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Watt Linkage upgrade

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  #1  
Old 03-17-2013, 09:58 PM
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Default Watt Linkage upgrade

Hello, I've had a lift kit on my D2 for almost 2 years now. It's a 3" suspension lift. My rear watts linage konked out a few months back. I just figured it was old and needed to be replaced anyway. I found another one from a wreacker that was off a stock low K's D2, put it in and my problem was solved but now after 2 months and a couple offroad trips my rear end is back to knocking again.

I've seen the bent arms from RTE but i'm wonding if anyone else has done anything to address the bind you get in the watt linkage set up when running a lift?

Even sitting in my drivway I can see the top arm is twisting slightly. I can only imagine what it must by like with full articulation climbing rocks.
I'm almost thiking of chopping the top arm in half and putting a slight twist on it to compensated this issue.

FYI my watt linkage gave out in the same spot both times. The upper arm mount on the diff section with the three holes.

Any thoughts? Anyone done anything to fix this?

The bushing are not cheap for these and I don't want to replace again to have the same problem so quickly. I'm seeing bushing kits for around $200 and that wouldn't include hours of pounding to get the old ones out.
 
  #2  
Old 03-18-2013, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by toofaroffroad
Hello, I've had a lift kit on my D2 for almost 2 years now. It's a 3" suspension lift. My rear watts linage konked out a few months back. I just figured it was old and needed to be replaced anyway. I found another one from a wreacker that was off a stock low K's D2, put it in and my problem was solved but now after 2 months and a couple offroad trips my rear end is back to knocking again.

I've seen the bent arms from RTE but i'm wonding if anyone else has done anything to address the bind you get in the watt linkage set up when running a lift?

Even sitting in my drivway I can see the top arm is twisting slightly. I can only imagine what it must by like with full articulation climbing rocks.
I'm almost thiking of chopping the top arm in half and putting a slight twist on it to compensated this issue.

FYI my watt linkage gave out in the same spot both times. The upper arm mount on the diff section with the three holes.

Any thoughts? Anyone done anything to fix this?

The bushing are not cheap for these and I don't want to replace again to have the same problem so quickly. I'm seeing bushing kits for around $200 and that wouldn't include hours of pounding to get the old ones out.
This is the only solution I'm aware of...

Lucky8 Llc. - Take the road less traveled...

 
  #3  
Old 03-30-2015, 09:24 PM
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Is that watts just bent or is it extended and bent? I'm thinking about just modifying the extra watts link I have on my parts truck when I lift.
 
  #4  
Old 03-31-2015, 04:48 PM
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I ended going with a Panhard rod conversion. Very cheap very easy, way way way better in every way possible. do it!!
 
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  #5  
Old 03-31-2015, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by toofaroffroad
I ended going with a Panhard rod conversion. Very cheap very easy, way way way better in every way possible. do it!!
Did you buy that Panhard or fab it yourself? If you bought it, from where please, be useful to know. Thanks.
 
  #6  
Old 03-31-2015, 09:13 PM
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I thought about it, but I don't have a welder and I don't really want to buy extra parts when I already have this one to modify. I could have it mandrel bent, chopped, and then lengthened with a sleeve welded over cheaper still than the panhard.
 
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Old 03-31-2015, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by toofaroffroad
I ended going with a Panhard rod conversion. Very cheap very easy, way way way better in every way possible. do it!!
instructions? Please and thankyou!
 
  #8  
Old 03-31-2015, 11:07 PM
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Also, completely unrelated. Anybody running on the road with your rear sway bar disconnected? Is there a noticable handling difference? How did you hang it up and out of the way?
 
  #9  
Old 04-01-2015, 02:23 AM
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Thats a good one, i have been meaning to do that with mine front and rear.
 
  #10  
Old 04-01-2015, 05:45 AM
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Looks like the trailing arms & panhard arms that I built for my old Trans Am. You can get the rod ends (bush or spherical) and pre tapped tube stock (metal or aluminum) from Coleman Racing for cheap!

Trailing Arm, Aluminum, Coleman Car
 


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