you need to replace your vis motors, its easy, total of 8 screws... but before you buy them, take them off, and check to make sure that the linkage is good, theyre the little black boxes with connectors at the rear pass side of the upper intake, take off the cover and youll see them. take them off and make sure the rod isnt loose up and down on the one that faces up, and that the square peg isnt brokenand that the flap still moves well on the one that faces the rh fender, be careful with the gaskets, you dont get new ones with the new parts, reuse them... as to the 1074, never seen it, its a fuel trim adaption code, i would do the vis motors and see what happens, you do need to check your plastic vacuum lines on top of the engine, make sure theyre not broken, if so, replace them too

 

Buy one of the cheapie OBD2 readers ($160) and cancel it. Mine had a brand new manifold under warranty and it still throws up these spurious codes.

 

ROVERGUY7:
"take them off and make sure the rod isnt loose up and down on the one that faces up..."
I think I have this problem.

Freelander sounds like a lawnmower and significant power loss, cuts off at idle. Got 1471 & 1472 codes with a couple of misfire codes. Replaced both VIS motors, no change. Strange thing: When I pulled the top VIS, the arm wiggled and I couldn't feel confident about the line up with the VIS and the arm. Also, there was oil inside the intake manifold and on the old VIS motors (not pouring, just wet). Is this normal?

The intake manifold already had the notorious butterfly rattle. This new problem (lawnmower with no power) happened all of the sudden a couple of days ago.
Will getting a new intake manifold deal with this problem? Could the old VIS still be good since there was no change with the replacements? Is there anything I should know before I fix it (e.g., don't run it, etc.)? I don't want to make things worse.

Thanks

 

I picked up the new manifold today, and took off the dead one. Got to the rear spark plugs and pulled a destroyed ignition coil. There's oil on the park plugs that I was able to get out. Hoping to get it all cleaned up when I do the gaskets. Anyone have a suggestion on how to get a spark plug out of the hole? It's stuck, I'm guessing because of the burned rubber from the coil. ??? Any other notes?

Thanks

 

get some penetrating oil and spray a little down there... you dont want to strip those threads. as to the oil in the manifold, yeah, its pretty commen and nothing to really worry about, the pcv system on these engines doesnt really work well. as long as it was just kinda wet and not a big puddle, its fine.

 

Thanks Dave.
I got it changed out, Intake chamber, both intake gaskets, had to do the valve cover gaskets, too. Got the new ignition coil and it appears the spark plug wasn't screwed down tight and must have loosened up during operation.
Just got it all put back together last night with the new intake manifold, and it's running smooth and quiet. No smoke or shaking, so I must've done alright for a girl. :-/
Now the check engine light is still on, and the idle rpms are slightly low. Not sure what to do there. When coasting and the rpms fall under 2k, the rpms drop rapidly and the truck slows down significantly. This is different... (?)

Thanks for the info. Happy to be driving it again.

 

drive it for a week or so and see if this changes, might just need to learn how to run correctly again. if its still doing this after a couple hundered miles, let us know and we'll help you get to the bottom of it. and yeah, id say that is good for a girl, i know mechanics that have trouble with these things