Kevin,

If you get a chance you should check the vacuum pump for leaks also. Note: its driven by the intake camshaft, located on the back of the engine near the accessory drive (I had to look it up, i couldn't find it without a map)


Dave,

Thanks for the tip.

Except for the hot restart issue all of my other issues are fixed.

Note: the hot restart issue will only occur if I leave the key docked and allow the LR2 to sit for several minuted. If I remove the key and re-dock it will start normally.



I did check the vacuum pump and it was reasonably clean (for an 8 year old vehicle)

I will put it on the jack and check from underneath.

No oil is needed between changes (6500 miles) so it not leaking a lot.



As for the fuel pump priming vs not running I bought a meter that will measure the current going to the fuel pump module. To use it I only have to remove the correct fuse and plug in the meter.

I did check normal starting and the meter initially shows no current when the start button is pressed and the starter motor engages before the fuel pump. The time delay is about 1/10 of a second then the meter shows about 5 amps and the engine starts immediately.

My suspicion is that the software doesn't run the pump but without watching the current during starting I can't rule out that the pump gets primed and then shuts off.

Thanks for the help

Paul

 

Sincerely appreciate all the input Dave and Paul. Reassuring to know I have others with vastly more knowledge guiding me.

Just finished replacing plugs. Engine light went out on its own yesterday.... before replacing. I think I'm gonna clear just to start fresh.

I'm gonna have a peek at fuses after dinner. Will advise.
Best
Kevin

 

Dave,

I think that I am in the clear for the Vacuum pump leak for now (picture attached)

I will continue to check it every oil change


Kevin,

Take a look at the pictures and you can compare to your vacuum pump


Good Luck

Paul

 

UPDATE:
Wife and I were discussing that the light has been out for a week tomorrow.
Hooked up cptr and no codes pending, everything looked good...

Guess what I did when I checked the CPTR for codes???
I left key docked while I was checking it.

Started it up...ran a little choppy but I figured it would settle down once I got going. 10 min round trip and it felt like it was running on 4 cylinders the whole time.

Got home and realized that by leaving the key docked as I read the codes, I did the same thing as you explained. Hot soak dock of key too long prior to start.

Went through the correct process and started it immediately after docking key. Ran perfectly fine. Drove around the neighborhood and throttle response completely normal???

Got home, checked cptr again and I only have one code pending for a Cylinder 1 misfire.
No light mind you, just pending.

Damn...thought I had it solved but it seems like we have the exact same issue Paul! Frustrated.....

Next, I'll check vacuum pump and fuses/relays.

Something else I was able to get out of my scan tool...not sure if its relevant but when I attempt an EVAP Test, scan tool says failed? This is a specific test I have to run with the scan tool..Again no check engine light or code for it. Just a test my tool says I can run...Usually if the tool wont do it, it will say unsupported.

I will attempt to let the key dock for a few min before I start it when the wife gets home.......check if I can replicate. Pretty sure I'll be able.

Something else to note: If I leave the scan tool plugged in for too long without starting, it will stop receiving data from Rover. Like the Rover CPTR boots the tool.

Best
Kevin

 

Kevin

I'm surprised that you can run for 10 minutes.

I docked my key and let is sit for 30 minutes and it wouldn't start at all.

I checked the fuel pressure using my OBDII reader and it showed 3 psi while cranking over

Then I verified that no current was being drawn by the module for the fuel pump. (I removed the 20 amp fuse located in the passenger compartment)


This is what i used for testing

ESI 305M 30 Amp Fuse Buddy Mini Tester


Because the circuit wasn't drawing any current this means that the pump is not running. (it draws about 5 Amps normally)

Based on what i've read I think that the module that drives the pump gets a signal from the ecu to turn on. (CAN bus request)

The fact that it didn't turn on may be a software problem or a communication problem or it may be a problem with the module but in my case I've ruled out the fuel pressure sending unit as well as the relays and the fuses that get the power to the fuel pump module.


The good news is that now you know what causes the rough running.

If you get the software updated let me know.

Good Luck

Paul

PS now that I know what causes the problem my LR2 never runs rough unless I force it to by leaving the key docked for diagnostic reasons like I did today

 

Kevin and anyone else that gets this far in the chain.

Follow this simple rule to prevent the rough running

- if you press the stop button then un-dock the key, always!

This is what i've been doing and my LR2 never runs rough unless I don't follow the rule.

Happy Motoring

Paul

PS My LR2 does have the P010 recall completed so I should have the new software. Having said that if I lived closer to Dave (roverguy7) I would bring it to him to trouble shoot.

 

Thought you got rid of me did ya?
All codes still remain. Went to Boston the other night and it took 3 times pulling over to get the thing out of "funk" mode. Was a little nervous we might not make it home.

Vacuum Pump Looks Clean.
CPK is back P0336
along with the previous ones, P0300 P0301 P0302 P0305 P0306

Do you think it's possible that the CPK sensor was intermittently bad upon installation?
Still need to eventually change fuses and relays....this thing is driving me nuts.

Wouldn't you know my SUV needs repairs too...Oh the joy!

Tnx Guys :-)
Kevin

 

Kevin,


It looks like your Crankshaft Position Sensor is not working.


This is a small inexpensive part that mounted to the transmission.


I searched for my LR2 (2008 3.2 SE automatic) and found


LR030200


You will need to confirm that this is the correct part number for your year and model.


Here is a video showing the replacement of the sensor on a Volvo.




I'll look for the location of the part tonight and take some pictures and post them here.


It doesn't look hard to replace, just a 10 mm bolt and a plug to the wiring harness.


Good luck


Paul

 

kevin

I just re-read your post and I see that you already replaced the Cpk sensor

Sorry for the useless suggestion

Paul

 

Not useless at all.
It was replaced a couple months ago just prior to me purchasing... so I have no idea the location. I'm thinking access under air box like in the video you provided. Very well could be a bad part. Worth trying to replace one more time.
I'll also get in there and have a peek at the connection(s)

Read on a Volvo forum that the Crank sensor wire could be wrapped around some other wires and that can cause interference with crank sensor signal...??

Also read that it isn't a bad idea to add an additional ground from Negative Battery to Starter Motor Bolt.

I am lost when it comes to this thing??
What stinks is there isn't a ton of information on the net regarding repair.
Wish I'd hit the lottery so I could just drop it off at the dealer and stop worrying about it!

My Envoy can be ripped apart and put back together bolt by bolt and there are videos and explanations everywhere. Anyway, ill keep plugging away. Get there eventually!

Tnx