Essential stuff the seals. Do the front shaft seals and rear 'O' rings whilst you have them off, easy stuff and also repack the CV joint too. Don't forget you'll need 4x stake nuts for refitting the shafts to the hubs together with various greases etc. Remember Plusgas is your friend for rusty seized on nuts/bolts, (WD40 is a spray lubricant not a penetrating oil), use it the night before and refresh an hour before you start. Have fun, good luck.

PS a large puller/hub puller makes removal a real easy job.

PPS. Check with Dusty1 or Paul Grant they've also done these many times I'm sure.

 

No plus gas here in the states. I use PB Blaster, but any penetrant of similar aggressiveness will work.

 

Can you please elaborate on the 4x stake nuts you mentioned? Off the top of my head Im unsure what you are referring to. If you are referring to the 4 bolts that hold the wheel hub assembly to the axle then my plan was to re-use the original ones. I took some advice from Rovers North while I was on the phone ordering the wheel hubs and they said that using the old bolts should be fine. I will be replacing the axle shaft nut though.

Regarding the grease on the splines, which kind of grease should I look for at Advanced Auto Parts? Ill have to do some research on the CV joint because I have no idea what that is. Im still learning as I go.

Regarding the axle shaft seal, which direction does it go on? Ive searched this question on the forums and people dont seem to agree which way the rubber side should be facing. Disco Mike said that the rubber side would always face the direction of the component you are sealing. If that was true than I expect the flat metal side of the seal should be facing outwards towards the wheel and the rubber side inwards towards the axle.

 

He means that you need 4 new stake nuts for the axles, one for each one if you pull all 4 hubs off. For the CV joint, you want special grease which you can find at an autoparts store. For the retaining compound for the splines on the shafts, you probably need to go to a decent supplier. I bought mine at a local machine shop.

 

Alright so you are referring to the axle shaft lock nut then: LOCK NUT - HUB-AXLE SHAFT P38A, DISCOVERY II, CDU1534L, RND679, PLD679 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts and yes I ordered 2 of them for now though one is on back order so I will have to re-use one of them for now. Ill use the new nut on the passenger side since that is the side with the bad wheel hub.

Another question about the CV joint. Is it alright to re-use the c-clip? And can I get away with leaving the dust shield on? See video below and skim to :0.41



And this is the c-clip im referring to:

 

You can reuse the snap ring or c-clip that holds the cv joint on. And you don't need to mess with the dust shield.

 

Alright thanks for all the help, much appreciated. I think I can do the job so ill give it a try this weekend. The wheel hubs should be easy though. Ill post back if I have any issues or more questions.

 

If you get stuck TRIARII just post your questions and I'm sure we can all collectively help. It's not a difficult job but care and cleanliness is the name of the game. The RAVE has sections thro the hubs on pages 51-3 (rear) and 54-3 (front). To remove the hub it's easier with a hub puller or large 3 legged pullers. The front seals go metal/solid side out, i.e. the ribbed cavity side towards the oil flow, the diff on both sides.

 

Great Video man. Also thanks for that link. $100 is a great price.

 

This is a great thread and I enjoyed seeing the video on replacing the hub. My questions is about hub quality as the ebay link had the hub for $78 while all of the usual places sell a single hub assembly for anywhere from $295 to $550++. Are these the same quality hubs or what should I look for (brand, etc.) when buying a hub assembly? Thank you.