Kevin,

Sorry to hear that your still fighting the fight.

For reference here are the part numbers for the batter cable and clamp

Part Number: LR017335 positive cable 2008-12 cost about $100

Part Number: LR002164 positive term 2008-12 cost about $13

I typically buy parts like this from Merriam

Just in case you want to just replace the cable (I know the Volvo guy re-routed instead of replacing)

If I get a chance I'll measure the voltage drop while starting and post it here.

Good luck

Paul

 

Kevin,

Here are my results for the voltage drops for your reference

I removed the fuse for the fuel pump so that my LR2 wouldn't start it will only crank

Battery voltage (initial) 12.25 Volts

Battery voltage (cranking) 10.97 Volts (less than 9 Volts, replace the battery)

Voltage drop (cranking) B+ post to exposed copper on the cable .047 Volts

Voltage drop (cranking) B+ post to alternator cable .240 volts

Voltage drop (cranking) B- post to valve cover .381 Volts

As a general rule the total voltage drop (excluding the starter) should be less than 1 Volt

In my case .047 + .240 + .381 = .668 Volts total drop (not including the starter)

A good target is .3 Volts for the positive and .3 volts for the negative

In my case positive side is .287 volts and negative is .381 volts

If its not clear where I made the measurement let me know and I'll take some pictures

Good Luck

Paul

 

Hi Paul,
Thanks so much for keeping me in mind. I have friends that wouldn't even do that for me. Id love to buy you a beer OR coffee one day.
Driving me nuts this little Orange thing!
Checked the power cable to starter and someone has already rerouted it.
Recently the CKPS code P0336 has vanished after resets... I'm sure it will be back
Still getting P0300, P0301 P0302 P0305 P0306. No 3+4 cyl has gotta mean something??? Swapped coils and it didn't matter....
I will measure my voltage drops once I can get the vehicle from my wife for the day.
Thanks again buddy, will advise.
Absolutely positive it only messes up on hot starts. Asked my wife and it's NEVER had the slightest issue going to or coming home from work. Both are cold starts.
Kevin

 

Kevin,

If you find yourself in San Jose Ca I will take you up on that Beer.

I don't make it to Boston very often (I think that you are in Boston) occasionally I come to the east cost to visit my family in upstate New York.

If you get a chance send me an email and I will send you my old fuel pump relay (I replaced it but I didn't notice any difference)

Email (you will need to decode so that I don't get spammed to death)

P_F_Gill enter the symbol for "at" then hotmail and .com

Remember all of your problems could be fuel pressure related.

And the fuel pressure is controlled by the ECU so a voltage problem could result in a fuel pressure problem.

I really want to know what you do to fix the problem, when you do I will preemptively replace the same parts on my LR2.

Good luck

Paul

 

Hi Paul,
Here's an update. I replaced all relays as you advised.

But here is what I believe was causing my issue(s):
I was doing an oil change so I got under there and decided to poke around a bit. What did I have to lose?

I found the connector to the passenger downstream O2 sensor wires partially melted and pretty frayed. It must have been swapped out at some point. Looks like when they reinstalled it; whomever didn't secure it properly as to be far enough away from the heat of the converter. I couldn't find the harness side of the connector anywhere. Not even sure they sell it. Decided that even in the event that I was able to locate one, id have to splice it in anyway.

Here's what I did:
4 wires total, 2 were screwed
I left the 2 good ones in the connector and cut the 2 that were bad. direct splice with solder, heat shrink and a bunch of electrical tape. affixed it with wire ties far enough away from the converter so as to no longer be exposed to such heat.

For the love of all things good, I don't want to jinx myself but the lights have been off for close to 3 weeks.

I gotta believe that was my culprit. Pretty sure the vehicle doesn't use O2 data on a cold start and that would explain my warm start issue?

For some strange reason if that doesn't permanently fix it, it has to be something to do with the A/C because that's the one thing she hasn't used since the light has been out.

There's the update... keeping all my fingers toes, eyes etc crossed.

Please let me know the next time you will be in the area and I will do the same.

I used to have a home office in Santa Clara. Sold the base material for printed circuit boards. What a beautiful area. Miss it immensely.

Thanks a million for sticking with me on this.
Kevin

 

Kevin,

Congratulations that's a great catch.

I will check the routing of my O2 sensor cable the next time I am under the car.

Its a small world I also work in the electronic industry my experience is more on the Assembly than on Fabrication but I do get involved in both (at least specifying).

I've been in Cali for 16 years. My current employer is in Sunnyvale, so i drive past the home of the Forty-Niners in Santa Clara every day.

For most of my life I lived in New York (Up-State and Long Island). I don't miss the cold. But I do miss the colors of the leaves this time of year.


Let me know if your coming to the Bay Area and I'll buy you a beer, you deserve one for the patience you have shown.

Later

Paul

 

O2 Sensors may operate in a very narrow voltage range, so the resistance of the wire can be critical. If it's four wires, two of them are most likely for the element heater which would not be sensitive to a little extra resistance.

But if the damaged wires are for the sensor, I might be inclined to replace it with the OEM part.

 

Kevin
did​​​​did you ever get this resolved? My son and daughter-in-law just purchased the 2008 LR2 and on the way home from the buy here pay here it started having these issues they are so upset and not sure what to do dealership will not do anything to help any information be greatly appreciated.

Ray

 

Ray,

Do you have more details of the problem your having.

How do you know its a misfire? Flashing check Engine Light? Code reader?

When does the problem occur during

- cold start

- hot start

- Idle

- climbing a hill

- other

Do you have a code reader? If yes then what codes are stored?

If you do have a code reader does is give you real time data? Do you know the fuel trims? ST and LT?

Possible sources for a misfire problem

- fouled spark plugs

- broken coil

- faulty fuel pump relay, fuse or control module

- fuel pressure sensor faulty

- clogged fuel filter (its part of the fuel pump)

- broken PCV valve

- Bad Mass Air Flow meter

- Oxygen sensor problem (This was Kevin's problem)

- Clogged catalytic converter

if you can provide more info and I will try to help with the fix

For reference the LR2 is the most reliable car that I've owned.

Good luck

Paul

 

put in new plugs , engine still missing . It throws black moist product out the exhaust when I rev the motor .