ignition switch???
#11
06-20-2010, 10:29 AM
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Won't start?
Apply power to fuse 17 ( 10amp facia fuse box) If the vehicle cranks, your ignition switch is bad. If it does not, go to the starter relay, after that the starter solenoid and after that the starter motor. It's a very simple process to eliminate the components one by one. ibis1
#12
06-22-2010, 04:27 PM
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Hey Ibis, Thanks for the tip. Heres what I did: Connected jumper cable to pos (+) battery terminal, clamped opposite end on a screwdriver, pulled fuse 17. I touched the fuse slot with the tip of the screwdriver with key in off position and nothing happened. Turned key to on (2nd) position then touched the fuse slot with the end of the screwdriver and it started. Is this a bad switch? Thanks again!!!
#13
06-23-2010, 07:43 AM
Put on another starter
Hey rebelman,
I saw the ignition switch on AB as well. I really want to isolate the issue before I start throwing parts at it and hope it fixes it. I put some graphite in the keyhole, I figured it can't hurt, but I haven't driven it enough to really test it out. Daytime temp here was around 97 so it was definitely hot enough if heat is part of the problem. Another thing showed up while driving at highway speed. Without moving my foot from the gas pedal the engine seems to "slow down" momentarily like when you take your foot off the pedal then suddenly return to sounding and running normally. Who knows what this could be. I'm going to stop by Autozone tomorrow and have them scan the computer and see what comes up.
As far as the ignition switch, I saw the electrical part of the switch on the column with 4 wires coming out of it. I'm going to test the voltage across all 4 and in all 3 position of the key just to see if there is anything inconsistent. I have a gut feeling it is the problem but I want to be sure. I am also thinking about eliminating that and using a push button start. It probably would be pretty easy but I have to wait and see.
I'll post results of the scan at Autozone.
Geoff
I saw the ignition switch on AB as well. I really want to isolate the issue before I start throwing parts at it and hope it fixes it. I put some graphite in the keyhole, I figured it can't hurt, but I haven't driven it enough to really test it out. Daytime temp here was around 97 so it was definitely hot enough if heat is part of the problem. Another thing showed up while driving at highway speed. Without moving my foot from the gas pedal the engine seems to "slow down" momentarily like when you take your foot off the pedal then suddenly return to sounding and running normally. Who knows what this could be. I'm going to stop by Autozone tomorrow and have them scan the computer and see what comes up.
As far as the ignition switch, I saw the electrical part of the switch on the column with 4 wires coming out of it. I'm going to test the voltage across all 4 and in all 3 position of the key just to see if there is anything inconsistent. I have a gut feeling it is the problem but I want to be sure. I am also thinking about eliminating that and using a push button start. It probably would be pretty easy but I have to wait and see.
I'll post results of the scan at Autozone.
Geoff
I ordered a rebuilt starter from NAPA which was cheapest. So far so good. LR is cranking faster than ever. I have not driven it much yet but will test more in a few days. Seems like the starter was the problem. Solenoid was getting too hot to engage the starter after several starts on a hot day. Glad I got a warning sign and did not get stranded.
#14
06-23-2010, 08:37 PM
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Hey Rebelman,
Great news! I'm glad you seem to have a handle on it. If you read the post that ibis wrote about testing the switch then relay then solenoid etc. This is what I did and if I did it correctly I have a bad ignition switch. I did find the source of the smoke coming out of the steering column. There is a microswitch on the ignition switch that turns on the key alarm/headlight alarm. I want to just cut the wires going to it and do without it but I don't know if it could be part of the vehicle security system. At the same time I am searching the net to find a reasonably priced complete ignition switch. Atlantic British has one for $569.00 but thats more than I paid for the whole Rover so I have to pass. Keep me posted on how your starter is holding up.
Geoff
Great news! I'm glad you seem to have a handle on it. If you read the post that ibis wrote about testing the switch then relay then solenoid etc. This is what I did and if I did it correctly I have a bad ignition switch. I did find the source of the smoke coming out of the steering column. There is a microswitch on the ignition switch that turns on the key alarm/headlight alarm. I want to just cut the wires going to it and do without it but I don't know if it could be part of the vehicle security system. At the same time I am searching the net to find a reasonably priced complete ignition switch. Atlantic British has one for $569.00 but thats more than I paid for the whole Rover so I have to pass. Keep me posted on how your starter is holding up.
Geoff
#15
06-24-2010, 05:12 PM
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Ignition switch
Hey Rebelman,
Great news! I'm glad you seem to have a handle on it. If you read the post that ibis wrote about testing the switch then relay then solenoid etc. This is what I did and if I did it correctly I have a bad ignition switch. I did find the source of the smoke coming out of the steering column. There is a microswitch on the ignition switch that turns on the key alarm/headlight alarm. I want to just cut the wires going to it and do without it but I don't know if it could be part of the vehicle security system. At the same time I am searching the net to find a reasonably priced complete ignition switch. Atlantic British has one for $569.00 but thats more than I paid for the whole Rover so I have to pass. Keep me posted on how your starter is holding up.
Geoff
Great news! I'm glad you seem to have a handle on it. If you read the post that ibis wrote about testing the switch then relay then solenoid etc. This is what I did and if I did it correctly I have a bad ignition switch. I did find the source of the smoke coming out of the steering column. There is a microswitch on the ignition switch that turns on the key alarm/headlight alarm. I want to just cut the wires going to it and do without it but I don't know if it could be part of the vehicle security system. At the same time I am searching the net to find a reasonably priced complete ignition switch. Atlantic British has one for $569.00 but thats more than I paid for the whole Rover so I have to pass. Keep me posted on how your starter is holding up.
