This weekend Im updating the power steering system with a new pump, new reservoir and 2 new hoses along with LR PS fluid. Fitting new serp belt. I also have a new heater plate Id like to install and maybe the valve cover gaskets. I also checked my front wheels and learned that my front passenger wheel hub/bearing is bad and needs to be replaced real soon.

Todat I got most of the components in the engine bay taken apart so I can access and replace the power steering pump which I expect to receive in the mail tomorrow. I also have the next 2 days off so what would it take to replace the valve cover gaskets? (already have the gaskets) Do I need to drain the engine oil or add any oil after the job is done? Also Im going to be replacing the throttle body heater plate and i could not find much help on youtube for doing the job. I do not have access to the rave at all right now either so any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

The valve cover gaskets will require you take off the upper manifold so you should buy a upper intake gasket to replace to old one. Also, there is a little groove in the valve cover gasket that the valve cover sits in. If you put some RTV in that groove and put it on the valve cover, it will hold to gasket onto the valve cover while you move it into place. This really comes in handy with the Passenger side valve cove as it is a little more difficult to get back on.

You do not have to drain the oil to do the valve cover gaskets.

For the power steering pump you need to be sure to not over torque the 2 bolt and 1 nut holding the PS pump on. If you over tighten it will make it difficult to turn the pulley. I believe the nut is 7lbf.ft and the bolts are 22lbf.ft.

The throttle body heater is an easy fix. remove the 3 little bolts holding it on (I believe they are 8mm), unclamp the 2 hoses and move them to the new heater. Clean the old gasket off the throttle body and install the new gasket and heater.

I can upload you the RAVE instructions for the PS pump and Throttle body heater if you want.

 

Thanks for the tip mate! Ill keep that in mind when I fit the new pump on the bracket. Could you please upload the instructions for the valve covers step by step and the heater cover? Though from the sounds of it the heat plate will be easy.

Thanks so much.

 

Yeah I'll upload the instructions for you. I need to know if you have SAI or not.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l_u...ature=youtu.be

 

I think I do have SAI but Im not 100% positive. I do know that I have a secondary air reservoir cause I recently replaced it with a new one. This is the best indication I have as to weather or not I have SAI. I bought mine from RN but here is what Im referring to: http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/WID100000G

 

Have you ever remove the upper manifold before? It can be a bit of work for the first time. I would set aside a full day to do the job.

Start by removing the hood to give you better access. It's a quick thing to do and if you mark the hood hinges before removing the hood you won't have to mess with realigning it after putting it back on. Just carefully (it's easy to break) disconnect the windshield jets, mark the hinges, and remove the 4 bolts. I used a razor and scratched a line along each side of the hinge, but a suppose a sharpie would work.

To remove the valve covers first you need to drain the cooling system. Do you already know how to drain, refill, and bleed the cooling system?

Then you need to remove the upper manifold. Take time and look at how the throttle and cruse cables are adjusted so you can get them back on the same way. The cables are set at a certain "gap" and I like to take measurements before removing the cables.
Upper manifold removal (With SAI).pdf
throttle and cruise cable adjustment.pdf

After the upper is off you can remove the valve covers.
Valve cover removal (Left and Right).pdf

I didn't include the throttle body heater info because when you take the upper manifold off the heater comes off with it. While the manifold is off it's a quick 5 minute job to swap out heaters.

 

My guess is you have SAI. Can't miss it. There's a valve on each side by the valve covers along with a stainless steel tee connected to the heads. How old are your ignition wires? Great time to do them while the manifold is off. Make sure you clean up the inside of the valve covers and the breather while it's apart too. Might want to pick up some wire loom (the black covers) to replace any sections that are falling apart. Using loctite on the VC bolts seems to help keep them in place for good so make sure you have some of that on hand also.

 

Ive never removed the intake manifold before, I dont have the upper intake gasket and Ive never did a coolant fluid drain/flush myself before. I do not have a water hose or any fancy equipment that may be needed for doing coolant flush. I also dont have any more $$$ until the 30th.

That said is it still possible to do the valve cover gaskets on my own this weekend? Ill look up how to drain/bleed the coolant system on youtube, but any tips from you guys would be greatly appreciated. I have one nearly full jug of 50/50 peak coolant. Would that be enough to do the job? Sorry to be a pain in the ***, Im learning as I go and ive never done this level of work before BUT Im eager to learn.

 

I personally would not take the upper manifold off until you can install a new upper manifold gasket. The gasket is a metal crush type gasket and it's basically a one time use. If it doesn't seal right you air will get in and cause it to run lean.
This is the gasket:
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/ERR6621

You will need more then 1gal of coolant. I usually have 3gals on had in case I have to take something back off and refill, but 2 gallons should do with no mistakes. There are tons of threads on how to drain and fill/bleed the cooling system. Basically you are just going to remove to clamp on the lower radiator hose, remove it and let it drain. When it comes time to fill it back up you unclip the clear coolant tank, hold it up so it's the highest point in the cooling system, and fill the system with the bleed screw open. Once a good amount of coolant has come out of the bleed screw and no more air, tighten it up. Replace the clear tank and run the engine. Here are the instructions from the RAVE:
Cooling System- Drain and Refill.pdf