..:: The "Sputtering" Situation ::..
#21
I think you really need that thing fixed immediately and have a complete tune up. If you are getting the p0420, that requires immediate attention or that 420 will bug you even after a major tune up, meaning your cats are nearing to its end.
With regards to the battery flashing intermittently, that could be just proper grounding and most likely your alternator still is working fine. It often meant that your charging is not sufficient but when the alt completely dies, then the batt light will stay on. I found out that when I replaced to a new battery, my light was still on the entire time so I had to get a new alternator. My other LR had a batt light blinking then, but cables were loose and I thought that the alternator was shut, after tightening the cables it all worked fine until now.
Gerry
With regards to the battery flashing intermittently, that could be just proper grounding and most likely your alternator still is working fine. It often meant that your charging is not sufficient but when the alt completely dies, then the batt light will stay on. I found out that when I replaced to a new battery, my light was still on the entire time so I had to get a new alternator. My other LR had a batt light blinking then, but cables were loose and I thought that the alternator was shut, after tightening the cables it all worked fine until now.
Gerry
#22
I think you really need that thing fixed immediately and have a complete tune up. If you are getting the p0420, that requires immediate attention or that 420 will bug you even after a major tune up, meaning your cats are nearing to its end.
With regards to the battery flashing intermittently, that could be just proper grounding and most likely your alternator still is working fine. It often meant that your charging is not sufficient but when the alt completely dies, then the batt light will stay on. I found out that when I replaced to a new battery, my light was still on the entire time so I had to get a new alternator. My other LR had a batt light blinking then, but cables were loose and I thought that the alternator was shut, after tightening the cables it all worked fine until now.
Gerry
With regards to the battery flashing intermittently, that could be just proper grounding and most likely your alternator still is working fine. It often meant that your charging is not sufficient but when the alt completely dies, then the batt light will stay on. I found out that when I replaced to a new battery, my light was still on the entire time so I had to get a new alternator. My other LR had a batt light blinking then, but cables were loose and I thought that the alternator was shut, after tightening the cables it all worked fine until now.
Gerry
Since I've thrown a couple "things" at you, I'm thinking you mean the "misfiring situation", if so yes; I know that if not taken care of soon it might end up in bigger issues.
Before leaving to work this morning I rechecked the wires on the plug's end to confirm all well properly connected -especially #8, and they were ...tried to feel if any came loose on the coil's end -considering I could quickly fit my hand without much trouble or gettin' dirty, and what I felt did not indicate any being loose; but did feel at least one swiveling fairly easy, think it might be #8, since that's the one I tried to feel; anyhow, I'll be checking that on the weekend, hopefully it is loose at that point, or the wire is bad; to test it, I'll swap it with #7 and see if the misfire replicates on #8 again, or on #7, in an attempt to rule the wire good or bad ...would this approach make sense?
Again, plugs I've checked "look OK", you may see that from the pics I posted, but I may be wrong.
And actual coil-pack is old, rusty and beat up, but throwing in a new one at this point won't really tell me if any of the other elements are bad, would this thought be about right?
Supposedly plugs are meant to be replaced at 90K intervals -I'm at 30K, so replacing them be a smart move? ...actual wires are 8mm Kingsborne, also replaced when the plugs were back then, so replacing them be another smart move?
I'll see what the wire swapping does first and take it from there, hopefully would be able to pinpoint the issue and take care of it a.s.a.p. as you indicate.
As per 0420, I guess it must have started since last owner; it used to be always present, but cleared after that 30K tune up I did; since then, it has come and gone, I keep clearing it sonce I'm aware of it, but sometimes it takes very long time for it to resurface, eventually I will need to correct it, just not now.
As per the BAT light, I'm aware; it's just curious that it's acting up during this ordeal, just reassuiring it is an electrical issue altogether that I'm experiencing. So will have to look into the alternator quicker than I thought, and rule out that it's dying, or in need to have it's bearing replaced, overhauled, or completely replaced by another one.
This morning BAT light stayed on for a while, then off, with flickering indicator lights lighting up all over, so definitely, something is also wrong in that department.
