Repairing Split Brake Hard Line
#1
Repairing Split Brake Hard Line
I had a mysterious and drastic loss of brake fluid. I traced it to a split in the hard line to the right rear wheel. It is split where the line goes across the rear axle. The line appears to be a single piece from the abs controller to the flex line on the wheel.
I don't want to replace the entire line with a hard line, and I have a length of stainless flex line from a past project that might be long enough to replace it. Anyone have a better suggestion? And what is the thread and hard line end style (flare, double bubble or ?) on the disco 2?
I don't want to replace the entire line with a hard line, and I have a length of stainless flex line from a past project that might be long enough to replace it. Anyone have a better suggestion? And what is the thread and hard line end style (flare, double bubble or ?) on the disco 2?
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X1 and also carefully inspect all the hard brake lines as if one has corroded through maybe the others aren't far behind. As disc oh no says, change the whole brake line bearing in mind these are probably the originals and think how long they've lasted. If you want to go belt and braces spray the new lines with a clear laquer after installing them.
#4
OffroadFrance has a really important point here. If one went, how far behind are the others? I personally don't replace all the lines when one goes bad. I have a friend who does that on any older vehicle that comes into his shop with brake line issues. I don't think it's always necessary though.
Just a pointer on replacing them, if you (or anyone else who may find this thread) haven't done them before. I find it's easier to figure out what you need if you remove the lines from the vehicle first. I'm usually careful to leave the bends in them so I can sort of duplicate the path of the line a little better. Though I don't always follow the exact path the stock line took if it's too difficult to follow.
With the lines out on the ground, it's much easier to get a measurement. I also cut the ends off and bring them with me because I am terrible with fitting sizes. I just plain can't remember what I need when I get to the parts store half the time.
Good luck!
Just a pointer on replacing them, if you (or anyone else who may find this thread) haven't done them before. I find it's easier to figure out what you need if you remove the lines from the vehicle first. I'm usually careful to leave the bends in them so I can sort of duplicate the path of the line a little better. Though I don't always follow the exact path the stock line took if it's too difficult to follow.
With the lines out on the ground, it's much easier to get a measurement. I also cut the ends off and bring them with me because I am terrible with fitting sizes. I just plain can't remember what I need when I get to the parts store half the time.
Good luck!
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I used a Cal Van Tools 155 bubble flare tool.
Cal Van Tools 155 Flaring Tool, Bubble
I also used some NiCopp European preflared lines. European NiCopp Nickel/Copper Brake Line, 3/16 x 12 « AGS Company
I used these to replace lines coming out of the ABS modulator
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dusty1 (06-29-2015)
#9
DII's use a bubble flare. I had an issue with a frozen fitting when I replaced the small flex jump lines (behind the drivers side front tire). I had to cut back one of the steel lines, install a new fitting and reflare the steel line.
I used a Cal Van Tools 155 bubble flare tool.
Cal Van Tools 155 Flaring Tool, Bubble
I also used some NiCopp European preflared lines. European NiCopp Nickel/Copper Brake Line, 3/16 x 12 « AGS Company
I used these to replace lines coming out of the ABS modulator
I used a Cal Van Tools 155 bubble flare tool.
Cal Van Tools 155 Flaring Tool, Bubble
I also used some NiCopp European preflared lines. European NiCopp Nickel/Copper Brake Line, 3/16 x 12 « AGS Company
I used these to replace lines coming out of the ABS modulator
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