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Need a little help in where to start

  #21  
Old 11-19-2014, 04:47 PM
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Rick,

Thanks for the information, I have all of the belts along with the bolts and caps. I ended up buying a tool set for the timing belts so I had everything I need. I will pick up the water pump and the front belt tensioner. Is the tensioner one of the things to check or since I'm that far in just do it? The other one is the Idler pulley in the front do I need this too? The first think I did when I got it home was to drain the oil and replace with 0-40 and a new oil filter (that I filled and then put on). Thanks again for the info now I need to make the time to replace everything. Looking it over the back rear belt will be the hardest to get to without taking off 1/2 the engine. One more thing what do you think about changing the thermostat Housing?

Thanks Again
Marty
2004 Freelander 80K
 
  #22  
Old 11-20-2014, 10:31 AM
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Marty, the tensioner, idler, and thermostat are all good things to replace as you take it down that far. You will be draining the coolant to replace the pump, so taking care of the thermostat now will save you a gallon of coolant later on. Once you have the upper plenumn and both intake manifolds off the rear belts will be easier to access. Be careful removing the plastic cooling and vent hoses as they can be brittle and snap without warning.
Make sure you get new plenum o-rings and seals (there are three of each) when reinstalling the unit to prevent any vacuum leaks. You must also be very particular in cleaning the mating surfaces where the lower manifolds attach to the heads to avoid vacuum and coolant leaks as well. Be patient taking out the old thermostat, as it can be difficult to pull from the block, including the elbow that is adjacent to it. Never use old or non-OEM o-rings on either as they will leak. You can get thermostat kits that include the elbow and pipe that connects to the water pump which includes all the correct seals.

It will growl like a tiger when you are done. Run it through the gears manually (sport mode from stop, pull the shifter back to down shift and forward to up shift.) and enjoy as it goes through 4500 RPM.
 
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  #23  
Old 11-21-2014, 08:45 AM
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Rick,
Thanks again and I will make sure I take your advise when I start tearing it down. I'm sure I'll need a good weekend if not longer because I don't want to push it. I will get the parts ordered and make sure the seals are OEM, I don't want any leaks when I'm finished. I see the Atlantic British has a Thermostat kit with intake gaskets and O-rings. I see a number of water pumps for sale on eBay and Atlantic British ranging from $40 to $150?? is there that much of a difference?

Marty
04 Freelander 80K
 
  #24  
Old 11-21-2014, 10:22 PM
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Marty, for the KV6, the water pumps were made by one or two manufacturers at the most. The cheapest may be a rebuild, but I wouldn't know for sure. I've purchased my last two from Parts Geek and they have been excellent. If I recall, the price with shipping was around $65. To be honest, I have never seen or heard of one failing as they usually get replaced with the belts. Whichever you choose, I'm sure it will outlast the new belts.

And I should also mention that the front motor mount is taken off to replace the belts, so you will need a floor jack or similar to hold the engine up while doing the repairs...
 

Last edited by rtonder; 11-21-2014 at 10:28 PM. Reason: I'm old and forgetful.
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  #25  
Old 11-22-2014, 07:39 AM
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Rick,
Thanks again, I'm all set with a floor jack for the engine. I just need to finish ordering the parts and start working on it. I may change out the one rear belt and drive it up and down the road to make sure there is nothing else going on and then pull it in for the rest of the belts, water pump and thermostat housing. You have been a great help and I will keep you posted.

Marty
04 Freelander 80k
 
  #26  
Old 04-17-2015, 04:45 PM
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Ok so the weather broke and I can get started on the timing belts. I have been following the manual and everything was going good until it was time to insert the locking pin. And I can't figure out for the life of me where it goes. All of the pictures and videos show it right out in the open but from what I can tell it is behind the exhaust. Am I making this harder than it should be? Please tell me a better way to get at the hole???

Marty
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  #27  
Old 04-18-2015, 07:27 AM
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Marty, its behind the front cat, and it is hard to see from the front of the car. If you have the pulley set to "safe", and position yourself by the front right wheel (you should have that wheel off), look across the front of the block where the A/C compressor bolts on. You will see several holes in the rear block flange where the transmission bolts on. Use a flashlight, and beam into the holes from the same location. You will see the flywheel, and you may have to move the pulley slightly to line up the hole. To place the pin, it's a bit of a wrist wrencher as you reach up under the front valance, to the drivers side of the cat, and insert the pin.

Note that I have seen a few freelanders where the front serpentine belt pulley does not always alighn very well with the safe mark. It's best to use the notch on the timing belt sprocket as it is dead-on. Good luck.
 
  #28  
Old 04-18-2015, 08:57 AM
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Thanks, I found the holes and will work on getting the pin in today. I think I still am a little off because the rear cam tool is just a touch off and will not drop in the slots on the exhaust cam. With so much stretch in the belt I think I will need to turn the cam slightly to get it aligned. Let me know as there is nothing in the repair manual or the video to tell you if it doesn't line up.

thanks again
Marty
04 Freelander 80K
 
  #29  
Old 04-20-2015, 07:07 AM
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Your intuition is correct - the worn belt will make placing the rear tools difficult. The intake cams should be in the right spot, but the exhaust will trail behind. Once you remove the front cover/caps from the exhaust cams, you can use the special cam-end tool to give them a twist and the tool will snap in.

Once you have the lock pin in, the engine is safe from interference even if you cut the belts off. All four cams go to a neutral point at this location which is just slightly off (in terms of rotation) from the point where the tools attach.
 
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  #30  
Old 04-22-2015, 10:52 AM
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Rick,
Thanks again, I was able to get the pin in with the help of my Wife (Smaller Arms) and looks like it went full depth per the pictures and sound it made when it dropped in. I had to go out of town this week for work and will be back on it this weekend. Thanks again and I will keep you posted.

Marty
04 Freelander 80K
 

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