Taking heads off this weekend, exhaust manifold bolt concerns
#1
07-23-2014, 12:55 PM
Taking heads off this weekend, exhaust manifold bolt concerns (Top end rebuild)
Due to a pass side rear coolant leak that is getting worse. I plan on pulling my heads this weekend to get rebuild.
I did the valley gasket, rocker arms & shafts last summer, I should have done the heads them. My biggest concern is removing the exhaust manifold bolts from the heads. I plan on spraying them down with PB blaster. Are they known to be a PITA to remove?
I am debating on how far do I go...
ARP Studs ~$215 (I already have new head bolts)
Timing Chain, sprockets & gaskets ~120
Oil Pump ~$100
Water Pump ~150
Cam (53229) & lifters or 84150 kit (Springs, lifters & retainers) ~$400-600
Last summer I pulled a few lifters and they were not dished. I will check all of them when I pull the heads. If they are dished, my decision will be easy. The whole list above will get done.
I did the valley gasket, rocker arms & shafts last summer, I should have done the heads them. My biggest concern is removing the exhaust manifold bolts from the heads. I plan on spraying them down with PB blaster. Are they known to be a PITA to remove?
I am debating on how far do I go...
ARP Studs ~$215 (I already have new head bolts)
Timing Chain, sprockets & gaskets ~120
Oil Pump ~$100
Water Pump ~150
Cam (53229) & lifters or 84150 kit (Springs, lifters & retainers) ~$400-600
Last summer I pulled a few lifters and they were not dished. I will check all of them when I pull the heads. If they are dished, my decision will be easy. The whole list above will get done.
Last edited by acamato; 08-08-2014 at 02:41 PM.
#2
07-23-2014, 01:24 PM
If you're going that far into it, you might as well do it all.
On the exhaust manifold bolts, heat is your friend more than anything since those bolts have threadlocker on them, but you can expect to snap one or two, depending how bad the corrosion in the spacer sleeve is.
I would order a few spare bolts and spacers, just in case.
On the exhaust manifold bolts, heat is your friend more than anything since those bolts have threadlocker on them, but you can expect to snap one or two, depending how bad the corrosion in the spacer sleeve is.
I would order a few spare bolts and spacers, just in case.
#3
07-25-2014, 04:01 PM
My plan is to tear down the motor this weekend. Going to order the oil pump, timing chain, gears, ARP studs from L8 on Monday. May have to add to the list depending upon what I find. Still debating about the cam (leaning toward the 53230 vs the 53299) and lifters. Going to reinstall the water pump. I can always do that when it starts to weep.
Head are going to cost $300 to get cleaned, decked and valve job, without parts.
Head are going to cost $300 to get cleaned, decked and valve job, without parts.
#5
07-25-2014, 10:20 PM
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#8
07-26-2014, 07:01 AM
Mudding
I never had a problem with mine, I didn't have air tools at the time, so I just used a breaker bar and soaked them in WD-40 before I started the teardown. If anybody does try it without air tools be careful and don't put to much torque on them. I also coated the bolts with anti-seise before putting them back together.
#9
07-26-2014, 10:46 PM
Got the heads and timing cover off. Also removed the radiator to make room for an impace gun because I forgot to take off the crank bolt untill after I got the heads off.
Snapped the head off one of the exhaust manifold bolts. Used a pair of vice grips to get the rest of it out once I got tne heads off.
What PITA the rear bolt on the drivers side head is to get off. I deformed the SnapOn 5/8" (1/2" drive) socket taking off the pass side bolts, when I got to the drivers side, I couldn't get it to sit right when I applied torque to the bolt. So, I tried a deep socket, not eonugh room, was hitting the firewall.
Then I tried a 3/8" drive breaker bar and socket and used a box end wrench for additional leverage. That was a mistake, the breaker bar snapped and cut my hand. Went to sears to get a 1/2" drive 5/8" socket. What a poor selection of sockets they have. They didn't even have a replacement breaker bar.
Went to Lowe's and got some 5/8" impact sockets. Went home and finally got it off with a 5/8" shallow impact socket and a 1/2" breaker bar.
I inspected the cam lobes and found most had a polished edge with browning across the face. A few were all polished across the face. The I looked at the bottoms of the lifters and found a couple that had uneven wear and couple that were slightly dished. Time to order a cam and lifters from Crower.
When I got the timing cover off, there is alot of play in the chain.
I still need to drop the cross member so, I can get the oil pan out.
Tomorrow I will some the timing chain, valve covers and oil pan to the parts washer at my firehouse where I volunteer to clean them. I still need to see what kind of shape the oil pump is in.
I cracked the coolant line going from the radiator to the overflow tank. May just run hose instead. This is the 2nd one I cracked.
