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Valley pan gasket (lower intake gasket) round 2

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Old 09-23-2012, 10:18 AM
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Default Valley pan gasket (lower intake gasket) round 2

Is there a trick to get valley gasket to seal at the ends? I have an oil leak coming from the rear of the engine which I am sure is due to incorrect installation on my part. (This was all part of my head gasket repair) Fair enough Rover 1 - Me 0. I followed the Rave. So, to cover my bases a few questions:
1) When the Rave says apply sealant to notches near the heads and heads, how much do you use?
2) Would you use hylomar as a sealant in this location, or black high temp? (I used the black high temp)
3) Would you lightly coat the top of the rubber end seals (to bond with valley gasket) with sealant or go on dry?
4) When the Rave says position clamps and lightly tighten, how much is lightly? Do you tighten until gasket lines up with the runners and then proceed to install lower intake?
5) Any other words of wisdom?

Thanks!
 
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Old 09-23-2012, 12:01 PM
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A large gobb in all 4 corners and yes, some will also smear a thin film along the rubber seal, but not needed.
 
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Old 09-23-2012, 12:07 PM
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You probably forgot to install the rubber gaskets under the metal end caps.
You can't just put down sealant or RTV.

Correct installation is putting a small bead of RTV or sealant onto the
lip of the block.
Then place the end gasket onto it - correct positioning as these gaskets
are curved.

Then put on metal retainer with one bolt - torqued correctly.

I got the drip of oil once on a Discovery I.
I had NOT put in the rubber gaskets under the metal retainer.
 
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Old 09-23-2012, 12:08 PM
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Take a look at these pictures..

Flickr: Landroverdude2's Photostream
 
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Old 09-23-2012, 12:19 PM
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You want to tighten until the gasket compresses and the metal bottoms.
I just did mine fairly snug - from years of fiddling with these.

Putting Permatex non hardening onto the corners
and a bead on the lip of the block is how I have done it on a DI
and on a D2.

The engines - in this respect are dead identical.

Sorry you need to go all thru and take it apart again.
I had to do that with the D1.

I had an oil drip coming off every 20 seconds to a minute.
It fell - right smack on the Y pipe and made a nice stink.
 
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Old 09-23-2012, 12:21 PM
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Hylomar - I am not really impressed by it.
I use the Permatex non hardening.

Actually, on the Discovery II - I used Aviation gasket sealer.
Now that stuff - is the bomb.

Works for airplanes - will work on the Rover too.

 
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Old 09-23-2012, 03:18 PM
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A dab of Permatex Ultra Gray under the ends of the valley seals is all you need. Put Red Loctite on the intake bolts, torque them sequentially and in three steps, go have a beer, and torque them one last time. The intake gasket will last 50,000 miles.
 
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Old 09-23-2012, 05:07 PM
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I did what Mike said to do when I did my head gaskets and it worked like a charm. Mike told me to put a little gasket sealant at each corner and it worked like a charm.
 
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:51 AM
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DO NOT USE "Put Red Loctite on the intake bolts" if you ever want to get your intake off again. Blue or green yes , Red No.
 
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Old 09-24-2012, 10:03 PM
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Thanks everyone for the feedback. I ordered the parts and if I get the time, will start on it this weekend.
 


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