it on our backs sans jack, we just bench pressed it up, then one got it aligned while the other bolted it up.
I was amazed at how easy it was.
My friend and I did it on our backs sans jack, we just bench pressed it up, then one got it aligned while the other bolted it up.
I was amazed at how easy it was.
I think my heavy duty 'bench pressing' days have long gone
and I now opt for the easy way out of most problems.
#27
08-17-2015, 12:31 PM
-Don't forget to get new exhaust gaskets because it needs to be removed. It also might be a good idea to buy new studs and nuts for the y-pipe to manifold connection. They tend to snap off if they are rusted on and haven't been removed for years and years.
(you should need 3 exhaust gaskets total. The links below are just showing gaskets and studs you need. They might be cheaper somewhere else)
A)stud and gasket kit Land Rover Exhaust Manifold Stud Kit | Land Rover Exhaust System Parts
B)Muffler to tail pipe gasket Gasket Muffler To Tailpipe D2 (ESR3737 Same Fit As Part # ESR3737 ) - Land Rover gaskets and seals from Atlantic British
-You will no doubt run into something that will call for thread locker so pick up a small bottle. A little goes a long way.
-You really should use new nyloc nuts for your drive shafts when reinstalling and you should mark how the drive shaft is installed before removing if you are reconnecting it to the same flange.
A)Drive Shaft Nuts Driveshaft Nut : Front Driveshaft Nut
-Also, with the transfer case removed this will mean your parking brake and drive shafts will be disconnected. No parking brake + No Drive Shafts = Free Rolling Truck. Make sure you have the truck jacked up and secured so it can't roll, move, or kill you. Rovers seem like tame creatures but they will turn and bite you if you aren't paying attention. When they say people put there Blood, Sweat, and Tears into these trucks, they mean it. I've lost my fair share of each over the years.
(you should need 3 exhaust gaskets total. The links below are just showing gaskets and studs you need. They might be cheaper somewhere else)
A)stud and gasket kit Land Rover Exhaust Manifold Stud Kit | Land Rover Exhaust System Parts
B)Muffler to tail pipe gasket Gasket Muffler To Tailpipe D2 (ESR3737 Same Fit As Part # ESR3737 ) - Land Rover gaskets and seals from Atlantic British
-You will no doubt run into something that will call for thread locker so pick up a small bottle. A little goes a long way.
-You really should use new nyloc nuts for your drive shafts when reinstalling and you should mark how the drive shaft is installed before removing if you are reconnecting it to the same flange.
A)Drive Shaft Nuts Driveshaft Nut : Front Driveshaft Nut
-Also, with the transfer case removed this will mean your parking brake and drive shafts will be disconnected. No parking brake + No Drive Shafts = Free Rolling Truck. Make sure you have the truck jacked up and secured so it can't roll, move, or kill you. Rovers seem like tame creatures but they will turn and bite you if you aren't paying attention. When they say people put there Blood, Sweat, and Tears into these trucks, they mean it. I've lost my fair share of each over the years.
Last edited by R0VERGUY; 08-17-2015 at 12:48 PM.
#28
08-21-2015, 02:59 PM
Ok,
Gaskets are on order, and I've been leisurely attacking this job. Got rear driveshaft off today, appears that the rubber flex plate is SHOT, so I've got another on order.
When I drained the T-case, it looked like two Transformers had sex in it. Chunks of metal, slivers of metal, chunks of slivers of metal. The drain plug with the magnet looked like a metal mohawk. So...mystery solved for the time being. Anyone recommend a good gear oil for the donor T-case?
Planning on replacing all the bolts on the driveshafts anyway, my local Ace has a fantastic automotive bolt section, and the new ones are all getting anti-seize.
Re: exhaust - I am just sawing the pipe off under the truck and welding it back. I'm good with a welder and my exhaust studs up in the engine just look like trouble. I see no point in making this harder. Couple 6013 rods and a beer and it's done.
Opinions on flex-disc? Good/bad/ugly brand?