Drive to work had the regular jumpiness, but light, manageable ...for some reason the afternoon drive gets more faulty... dunno why.
Thanks again for your input!
Last edited by adolfojbonilla; 03-23-2017 at 11:29 AM.
#23
Hello Roverers!
Here's an update of the sputtering situation. The idea was to swap cylinder #8 wire to #7, and rule out it was faulty, but when removing cylinder #7 wire from the coil-pack, it broke at that end, so I went to AAP and got a new set of their Carquest premium cables, just to replace the short one that broke and keep testing.
With #8 wire on #7 (8mm Kingsborne), and the new 7mm Carquest on #8 (this is the cylinder throwing a code 0308), and after changing oil & filter and clearing up the codes, I went for a quick drive.
Fault is still present -blinking SES light came on, then to solid, now 0308 is showing again. Fault don't seem as harsh as in the past days though, you can feel it hesitate on acceleration, and softly while rolling. But I have a week of testing ahead.
I think is safe to rule out the wire being faulty ...thinking of swapping plugs to rule that out, if not, I guess the coil-pack would be next? waiting on your inputs to see where I stand.
Other issue would be to have to buy a new set of 8mm Kingsborne, just to replace the one that broke, the rest seem fine.
Thank you all.
Here's an update of the sputtering situation. The idea was to swap cylinder #8 wire to #7, and rule out it was faulty, but when removing cylinder #7 wire from the coil-pack, it broke at that end, so I went to AAP and got a new set of their Carquest premium cables, just to replace the short one that broke and keep testing.
With #8 wire on #7 (8mm Kingsborne), and the new 7mm Carquest on #8 (this is the cylinder throwing a code 0308), and after changing oil & filter and clearing up the codes, I went for a quick drive.
Fault is still present -blinking SES light came on, then to solid, now 0308 is showing again. Fault don't seem as harsh as in the past days though, you can feel it hesitate on acceleration, and softly while rolling. But I have a week of testing ahead.
I think is safe to rule out the wire being faulty ...thinking of swapping plugs to rule that out, if not, I guess the coil-pack would be next? waiting on your inputs to see where I stand.
Other issue would be to have to buy a new set of 8mm Kingsborne, just to replace the one that broke, the rest seem fine.
Thank you all.
Last edited by adolfojbonilla; 03-26-2017 at 09:38 AM.
#24
Hello Roverers!
A little help could come handy folks ...situation hasn't improved at all.
After swapping a couple wires and plugs, and same fault repeating itself, I placed an order for a pair of brand new BOSCH coil packs, which finally arrived on tuesday, so spent good part of tuesday and wednesday night replacing them.
Tonight I checked that everything was connected right and tight in place, and when I was certain, I turned the key and the truck fired up as usual.
P0308 is still present as a logged fault, with a couple of new boys showing up for the party -after less than a mile drive to the supermarket and back, these are: P0300, P1300, P0304 and still pending P0150 & P0304.
Before driving off to the supermarket, and closing the hood, I noticed pretty nice fireworks out of Cyl 8, so for sure there is some trouble there. Checked the wire and seems to be nicely in place, but I guess I should check again when colder, and I have to also check Cyl 4, since it has now shown up as faulty.
Wires on Cyl 8 are good, used a replacement wire sent by Kingsborne when one broke while attempting the initial swap. Cyl 1 wire also broke off at the coil end when swapping coils, so had to use one from the 7mm Carquest set bought at Advanced in the previous days.
In any case I will be replacing all wires, since I was able to check them up close and saw some with a few cracks and even chipped, so might as well just change them all.
And I guess it wouldn't hurt to replace plugs as well -should I use the same Platinum BOSCH I had, or any other recommendation? at least I'll know for sure they are new, along with a new set of Coil Packs, and the wires.
Any other thing I should be looking at or missing, I need to get this truck back on the road a.s.a.p.
I'll pop the hood now that is dark and check for sparks, hopefully I may get a short video that I can share with you all.
Any help will be very much appreciated!
A little help could come handy folks ...situation hasn't improved at all.
