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Hi folks, newby q: Just bought a 04 Disco 2 days ago. Everything works great, but the horn doesn't work at all.
Took a look at the fuse box under the hood and checked fuse 16 is ok - got that from the owners manual. However a relay is missing. That struck me as "not as designed"
On the picture below the missing relay is R14 (ignore the arrow - I just grabbed the pic off of the web). Could that be the issue. Would I have another issue? Is the missing realy for a feature my Disco doesn't have?
R14 is for the Active Cornering Enhancement (ACE) option. Does your power steering reservoir have one cap, or two? If only one cap, then you don't have this option.
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2000 Disco II 113,000 miles
Maintenance: 60K service with BG fluids, front drive shaft rebuild, Denso iridium plugs, front O2 sensors, Akebono ceramics front and rear with new rotors, belt tensioner and idlers, brake fluid and coolant flushed every two years- regardless of miles
Upgrades: OEM brushguard and driving lights, 04 CDL, extended rear axle breather, DI wiper arms, heated seat kit, grey painted chalkboard headliner
These trucks were sold in every country on earth and things are left blank on purpose depending on where it was sold.
First thing you need to do it test the horn itself.
Next would be the horn buttons, it is very common for the springs under the buttons to short out and set off the horn at 3am.
The owner then removes the springs and puts the buttons back so as not to have 2 holes in the steering wheel.
So press the horn buttons, do they feel "springy"? Or are they just "dead" or "flat"?
Do you have another car?
Remove your horn and hook it up to the other car, does it sound?
If you dont have another car you can buy a horn at any auto parts store for cheap, install it and see if it works.
It does not need to be a Land Rover horn, horns are universal.
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Our fleet:
1960 Morris Minor Pick up (right hand drive)
The Tartus: 95 Disco with a full wilderness roof rack, 4 PIA lights on the rack, brush guard, with 2 fog lights, rear tail light guard, 2in Todco lift, Rhino Painted the cargo area, 5 Pro Comp 33in Mud Terrain Tires %75 tread, diff skid plate, and I'm only 18 ....
Bipolar: 2000 p38 Range Rover Brush guard, rear lamp guard, new grill, coil suspension.
Getting to the horn requires removing the grill, which isn't too bad. I just jumped mine straight to the battery to test mine. Since I tested both and replaced one of my horns years ago, I had to consult RAVE to remember if the horns were self grounding: they are not. They actually receive continuous voltage from the battery, and pressing the horn button grounds them, completing the circuit.
So, to test the horns, use two jumper wires, one ground, one hot.
It could also be the horn relay F16. Check it as well.
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2000 Disco II 113,000 miles
Maintenance: 60K service with BG fluids, front drive shaft rebuild, Denso iridium plugs, front O2 sensors, Akebono ceramics front and rear with new rotors, belt tensioner and idlers, brake fluid and coolant flushed every two years- regardless of miles
Upgrades: OEM brushguard and driving lights, 04 CDL, extended rear axle breather, DI wiper arms, heated seat kit, grey painted chalkboard headliner
The newer Disco 2 saw the error of their ways and converted back to the grounded horn. Fuse 16 underhood runs to relay 13 (one with your original arrow). Unplug relay, use a jumper, across what would be pins 30 and 87 on the relay base, and horns should honk, 24 hour power. Horns have separate earths (ground points). As mentioned, replacement horns can be from a variety of sources.
Would like you to get this fixed, they are louder than your final scream of "Oh ....." before impact with police car, attorney's wife's car, kid on bike, hot babe on skates, old guy in an electric scooter with a small muddy green oval glued on the side, or a weak defensless Jeep.....
Horn not working
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