Removing the rear wheel bearing
#11
#12
You need to un-deform the crimped nut. You will need a high performance impact gun that can do about 500lbs reverse torque to undo the nut. After that every thing is pretty straight forward.
I tried 3 breaker bars with life time warranty and they broke and I tried to use hydraulic jack to rotate the bar and it just wouldn't turn that nut.
You need that multiple impact in bursts to loosen that nut. Simple torque won't do it.
Rest is as shown in the FSM.
#13
After getting the brakes and rotor off, which will be an epic experience if you live in rust belt, you will see the axle nut which is crimped against the detent on the splined shaft.
You need to un-deform the crimped nut. You will need a high performance impact gun that can do about 500lbs reverse torque to undo the nut. After that every thing is pretty straight forward.
I tried 3 breaker bars with life time warranty and they broke and I tried to use hydraulic jack to rotate the bar and it just wouldn't turn that nut.
You need that multiple impact in bursts to loosen that nut. Simple torque won't do it.
Rest is as shown in the FSM.
You need to un-deform the crimped nut. You will need a high performance impact gun that can do about 500lbs reverse torque to undo the nut. After that every thing is pretty straight forward.
I tried 3 breaker bars with life time warranty and they broke and I tried to use hydraulic jack to rotate the bar and it just wouldn't turn that nut.
You need that multiple impact in bursts to loosen that nut. Simple torque won't do it.
Rest is as shown in the FSM.
Also...the 'O' ring, is that the bearing retainer hub or an actual rubber 'O' Ring?? I can't figure that out from the exploded view.
#14
IIRC the O ring goes between the housing and the bearing assembly. Gotta be careful so that you don't pinch/seat it wrong.
#15
#17
The reason you couldn't find your rotary brass wire brushes...is because you needed them...now that you are done...they will appear out of thin air.
This has been my findings on such things anyway...lol.
Glad it came a part and is making its way back together. Almost time to switch from tea to wine in celebration.
Brian.
This has been my findings on such things anyway...lol.
Glad it came a part and is making its way back together. Almost time to switch from tea to wine in celebration.
Brian.
#19
I have used a standard 1/2" electric impact gun on mine to remove the nut with no issues. For reinstallation, I used a craftsman breaker bar with a cheater pipe and stood on the breaker bar about where my weight would equal the torque value.
For pulling the hubs, I once used a small sledge on the back of the hub, but the rest of the time used a gear puller, which worked like a champ.
I have also had to use a light coating of RTV on an o-ring to get it to seal. I just smeared it on with my finger.
For pulling the hubs, I once used a small sledge on the back of the hub, but the rest of the time used a gear puller, which worked like a champ.
I have also had to use a light coating of RTV on an o-ring to get it to seal. I just smeared it on with my finger.
Last edited by dr. mordo; 01-18-2017 at 10:30 PM.
#20
I broke 3 breaker bars on that nut with hydraulic 3 ton jack. It is pretty scary how that bar bends to store energy. I was about 6 feet away on my belly with 3/4inch plywood shielding my head as I was lifting that breaker bar with the jack.