After swapping a couple wires and plugs, and same fault repeating itself, I placed an order for a pair of brand new BOSCH coil packs, which finally arrived on tuesday, so spent good part of tuesday and wednesday night replacing them.
Tonight I checked that everything was connected right and tight in place, and when I was certain, I turned the key and the truck fired up as usual.
P0308 is still present as a logged fault, with a couple of new boys showing up for the party -after less than a mile drive to the supermarket and back, these are: P0300, P1300, P0304 and still pending P0150 & P0304.
Before driving off to the supermarket, and closing the hood, I noticed pretty nice fireworks out of Cyl 8, so for sure there is some trouble there. Checked the wire and seems to be nicely in place, but I guess I should check again when colder, and I have to also check Cyl 4, since it has now shown up as faulty.
Wires on Cyl 8 are good, used a replacement wire sent by Kingsborne when one broke while attempting the initial swap. Cyl 1 wire also broke off at the coil end when swapping coils, so had to use one from the 7mm Carquest set bought at Advanced in the previous days.
In any case I will be replacing all wires, since I was able to check them up close and saw some with a few cracks and even chipped, so might as well just change them all.
And I guess it wouldn't hurt to replace plugs as well -should I use the same Platinum BOSCH I had, or any other recommendation? at least I'll know for sure they are new, along with a new set of Coil Packs, and the wires.
Any other thing I should be looking at or missing, I need to get this truck back on the road a.s.a.p.
I'll pop the hood now that is dark and check for sparks, hopefully I may get a short video that I can share with you all.
Any help will be very much appreciated!
Last edited by adolfojbonilla; 04-06-2017 at 08:01 PM.
#25
#26
#27
I'll double check the hoses, but I'm sure they are secured and in place, especially the ones on the IACV, had to googled which was the correct positioning since I didn't make note of it when removed it, but is good.
And thruth be told, the only new parts are: both Coil Packs, Cyl 7 wire -which is a Kingsborne 8mm, and Cyl 1 wire -which is a Carquest 7mm from AAP, since the old one broke as well.
No plugs have been replaced, just swapped Cyl 8 with Cyl 2, to rule them faulty.
The spark on Cyl 8 is pretty obvious in the dark, lights up pretty much; didn't see any other sparking.
This would indicate a wire issue -correct me if I'm wrong; so need to go out tomorrow saturday to get a new set, a decent one that I may be able to get in a store nearby (Advance, Napa, O'Reilly, etc), don't have the time to wait for a set of Kingsborne to come by mail, so any suggestions on what I should get locally? ...if this would be a solution ...also, would plugs be the issue, should I get something different than the Bosch Platinum 4 it now has on? or might there be another culprit for the predicament I'm in? ...thanks again!
Last edited by adolfojbonilla; 04-07-2017 at 09:43 PM.
#28
#29
I had some issues with misfires after I redid the head gaskets on mine. I did a complete tune up and ended up using champion platinum plugs instead of the Bosch +4. That could be some of your issue from previous members stories. I put on a set of bearmach plug wires and the engine wasn't running right so in a haste I went and got ngk plug wires....worst mistake ever. I ended up getting a full set of kingsborne wires and swapped out the front o2 sensors with walkers and cleared the codes and all of fine now. I hope this helps you BC I know you feel like u are up **** creek without a paddle
#30
I had some issues with misfires after I redid the head gaskets on mine. I did a complete tune up and ended up using champion platinum plugs instead of the Bosch +4. That could be some of your issue from previous members stories. I put on a set of bearmach plug wires and the engine wasn't running right so in a haste I went and got ngk plug wires....worst mistake ever. I ended up getting a full set of kingsborne wires and swapped out the front o2 sensors with walkers and cleared the codes and all of fine now. I hope this helps you BC I know you feel like u are up **** creek without a paddle
I'll recheck the wires of Cyl 8 & 4 tomorrow and confirm they are connected correctly, in hopes I overlooked that; otherwise, I will have to wait 'till next weekend to put new wires and new plugs, and cross my fingers.
Hopefully it will stop at that! ...if not, have to move onto the next "Usual Suspect", until I find Keyser Söze! ;-]#