Geoff
Why do you think you need an entire switch assy? Does the key not turn smoothly? You can pick up the electrical part for $100.00. Do I understand you correctly, the vehicle would not start and you applied power to fuse 17 and the vehicle started? If so it is the switch. The only other wires on that lock assy. are for the key surround light, the key interlock solenoid and the key in switch, there is nothing to effect your alarm/security system. ibis1
#16
06-24-2010, 05:34 PM
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ibis1,
Maybe I am having trouble explaining. After my Rover gets hot that is normal driving around town etc. it will not crank. That is when I turn the key, I get the radio, a/c fan, lights (battery is 6 months old) but when I turn the key to the start position, nothing happens. It doesnt do the "solenoid click" like when the battery is weak or anything like that. If I wait about 30 minutes it usually starts up again then will run a little rough or sometimes stall out until I get it in gear and start moving. Then it seems to run fine. All along my gut feeling was the starter solenoid since it is so close to the exhaust pipe and solenoids seem to go bad over time and heat is bad for them.
When I did the test you recommended it was cold and would start with the ignition key. I then turned it off and turned the key to the on position and applied power to fuse 17 and it started. Does this mean all I did was bypass the ignition switch and I did not really find the problem?
Thanks,
Geoff
Maybe I am having trouble explaining. After my Rover gets hot that is normal driving around town etc. it will not crank. That is when I turn the key, I get the radio, a/c fan, lights (battery is 6 months old) but when I turn the key to the start position, nothing happens. It doesnt do the "solenoid click" like when the battery is weak or anything like that. If I wait about 30 minutes it usually starts up again then will run a little rough or sometimes stall out until I get it in gear and start moving. Then it seems to run fine. All along my gut feeling was the starter solenoid since it is so close to the exhaust pipe and solenoids seem to go bad over time and heat is bad for them.
When I did the test you recommended it was cold and would start with the ignition key. I then turned it off and turned the key to the on position and applied power to fuse 17 and it started. Does this mean all I did was bypass the ignition switch and I did not really find the problem?
Thanks,
Geoff
#17
06-24-2010, 07:20 PM
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Ignition switch
ibis1,
Maybe I am having trouble explaining. After my Rover gets hot that is normal driving around town etc. it will not crank. That is when I turn the key, I get the radio, a/c fan, lights (battery is 6 months old) but when I turn the key to the start position, nothing happens. It doesnt do the "solenoid click" like when the battery is weak or anything like that. If I wait about 30 minutes it usually starts up again then will run a little rough or sometimes stall out until I get it in gear and start moving. Then it seems to run fine. All along my gut feeling was the starter solenoid since it is so close to the exhaust pipe and solenoids seem to go bad over time and heat is bad for them.
When I did the test you recommended it was cold and would start with the ignition key. I then turned it off and turned the key to the on position and applied power to fuse 17 and it started. Does this mean all I did was bypass the ignition switch and I did not really find the problem?
Thanks,
Geoff
Maybe I am having trouble explaining. After my Rover gets hot that is normal driving around town etc. it will not crank. That is when I turn the key, I get the radio, a/c fan, lights (battery is 6 months old) but when I turn the key to the start position, nothing happens. It doesnt do the "solenoid click" like when the battery is weak or anything like that. If I wait about 30 minutes it usually starts up again then will run a little rough or sometimes stall out until I get it in gear and start moving. Then it seems to run fine. All along my gut feeling was the starter solenoid since it is so close to the exhaust pipe and solenoids seem to go bad over time and heat is bad for them.
When I did the test you recommended it was cold and would start with the ignition key. I then turned it off and turned the key to the on position and applied power to fuse 17 and it started. Does this mean all I did was bypass the ignition switch and I did not really find the problem?
Thanks,
Geoff
To correctly diagnose this issue, you must test the suspected components when the vehicle is "not" cranking. Otherwise you have not isolated the problem. The ignition switch applies power to fuse 17 when in the "crank" position. If you have a test light, you can use it to see if you have power at that fuse in the crank position. If you do have power there and "no crank" it's not the ignition switch,go to the next component (starter relay) and so on. I hope your understanding what I'm trying to explain. ibis1
#18
07-01-2010, 09:51 PM
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Ok so I ordered a new starter. In attempting to remove the old starter I sort of rounded out the inside of one of the mounting bolts. Luckily its the bottom one and if I have to I can get a pair of vice grips on the head and hopefully back it out. Had to stop for the night though, I was starting to see little green men running across the driveway and laughing at me!
Hey did anyone know that Land Rovers leak oil? Mine does! Ok sorry for the sarcasm, I will be hopefully finishing up with the starter on Saturday and I'll post the results. Thanks all for your advice!!!
Hey did anyone know that Land Rovers leak oil? Mine does! Ok sorry for the sarcasm, I will be hopefully finishing up with the starter on Saturday and I'll post the results. Thanks all for your advice!!!
#19
05-10-2012, 07:25 AM
I'm a brand new user and having been spending the last three months fixing a 96 Range Rover 4.0. I love my Range but it gets a little tricky sometimes diagnosing. This site has already helped me out a bunch so I'm hoping it can get my Range going again. I have been having the same issue at normal temp when I turn off and fire back up it stalls and putters for awhile than will go back to normal when in gear. Last night it called it quits and won't turn over at all no solenoid click either. Accessories still come on but no engine crank. Did you ever figure out what was the issue? Hoping you guys can save me again because it's currently sitting in a mall parking lot. I hope I can fix it instead of tow it. Range Rovers don't look good being towed.
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