Steering still hard after changing power steering pump
#1
Steering still hard after changing power steering pump
Hi all,
My power steering pump developed a sudden leak at the gasket, resulting in hard steering and whine. I replaced the pump with a unit from Miami British along with the low pressure hose, and topped up the fluid. Waited until the truck warmed up and took it out for a drive, but the steering is very hard, like there is no "power" to it at all.
Checked the belt, checked the fluid, checked for leaks and nothing seems wrong.
Ideas?
My power steering pump developed a sudden leak at the gasket, resulting in hard steering and whine. I replaced the pump with a unit from Miami British along with the low pressure hose, and topped up the fluid. Waited until the truck warmed up and took it out for a drive, but the steering is very hard, like there is no "power" to it at all.
Checked the belt, checked the fluid, checked for leaks and nothing seems wrong.
Ideas?
Last edited by johnnyjohnny; 05-21-2014 at 01:58 PM.
#3
You have to bleed the PS system to get the air out. This is how I do it:
1)Find a small wrench that fits the bleed screw and keep it near by
2)attach a clear hose to the bleed nipple and run it down to the ground into a catch container.
3) take off the lid to the reservoir, make sure it's full and start the truck.
4) once warm (around 160 and above) I take the wrench and very carefully reach my hand down between the intake tube and the fan and get ready to open the bleeder.
5) With a helper, have someone start to turn the steering wheel in one direction while you open the bleeder. Once they reach the fully lock position have them hold it there for 2-3 seconds and close the bleeder. (don't hold at full lock for longer than 10 seconds). Once the bleeder is closed tell them to start turning the other way. Open the bleeder again before they reach full lock in the other direction and close it after 2-3 seconds at full lock.
6) Top up the reservoir. You can usually open the bleeder 2 times before it needs a refill, but if you open it full blast then it can drain quick so keep an eye on it and never let it get low or it will suck in more air.
7) repeat steps 5, 3-4 times and you should be air free and have all fresh fluid in the system.
I hope this helps.
1)Find a small wrench that fits the bleed screw and keep it near by
2)attach a clear hose to the bleed nipple and run it down to the ground into a catch container.
3) take off the lid to the reservoir, make sure it's full and start the truck.
4) once warm (around 160 and above) I take the wrench and very carefully reach my hand down between the intake tube and the fan and get ready to open the bleeder.
5) With a helper, have someone start to turn the steering wheel in one direction while you open the bleeder. Once they reach the fully lock position have them hold it there for 2-3 seconds and close the bleeder. (don't hold at full lock for longer than 10 seconds). Once the bleeder is closed tell them to start turning the other way. Open the bleeder again before they reach full lock in the other direction and close it after 2-3 seconds at full lock.
6) Top up the reservoir. You can usually open the bleeder 2 times before it needs a refill, but if you open it full blast then it can drain quick so keep an eye on it and never let it get low or it will suck in more air.
7) repeat steps 5, 3-4 times and you should be air free and have all fresh fluid in the system.
I hope this helps.
Last edited by Jared9220; 05-04-2014 at 08:15 PM.
#5
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shanechevelle (09-27-2019)
#6
Still no power assist
Bled the system, but nothing was coming out consistently from the bleed screw. With the fluid reservoir cap off, it would only show a couple of bigger bubbles when the steering was close to lock. Otherwise, no movement in fluid, so I took it to the local LR dealer....probably a bad move, but I seem to be prone to making those.
They've replaced both the fluid reservoir and the high pressure line, and still no movement. They're now saying the new PAS pump is faulty, but I think that's unlikely. It's a brand new one from Lucky8, and both the original pump and the new one result in the same behaviour.
There is still the return line from the gearbox to the reservoir that could be plugged, and also the gearbox itself. Is there a way to backflush the gearbox, or do a hydraulic pressure/flow test of the gearbox while it's still on the vehicle? Also, IF I need to replace the box, some websites indicate that there are two versions: '99-'02 and '03-'04, while others say that all years use the same one. Can anyone please confirm which is correct?
Thanks in advance.
They've replaced both the fluid reservoir and the high pressure line, and still no movement. They're now saying the new PAS pump is faulty, but I think that's unlikely. It's a brand new one from Lucky8, and both the original pump and the new one result in the same behaviour.
There is still the return line from the gearbox to the reservoir that could be plugged, and also the gearbox itself. Is there a way to backflush the gearbox, or do a hydraulic pressure/flow test of the gearbox while it's still on the vehicle? Also, IF I need to replace the box, some websites indicate that there are two versions: '99-'02 and '03-'04, while others say that all years use the same one. Can anyone please confirm which is correct?
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by johnnyjohnny; 05-17-2014 at 01:45 PM. Reason: added question about box versions
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