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The wires are out! Much easier job than I thought. I had a long needle nose pair of plyers ( saw in a post somewhere) That worked well.
#7 coil plug did not have the ring on the connector. looking forward to getting the mirror down there to have a look if it is stuck in the coil.
Good progress! That #7 coil ring is a pisser. To get it out you'll probably have to remove the coils. I've read that you can slide he coils out to the left (passenger side) but I don't believe it. I've always removed the upper intake.
Those rings just hold the coil on what looks like a threaded post. You could probably leave it in there. Your new wire just wouldn't go down as far.
I put dielectric grease in mine. I'm not sure what the general wisdom is... I put grease, threadlocker, rtv, oil or dielectric grease on everything.
Thanks Charlie Kingsborne recommends grease on the spark plug boot but not the coil. I was going to take a look with the mirror if I see it and just pop (if it lets me) on the new one.
Oh damn. I'm glad I stuck with that because when he gave the Websters definition I almost passed out.
I've been squirting it in the top of the boot; shove on spark plug. Yikes. I have my plugs off now (doing bearings) so that's timely information. Thanks!
Agree on that. The misfire will eventually ruin something you shouldn't have to replace: the y pipe with both catalytic converters.
I re read the thread and on the second run through with a scanner you had misfires but there were only 4 codes put of 8 shown. Did the misfires improve at all with the plugged in wires?
There is a chart somewhere with the coils that go to specific cylinders. Lemme see.
I like this one better:
So the 6, 2, 5 and random misfires are not on one coil. The coils could just be going bad but if the bolts are in (all 4) and the engine ground strap is tightened down by the driver side head to the firewall, I wouldn't naturally suspect the coils.
Whenever I get random misfires I immediately suspect vacuum, MAF, or catalytic converters clogging, in that order. The brake cleaner trick works to find a big vacuum leak and my video above shows where I would spray. The only way to check the cats other than a code is to drop the exhaust by taking off the three bolts on each side where the manifold attaches to the y pipe for a short, loud idle to see if the engine smoothes out. The MAF... Just unplug yours at the connector. If nothing changes then it is entirely suspect and you should consider getting a cheap one or borrowing one. I'd do it in that order. Vacuum is the most likely. If the previous owner ran it alot with a flashing service engine light then the cats may be toast, resulting in the p1300, and the cheapest fix is a cheapie Davico y pipe with cats on eBay or Amazon. I have one. They work. But I wouldn't do that unless dropping the exhaust takes care of the misfires.
I had a horrible experience with a stuck injector (ruined a remanufactured engine, basically, on the very first run) but I haven't read any reason to assume that's an issue. You could put an injector cleaner in the gas. Otherwise you have to pull them and take them to a shop, which really isn't that hard.
I'm sure you have found all of the engine electrical connectors and made sure they are connected but I not I can made a quick video.
The worst thing it could be, in my mind, is a lack of compression in the cylinders because that would require a rebuild but I don't see how that could be the case with so many misfires.
You haven't seen sparks between wires and have good wires. You could swap the #1 and #2 wires to see of the misfire moves and if it does, the wires have degraded. STI wires are great but they don't last forever. No point in swapping 5 and 6 because they are the same length. But if 2 resolves with a swap, then wires are an issue. Swapping the wires is a huge pain in the behind, so you might want to try moving the plugs around first of you haven't already.
I'm assuming you haven't been losing coolant or getting exhaust bubbles in the expansion tank, so there is no reason to suspect head gaskets.
My post is getting sort of random. I wish you lived close and Id be glad to help in person. Let us know what the current status us and what you've done and we will figure it all out. The oil leak is probably the least problem at the moment.
This was a huge help for me today Charlie. Thank you
Will give the wire guys credit for the good definition of dielectric and suggestion of using on plug boots for arc prevention and sticking. Other than that their video is full of misinformation about not using on electrical contacts/connections.
Dielectric grease is designed to be applied to the mating surfaces of electrical contacts that may need to be easily disassembled during future maintenance. Coating battery posts or ring terminals prior to terminal installation and use on pin/socket connectors is highly recommended. Some sealants such as polysulfide based may be used in the same manor to protect more permanent connections or those subjected to severe environmental conditions.
It works by effectively eliminating the potential for joint crevice corrosion by sealing the mating surfaces. It prevents galvanic corrosion that can form when moisture/air gets into the many small voids left once contacts are pushed or mechanically fastened together. The dielectric grease or a sealant doesn't affect the electrical contact because it is squeezed out during installation and doesn't provide enhanced contact as some read/see/hear,
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04-30-2016, 12:52 PM
