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Top end engine rebuild w/ pics and video

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  #21  
Old 03-05-2015, 01:26 AM
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Default Cylinder head is off!!! Video!!!

Originally Posted by sdhow
I don't see the compressor...and where do the exhaust gases enter?
LMAO, these sockets are worth their weight in gold.

Good news! One of the heads is off!! And I do not see evidence of a slipped liner! The blowout is not between the cylinder walls. Video below, thanks to everyone for their help!

 
  #22  
Old 03-05-2015, 06:36 AM
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lucky man throw it together and enjoy it for another 75k
 
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  #23  
Old 03-05-2015, 07:04 AM
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Use ARP head bolts. The stretch bolts is what causes the cracks between the cylinder walls do to the thin walls. I would bet that your next HG job will be a slipped liner. Just my opinion.
 
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  #24  
Old 03-05-2015, 07:06 AM
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minor correct; ARP head studs
 
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  #25  
Old 03-05-2015, 07:28 AM
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Yes drow, you are correct...had not finished my coffee yet.
 
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  #26  
Old 03-05-2015, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by drowssap
lucky man throw it together and enjoy it for another 75k
If I can get 75k, this will have been time well spent!

Originally Posted by ralphobell
Use ARP head bolts. The stretch bolts is what causes the cracks between the cylinder walls do to the thin walls. I would bet that your next HG job will be a slipped liner. Just my opinion.
I will grab the recommended head bolts. I would like to avoid another head gasket job, but having gained some experience with this job am confident that I will be able to tackle another one in the future, thanks.

Originally Posted by drowssap
minor correct; ARP head studs
Originally Posted by ralphobell
Yes drow, you are correct...had not finished my coffee yet.
Could you provide a link to the correct part? I still have not been able to remove the multiplug from the plenum.. How does this thing come off? Oh, and what should I have the machine shop do, resurface heads, full valve job, anything else?

You guys rock!
 
  #27  
Old 03-05-2015, 11:24 AM
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what you have done to your head depend upon your milage, under 100k you're probably all right just having them decked.
If you're much high than that you could have a valve job done, which ever one of you do it make sure you replace the valve guide seals that will come with the gasket kit.

ARP should list two numbers one for older rovers 14-bolt heads and one for newer rovers 10 bolt heads, the older set will give you 8 extra studs for less money than the newer set. check the numbers
 

Last edited by drowssap; 03-05-2015 at 11:38 AM.
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  #28  
Old 03-05-2015, 11:32 AM
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Since your already have the heads off go ahead and get the valve job. Not that much more and well worth it.

ARP part number for head bolts is
157-4301

Check with Lucky8 they also say they have them. AB sells them but are at top dollar.
I know you can also get them from Summit Racing.
 
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  #29  
Old 03-05-2015, 11:47 AM
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About the head bolts/studs? I just realized that I bought these from AB. If these are prone to failure I will get ARP 157-4301

Land Rover Head Bolt Kit (Same fit as Part # ERR2943) Fits Discovery, Range Rover & Defender Vehicles
 
  #30  
Old 03-05-2015, 11:53 AM
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that's a decision you will have to make yourself if you want to use bolts or studs.

Personally i would use studs, i believe a lot of these junk blocks are caused by the people replacing the head gaskets.
they jerk the bolts tight, use extension bars, cheater bars and what not because they can not evenly apply the proper pressure to smoothly tighten the bolt. which cracks the hole in the block but thats just my theroy
 

Last edited by drowssap; 03-05-2015 at 12:00 PM.
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