And yes, this truck is on jack stands, in the carport, on flat level concrete. I've had some scares over the years with working on cars, lessons learned.
Gaskets are on order, and I've been leisurely attacking this job. Got rear driveshaft off today, appears that the rubber flex plate is SHOT, so I've got another on order.
When I drained the T-case, it looked like two Transformers had sex in it. Chunks of metal, slivers of metal, chunks of slivers of metal. The drain plug with the magnet looked like a metal mohawk. So...mystery solved for the time being. Anyone recommend a good gear oil for the donor T-case?
Planning on replacing all the bolts on the driveshafts anyway, my local Ace has a fantastic automotive bolt section, and the new ones are all getting anti-seize.
Re: exhaust - I am just sawing the pipe off under the truck and welding it back. I'm good with a welder and my exhaust studs up in the engine just look like trouble. I see no point in making this harder. Couple 6013 rods and a beer and it's done.
Opinions on flex-disc? Good/bad/ugly brand?
And yes, this truck is on jack stands, in the carport, on flat level concrete. I've had some scares over the years with working on cars, lessons learned.
#29
08-21-2015, 04:23 PM
It is approximate.. not perfect. That's why I have been paying close attention here. The removal was OK, but the replacement will require some precision.
#30
08-21-2015, 05:28 PM
Ok - here is what I'm learning as i go along...
E-brake drum came off cleanly. Very cleanly. It was also full of a gooey mix of gear oil and brake dust...mmm, tasty. It is also heavy. I'm feeling better every minute about my ability to just bench-press this thing back into place.
Driveshafts are out, no major problems there. Both appear in good shape, and rebuilt with grease fittings.
I am going with the @abram method of removing the back cover on the case, immediately aft of the transmission output shaft, and subsequent gear removal.
I have stopped for today, and cleaned/organized everything, as I learned some hard lessons working too long on these things.
Hurdles left to cross:
Exhaust Y-pipe out - going to bandsaw it downstream of cats and re-weld. Exhaust studs are messy, and I can weld.
Cable disconnecting - ANY help or tips/tricks on that would be very much appreciated.
Waiting on parts to do the re-install, which is kind of nice, as it takes all the time pressure off this project. Will re-seal donor case, clean it out, and fill with Lucas 80W90 when done.
For getting this thing out, the studs for the mounts have a 15mm nut on them, which came off quite easily. I'm thinking I just take it out with the mounts on it, as the bolts that hold the mounts on didn't budge when I threw my 185lbs and a wrench on them.
Still looking for CDL cabling options - that ashcroft cable is nice, but spendy. Kinda thinking about getting a clutch cable off a bike and making a lever.
E-brake drum came off cleanly. Very cleanly. It was also full of a gooey mix of gear oil and brake dust...mmm, tasty. It is also heavy. I'm feeling better every minute about my ability to just bench-press this thing back into place.
Driveshafts are out, no major problems there. Both appear in good shape, and rebuilt with grease fittings.
I am going with the @abram method of removing the back cover on the case, immediately aft of the transmission output shaft, and subsequent gear removal.
I have stopped for today, and cleaned/organized everything, as I learned some hard lessons working too long on these things.
Hurdles left to cross:
Exhaust Y-pipe out - going to bandsaw it downstream of cats and re-weld. Exhaust studs are messy, and I can weld.
Cable disconnecting - ANY help or tips/tricks on that would be very much appreciated.
Waiting on parts to do the re-install, which is kind of nice, as it takes all the time pressure off this project. Will re-seal donor case, clean it out, and fill with Lucas 80W90 when done.
For getting this thing out, the studs for the mounts have a 15mm nut on them, which came off quite easily. I'm thinking I just take it out with the mounts on it, as the bolts that hold the mounts on didn't budge when I threw my 185lbs and a wrench on them.
Still looking for CDL cabling options - that ashcroft cable is nice, but spendy. Kinda thinking about getting a clutch cable off a bike and making a lever.