I called Advance and they said the Neapco 1-0005 has been discontinued. Is there another replacement that is suitable? I believe these to be the originals. I will have to make sure though. Assuming these are original, I would need 3 U joints total and the additional CV Kit for the front, correct?

I also know I will need the grease and grease gun. Just wanted to make sure I get it all down correctly. I am new to the LR world. Thank you all so much in advance!

Kevin

 

Read the OP.

 

Just a quick update...

I just picked up the Neapco/ PDQ made in the USA 1-0005 U Joints from my local advance auto here in NYC. They don't carry them in the store, but they do have a bunch in their Lehigh warehouse, I think the count is 69 after my order of 3. They sell for $12.29 or something like this.

 

I just stopped at Advance and the clerk couldnt find the NEAPCOs by part number. So, I then asked her to look up a 2003 Disco,....and she again said "no Neapco". I then asked her to look up a 93 Volvo 240 series which I had read cross referenced,....and she did find a Neapco,....and guess what, it was the 1-0005. Go figure. I ordered 4 plus the Neapco centering ball kit. Should be here Friday by 11:00

Brian in Austin

 

let us know how that worked out pics would be nice to see if there are any differences

 

Got the joints. They are the correct PDQ/Neapco joints that Tom specified. I did have to ask the clerk to look up a 93 Volvo 240 series as one of the other threads linked by Tom di specify.

Brian

 

The front single joint went OK using my bench vise and sockets.

That was yesterday. Today, I've now had 4 goes at trying to push out the bearing caps on the double Cardan. First I tried the middle joint, then tried the joint at the back of the shaft/Double Cardan. I can't press the u joints far enough to expose the end of a bearing cup, which would allow me to grab it and remove it with pump pliers or vise grips. Because the two joints are connected by the centering ball, they get bound up as I start pushing the joint to one side or the other. I have also tried pushing both of the double cardan joints in the same direction at the same time and then tried pushing one in one direction and the other in the opposite direction,.............still not enough of a bearing cup exposed to grab it with vise grips etc.

Now feeling I would have happily spent $100-$150 to have this all done by a shop,....but....its late friday,....and suspect the local shops are closed on saturday.

Any suggestions?

 

Using a brass, plastic dead blow or wooden mallet whack the yoke next to the bearing cap, the one on the side where you're whacking it will come out. Don't use a steel hammer.

 

I've actualy been working on the bearing cap in the H. Not sure how how rapping on the yoke with a dead blow would get a cap that wont move with a vise and socket to pop out.

Maybe Im misunderstanding. Are you whacking the yoke with the shaft out of the vise, or still in the vise with pressure on the caps? I tried it with the shaft out of the vise,.....no change.

So, I decided to put it back in the vise and try to push the u joint bearing caps out on the yoke, at the middle u joint. couldn't get those to move more than a hair......turned it over to try to push it the other way,....and nothing, it wouldn' move at all. So,.....stupid me,....I got my cheater pipe out and started crankin on it,.........thinking I would probably blow up my bench vise.................and..........that's exactly what happened. So, tomorrow it off to buy another vise.

 

When I did the cardan ones on mine, I believe I would push one cap as far as it would go, then start to press out one of the caps perpendicular to it. This would free up the first one to get the cap pressed out all the way.