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Totally locked out... HELP

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  #31  
Old 10-16-2014, 09:51 AM
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also if they do not flip BOTH keys when it time to do the second side, it will probably only work one way.
 
  #32  
Old 10-21-2014, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by OffroadFrance
Been there, done that, got the 'T' shirt. Don't break the side window yet, done that it's a real PITA.

Can you crawl under the LR and see the starter terminals? If you can the starter is directly attached back to the battery. Attach a battery, preferably a smaller battery, to the live terminal and one to the negative or chassis. (check it out but it should be negative earth) Ensure you attach the correct way round to each terminal otherwise you cause yourself BIG problems. Once attached to a battery the key fob should be able to open the doors and then you can open the hood. Charge up your battery or jump start the truck and let it run without any lights, heater A/C or anything else electrical on. Remember to fully charge the battery overnight afterwards.

Alternatively, attach a battery charger to the starter terminals and open the doors on the key fob. Then charge up the battery or jump start the truck. Good luck.

PS. Oh, breaking the rear door glass as I did is the last resort and it'll cost you a few $$$$ and a lot of work cleaning up broken glass and fitting a new glass window even if you tape the existing glass with tank tape first, I'm speaking from experience.
Hi Offroad france, thanks for the information, i am researching the starter terminal. I read online it is located on the passenger side near the engine? I just want to double/triple check since i do not want to ruin my LR.

Also is there another other thing i need to know???

I will grab a small 12V motorcycle battery and bring my fob underneath my LR.

THANKS AGAIN.

Any other advice will be appreciated.
 
  #33  
Old 10-22-2014, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by RicketyTick
See if you have a tru-value and see if they have the blanks to cut for you. I will try to post a pic of my cut blanks and remote key for you in a bit to see if they look any different. Gotta get some stuff done outside before dark. Will do that a little later.
Winner. Went to True Value. They have every kind of key produced it seems.

Mine says X239 RV4 on it.

Geezer there cut it matching up the shoulders, ignoring the length, then just trimmed it down a little bit on the end to match.

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Works in the door and ignition first time, no hastle.

I also wake up this morning to a text from the previous owner. "Hey, I found the spare key, want it?" Classic.

So now I have three keys. Think I will get one of those magnetic boxes, put the true value one in it covered in silicone and hide it under the car somewhere. For that time I am in a car park very far away and disaster strikes.
 
  #34  
Old 10-22-2014, 05:10 PM
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Oh well, can't have too many keys. I always keep one underneath all of my vehicles, has saved me more times than once.

I haven't lost my remote yet (knock on wood) but, I did leave it on the back bumper of someones jeep once. They left and I couldn't find my keys so after looking all over for about 30 minutes I called them to see if I may have left it in or on their jeep anywhere and they pulled over on side of the interstate to look and found them laying on their back bumper. They had traveled about 50 miles and the keys were still there. Got lucky on that one.

I also lost my remote key here once for a few days. That's around the time I went and had 4 blanks cut.
 

Last edited by RicketyTick; 10-22-2014 at 05:13 PM.
  #35  
Old 09-16-2018, 04:00 PM
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So, I just faced this exact dreaded situation. After pilfering Google and YouTube for info on another way to get in, I'd suggest instead of breaking the window to pop the cap off the lock mechanism on the door handle (it takes relative force but does pop off and back on after.) Once the cap is off, just remove the tumbler. It's in my opinion a much better solution than smashing a window. I refused to do that. I had to break the tumbler out in pieces as I couldn't access the release from the outside of the door. I removed that and took a long phillips screwdriver and was able to use the electronic switch inside and unlock all the doors. Also, it helps so you don't have to worry about the dreaded superlock. (I've used the word dreaded twice in the same paragraph, hahaha)

It's the truck I bought for my fiance, she loves the thing. I will stick with my BMW E90. But hopefully my information helps somebody out there.

Go snag a tumbler from a junkyard and have a locksmith reset the pins in the new one. As far as the linkage pin once I rebuild the tumbler assembly, I am between the nail, or the heavy duty linkage pin kit they sell on eBay, justifying $35 for a piece of metal is tough. The previous owner used JB weld to make the last "pin" it was pretty much hilarious. Until my fiance broke it on the first turn after I tried to temporarily repair it. But long story short, crisis averted.
 
  #36  
Old 03-24-2020, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by OffroadFrance
Been there, done that, got the 'T' shirt. Don't break the side window yet, done that it's a real PITA.

Can you crawl under the LR and see the starter terminals? If you can the starter is directly attached back to the battery. Attach a battery, preferably a smaller battery, to the live terminal and one to the negative or chassis. (check it out but it should be negative earth) Ensure you attach the correct way round to each terminal otherwise you cause yourself BIG problems. Once attached to a battery the key fob should be able to open the doors and then you can open the hood. Charge up your battery or jump start the truck and let it run without any lights, heater A/C or anything else electrical on. Remember to fully charge the battery overnight afterwards.

Alternatively, attach a battery charger to the starter terminals and open the doors on the key fob. Then charge up the battery or jump start the truck. Good luck.

PS. Oh, breaking the rear door glass as I did is the last resort and it'll cost you a few $$$$ and a lot of work cleaning up broken glass and fitting a new glass window even if you tape the existing glass with tank tape first, I'm speaking from experience.
Just tried this and my battery charger (6A) goes into "overload" (as if it's shorted) and shuts off. I made sure that the positive clamp from the charger was on the positive starter terminal and the negative clipped to the frame. Any ideas?
 
  #37  
Old 03-24-2020, 07:30 PM
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Instead of your battery charger, try using jumper cables. Jumper cables won't go into "overload."
 
  #38  
Old 03-24-2020, 08:06 PM
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Weird. When I used the same battery charger directly on the battery it didn't have any problems. If the starter terminal is directly connected to the battery, then it should work the same. I don't want to blow anything up...
 
  #39  
Old 03-25-2020, 07:17 AM
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6 amps battery charger is NOT man enough. Use a good battery and jump cables, the stater motor pulls more amps than anything on an LR. Make sure you connect the correct way around or there will be a HUGE flash and more issues. Good luck!
 
  #40  
Old 03-30-2021, 06:15 PM
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Default How to open LR3 hood if battery dead

 


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