Snapped the head off one of the exhaust manifold bolts. Used a pair of vice grips to get the rest of it out once I got tne heads off.
What PITA the rear bolt on the drivers side head is to get off. I deformed the SnapOn 5/8" (1/2" drive) socket taking off the pass side bolts, when I got to the drivers side, I couldn't get it to sit right when I applied torque to the bolt. So, I tried a deep socket, not eonugh room, was hitting the firewall.
Then I tried a 3/8" drive breaker bar and socket and used a box end wrench for additional leverage. That was a mistake, the breaker bar snapped and cut my hand. Went to sears to get a 1/2" drive 5/8" socket. What a poor selection of sockets they have. They didn't even have a replacement breaker bar.
Went to Lowe's and got some 5/8" impact sockets. Went home and finally got it off with a 5/8" shallow impact socket and a 1/2" breaker bar.
I inspected the cam lobes and found most had a polished edge with browning across the face. A few were all polished across the face. The I looked at the bottoms of the lifters and found a couple that had uneven wear and couple that were slightly dished. Time to order a cam and lifters from Crower.
When I got the timing cover off, there is alot of play in the chain.
I still need to drop the cross member so, I can get the oil pan out.
Tomorrow I will some the timing chain, valve covers and oil pan to the parts washer at my firehouse where I volunteer to clean them. I still need to see what kind of shape the oil pump is in.
I cracked the coolant line going from the radiator to the overflow tank. May just run hose instead. This is the 2nd one I cracked.
#10
07-26-2014, 10:56 PM
Got the heads and timing cover off. Also removed the radiator to make room for an impace gun because I forgot to take off the crank bolt untill after I got the heads off.
Snapped the head off one of the exhaust manifold bolts. Used a pair of vice grips to get the rest of it out once I got tne heads off.
What PITA the rear bolt on the drivers side head is to get off. I deformed the SnapOn 5/8" (1/2" drive) socket taking off the pass side bolts, when I got to the drivers side, I couldn't get it to sit right when I applied torque to the bolt. So, I tried a deep socket, not eonugh room, was hitting the firewall.
Then I tried a 3/8" drive breaker bar and socket and used a box end wrench for additional leverage. That was a mistake, the breaker bar snapped and cut my hand. Went to sears to get a 1/2" drive 5/8" socket. What a poor selection of sockets they have. They didn't even have a replacement breaker bar.
Went to Lowe's and got some 5/8" impact sockets. Went home and finally got it off with a 5/8" shallow impact socket and a 1/2" breaker bar.
I inspected the cam lobes and found most had a polished edge with browning across the face. A few were all polished across the face. The I looked at the bottoms of the lifters and found a couple that had uneven wear and couple that were slightly dished. Time to order a cam and lifters from Crower.
When I got the timing cover off, there is alot of play in the chain.
I still need to drop the cross member so, I can get the oil pan out.
Tomorrow I will some the timing chain, valve covers and oil pan to the parts washer at my firehouse where I volunteer to clean them. I still need to see what kind of shape the oil pump is in.
I cracked the coolant line going from the radiator to the overflow tank. May just run hose instead. This is the 2nd one I cracked.
Snapped the head off one of the exhaust manifold bolts. Used a pair of vice grips to get the rest of it out once I got tne heads off.
What PITA the rear bolt on the drivers side head is to get off. I deformed the SnapOn 5/8" (1/2" drive) socket taking off the pass side bolts, when I got to the drivers side, I couldn't get it to sit right when I applied torque to the bolt. So, I tried a deep socket, not eonugh room, was hitting the firewall.
Then I tried a 3/8" drive breaker bar and socket and used a box end wrench for additional leverage. That was a mistake, the breaker bar snapped and cut my hand. Went to sears to get a 1/2" drive 5/8" socket. What a poor selection of sockets they have. They didn't even have a replacement breaker bar.
Went to Lowe's and got some 5/8" impact sockets. Went home and finally got it off with a 5/8" shallow impact socket and a 1/2" breaker bar.
I inspected the cam lobes and found most had a polished edge with browning across the face. A few were all polished across the face. The I looked at the bottoms of the lifters and found a couple that had uneven wear and couple that were slightly dished. Time to order a cam and lifters from Crower.
When I got the timing cover off, there is alot of play in the chain.
I still need to drop the cross member so, I can get the oil pan out.
Tomorrow I will some the timing chain, valve covers and oil pan to the parts washer at my firehouse where I volunteer to clean them. I still need to see what kind of shape the oil pump is in.
I cracked the coolant line going from the radiator to the overflow tank. May just run hose instead. This is the 2nd one I cracked.
Keep the updates coming.