Okay,

So i am replacing my starter and have read the toughest bolt to get to was the top one. I have seen several posts regarding the starter replacement, but havent really seen what size tool(s) you need to do the job. Im seeing things from torx to hex and what not. As far as the top bolt, whats are the best tools for the job? Extensions. how long? Any help would be much appreciated. Also, what size bolts? Just for the record, I have connected a test light to my starter and lights up, also, only way I go it running to pull in garage was knocking it wiht hammer. So I know its the starter. Thanks all.

 

6 or 8 mm allen key. I can't remember what extensions I used to get to mine but I do remember that I got it working from the top.

Hope this helps.

 

It is an allen bolt, and you'll want to wash it out with brake cleaner or something so you get all the way to the bottom. A couple of long extensions will get you out ahead of the axle, and it works OK from there.

 

On the D2, 8mm inside hex/allen on the top bolt. I just did this and I think I used the extensions in this order from the bolt head up, but not 100% sure.

8mm hex drive bit socket -> 3" ext. -> universal (stiffer is better) -> 6" ext -> 3/8" ratchet. I directed the sockets down between the pipes and toward the bolt, then took my hand to put the hex in the bolt head. Carefully grabbed the ratchet and kept pressure to keep it in the bolt head, and then loosened it slowly.

You can use an additional 6" ext. at the top end to get you up away from the manifold pipes, but I found I could get more torque on it with just the one 6" extension and coming up in the middle of the manifold between the 2nd and 3rd pipes.

You definitely want to clean the crude out of the top bolt head first (PB Buster) and at the same time soak that bolt overnight may not hurt, depending on how much oil is on/around your parts. Same bolt size inside hex bolt on the bottom.

There is also a shallow bolt head on the motor mount flange to on the front of the engine that holds the heat shield on, 10 mm I think. Nice pic of this in RAVE to locate this bolt head. You will need to hold it snug to keep the socket on while taking it off or it will slip off the bolt head. I have not put this back on, just let the spring-clip on the heat shield hold it in place on the starter itself after replacement.

You had to work with the heat shield to get around it. I ended up bending it a bit to get it out, and just bent it a little at a time to put it back in to get back to the original shape in regard to the 90 degree angle for the mounting point to the motor mount.

The nut on the battery cable on the top of the starter is 13mm.

Below pic from a D1, but same idea on a D2.

 

Thanks for the advice everyone. After an hour and a half, I got it out. Only needed the extension for the bottom bolt. That one seemed the toughest. Top bolt i was able to use body weight to bust loose, took a good deal of force but got it. Now to take it to autozone tomorrow and pick up my new one for 89 bucks!

 

Just an update. Got new starter in and shes runs like a top!

 

I can suggest you all a top quality starter parts shop with top quality service. You can kind find over here all kind of parts for any models.......

 

i got a landrover 97 any advise of what can it be the reason car does not start all the lights work but just dont start any help!!

 

Well, does it turn over (starter runs, but engine fails to start)? If yes, then check for spark (crank shaft position sensor usually) or fuel pressure at fuel rail on passenger side (32-34 PSI).

If it does not turn over check all battery cables, and the cable from negative battery terminal that bonds to the frame down by radiator. If you tap starter firmly with a hammer and starter begins to work the unit needs to be replaced.

Your red alarm light on dash should not be on or flashing.

 

THanks