What's up with the pricing for this switch, they were about $200 2-3 years ago, now they are like $500??? I probably need one soon, my M & S lights come on once in a while and transmission goes into limp home mode, ok after reset but I am sure it will be a matter of time before I get stranded somewhere.
could remove, drill open, clean out, re-seal - there was a post recently with link to an Aussie site with pix of each step, basically you drill out rivits. Don't file contacts but do clean them, would suggest dielectric grease as well. There are guys on this forum who bought a whole Rover for less than that switch.
I have put two xyz switches on my 03 disco .. Refuse to pay landrover price of 500 + for there switch .. I can not belive they can look at a customer with a straight face .. U can by them used for around 150.00 from Coventry west .. They sale jag and land rover parts used 6 month warranty .. Good luck
The price of the switch goes up because there are little to no aftermarket ones available and it is a supply and demand scenario.
As stocks dwindle the price will continue to rise, and you can bet Land Rover is not making any more.
Car manufactures stop making parts for cars once they reach 10 yrs old and aftermarket or overstock is all that is left.
But thats not your problem, your problem is with battery voltage, when the transmission computer gets to little voltage it turns on the M&S lights as well as goes into limp mode.
Have your battery and alternator tested.
I too thought it was a voltage problem too. I found the battery terminals covered in acid because the battery was leaking. Replaced with a new battery, cleaned the terminals, the wires looked fine. 150 miles later, the neutral safety switch acted up again. Had to clear the code for transmission to come out of limp home mode. It has happened 2x since the cleaning. I think it is the neutral safety switch. I did also check the alternator, with all electrical components on its charging at 13.2-13.5.
How about with everything off, just at idle it should be 13.8 - 14.2. There are additional cables you may need to scrub clean up. Main frame ground of the negative battery terminal (follow the big cble), and large cables at front of the underhood fuse box, plus large fuse links in that fuse box. Page attached.
what are the check engine codes you are getting? there is a specific one for the xyz failing.
luckily it's not that hard to rebuild. the hardest part is breaking the adjuster nut loose on the shift cable. too much torque and u will snap the shift cable. spray the hell out of it with some pb blaster for a days before you start this job. other than that a few bolts, the wire harness, a wiggle, a drill, some electronic cleaner, some silicone and bob's your uncle.
if i were you i would re-route the A/C drain that drips on it and fills it with mirky goodness see in my picture above.
The fault code is specific to the XYZ switch, I don't have that written down in front of me.
I just did 300 miles this weekend and no hiccup. I just don't want this to happen when I am on a trail wheeling. I was mistaken regarding the alternator output, at idle with everything off, its between 13.9-14.1. With everything on, its at 13.8-13.9. I think that should be within specs. I will look at the fuse box wiring carefully, thx Savannah Buzz for pics. I have found work instructions on rebuilding the XYZ switch, will consider that. Also thanks for the tip to reroute the A/C drain..good idea. Its websites like this one that makes keeping this damn truck. When everything works I love it, but as soon as something starts to fail, all those bad thoughts come back haha.