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Is this original front drive shaft?

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  #31  
Old 04-25-2015, 10:52 AM
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So I crawled underneath yesterday to try and get the old one off, but the bolts and nuts are pretty hard to get to with my standard socket. The front set is installed with the bolt on the rear/shaft side and nut in front. two questions:

1. Am I relegated to using a side wrench? If so, when tightening up after installation of new shaft, how is 35 lbs of torque assured?

2. How do I get to all 4 bolts/nuts when some are "hidden" out of sight while under the vehicle? At least one on each end is nearest the underside of the cabin.
 
  #32  
Old 04-25-2015, 01:40 PM
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Need to roll the truck a little back and fort, to get better access to nuts, I think it's 45lbs not 35lbs, gettin it right will be a little trickey, cause if u use a torque wrench and universal attachment then have to tighten a little more to compensate for extra angle In joint bends.
 
  #33  
Old 04-25-2015, 01:59 PM
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You r right it's 35lbs
 
  #34  
Old 04-25-2015, 03:23 PM
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Chalk the wheels and put the transfer case in N . If you use A 9/16 socket on a wobble ext. will eliminate the univeral joint.tighten the tc side first.
 
  #35  
Old 04-27-2015, 08:09 AM
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Thanks guys, I completed the job and a transmission fluid/filter change. I found that 14mm hex socket fit even more snug than 9/16 hex, but the fit was so tight that I couldn't effectively use it and stuck with 9/16
 
  #36  
Old 04-27-2015, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by acamato
From a garagejournal thread "any lock nut with a nylon insert will be grade 2 only as the metal cannot be any stronger or the crimping process for the nylon insert cannot be done. All of the higher strength lock nuts will be all metal with a distorted top."
Too bad that's BS. I have drawers of both grade 5 and grade 8 nylocks in my garage.
What's funny is the guy who posted that included a link where you can easily find grade 5 and 8 nylocks.
 

Last edited by antichrist; 04-27-2015 at 08:44 AM.
  #37  
Old 04-27-2015, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by antichrist
Too bad that's BS. I have drawers of both grade 5 and grade 8 nylocks in my garage.
What's funny is the guy who posted that included a link where you can easily find grade 5 and 8 nylocks.
for sure , but U know how it is... someone hear's something from someone else and or reads half of article somewhere (sometimes even a BS article that was just an opinion not a fact) and without further investigation or any real experience just because it sound's "logical".... , all of a sudden its a fact,,,because "JOHN SMITH" said so......
some people just know everything....
 
  #38  
Old 04-28-2015, 02:42 PM
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After doing some more research. From Aztech lock nut... Nut grades are letters and classes are numbers..


What is the grade or class of the mating bolt?
The mating part grade or class should be equivalent to the locknut grade or class as indicated in the following table.
Nut Grade Bolt Grade Nut Class Bolt Class
A 2 8 8.8
B 5 9 9.8
C 8 10 10.9

SAE J995: Mechanical and Material Requirements for Steel Nuts (Grade 2, 5 & 8). defines yield, tensile strength and hardness for each grade. Not sure it this standard addresses lock nuts.

IFI-100/107: Prevailing-Torque Type Steel Hex and Hex Flange Nuts Regular and Light Hex Series (grade letters (A, B, etc)
ASME B18-6.6: Prevailing Torque Locknuts (Inch Series) = N2, N5, N8 (for nylon lock nuts). Defines chemical composition and hardness of steel
 

Last edited by acamato; 04-28-2015 at 03:08 PM.
  #39  
Old 04-28-2015, 07:45 PM
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Is there an emg for snoore?
 
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