Discovery II Talk about the Land Rover Discovery II within.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

New to me D2 SD

  #11  
Old 01-22-2015, 10:56 AM
bmeier's Avatar
Rock Crawling
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 300
Received 20 Likes on 19 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by slammin_LWB
Regarding the soft brakes.

.on the intake the little red clip that holds the booster line in is missing, and it has been secured with silicon. This isn't a check valve of sorts is it?

Ordering one anyways, but in the meantime....would like to know.

Where are you ordering this red clip from?. Mine is cracked, needs replacing, I've been looking to replace it for awhile now,
 
  #12  
Old 01-22-2015, 11:04 AM
slammin_LWB's Avatar
Mudding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: 24477
Posts: 101
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by bmeier
Where are you ordering this red clip from?. Mine is cracked, needs replacing, I've been looking to replace it for awhile now,
Is assembly. Tried getting some from junkyard trucks, but I don't know how to properly remove them...and consequently broke them all into bits.

Linky from Atl British. Looks like there is more to it than just a clip....

Intake Manifold Brake Servo Vacuum LZN100220
 
The following users liked this post:
bmeier (01-27-2015)
  #13  
Old 01-22-2015, 11:21 AM
Racer X's Avatar
Recovery Vehicle
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Queens, NYC
Posts: 1,079
Received 57 Likes on 51 Posts
Default

On the soft brakes that firm up after a couple of pumps, that sounds like air in the system, or (in my case) calipers that are no longer square due to excessive corrosion, or caliper slider pins that are sticky/ seized.

If you're confident that you've bled all the air and old fluid from your system, your next step is to carefully look at your calipers.
 
  #14  
Old 01-22-2015, 11:27 AM
slammin_LWB's Avatar
Mudding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: 24477
Posts: 101
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Racer X
On the soft brakes that firm up after a couple of pumps, that sounds like air in the system, or (in my case) calipers that are no longer square due to excessive corrosion, or caliper slider pins that are sticky/ seized.

If you're confident that you've bled all the air and old fluid from your system, your next step is to carefully look at your calipers.
Yeah, haven't done anything yet. Don't worry, not driving it...haven't had time to waste at the DMV. Was hoping maybe this red clip would be the issue and I wouldn't have to fool with brake fluid.
 
  #15  
Old 01-27-2015, 09:31 AM
slammin_LWB's Avatar
Mudding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: 24477
Posts: 101
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Drove it 40 miles to work today. It's pretty great.

Have a nice little vibration at interstate speeds, so I guess I'll be rebuilding my spare D2 propshaft.

Overall though, it did very well for it's maiden voyage.
 
  #16  
Old 01-27-2015, 12:56 PM
jamestfl's Avatar
Winching
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: South Flatistan
Posts: 741
Received 54 Likes on 52 Posts
Default

congrats on the D2. I've converted over to speed bleeders for the brakes, makes the solo job that much easier. x2 gazillion on the UltraGauge or comparable- the stock gauges register "warm" only after you've overheated. x2 on the front prop shaft. also- check the 90k service and get crackin' on that one.
 
  #17  
Old 01-27-2015, 01:34 PM
slammin_LWB's Avatar
Mudding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: 24477
Posts: 101
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

On the Ultragauge, is the EM Plus worth it? Mainly, will I be using the additional functions, or is the standard v1.2 fine?

Kind of like my iPhone, I don't use half the functions on it....and I hate that.

I work as a service manager at a indie German repair facility, and we have Aultel, so general code reading, etc I can handle there. Just want the UG for monitoring while on the go....it's cheaper than buying and installing analog gauges.
 
  #18  
Old 01-29-2015, 08:18 AM
slammin_LWB's Avatar
Mudding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: 24477
Posts: 101
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

So, in my quest to get everything working that wasn't when I got the truck (the window washers was the only thing), I broke one of the studs off the spare tire carrier. One was already broken. The third fought me every tread.

Ended up disconnecting the washer hose at the pump and giving it a nice blast of compressed air. Fixed.

The front washer hose was broken at the 90 degree that's integrated into the hood pad clip. I simply bypassed that with a vacuum fitting and all's well.

Now, get a new spare carrier, or weld in some new studs...

Also, tips to get the tail door panel off? I was trying but stopped. Didn't want to tear it.
 
  #19  
Old 01-29-2015, 08:26 AM
dusty1's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: dallas texas
Posts: 5,794
Received 210 Likes on 194 Posts
Default

Panel removal set helps a lot. $4ish at harbor freight.
I had a d2 with broken spare stud.... I drilled new holes and got some 14's from fastenal. Also a good opportunity to make a relocation bracket, if needed, bolt of weld that little guy on.
 
  #20  
Old 01-29-2015, 08:43 AM
slammin_LWB's Avatar
Mudding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: 24477
Posts: 101
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Tried that panel tool. The panel, being recessed in the door, made me think I was bending and deforming it too much. I'm going to order some (all) of the clips. I wanna get back there to install this ladder that came with the truck.

I'll probably just blast out the old studs with the plasma cutter and weld in new ones. I don't plan on going over 32" tires. I kinda like this thing as is. My RRC is pretty terrible to drive with the 33"s etc.
 

Last edited by slammin_LWB; 01-29-2015 at 08:46 AM.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: New to me D2 SD



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:17 PM.