Kevin

I did take a look to see if I could find the sensor

I removed the engine cover and the air filter housing

Unfortunately I didn't see the sensor

I think it's under the air conditioning compressor

I'll post here if I find it

Sorry I couldn't help more

Thanks

Paul

 

Paul, you've gone way above and beyond in reference to helping with this and I sincerely appreciate it. Previous owner paid 100 a few days into my wife test driving it to replace ckps. While the misfires came back, the P0336 went away for the better part of 2 months. Ordered another sensor. Will be in Friday. Also going to order relays and fuses today for R+R...will advise.
Thanks again!
Kevin

 

kevin

Hopefully the Sensor solves your issues

I did a little research and it looks like the sensor is accessed from below (I couldn't find it from above)

I don't know if it's possible but if you can inspect the fly wheel with the magnets on it that the sensor gets its signal from (a small mirror may be helpful)


Below is a link that might be helpful

Quote: The root cause may involve a faulty CKP, or an issue with the reluctor wheel (damaged or missing teeth or metallic contaminants on the teeth), a dislodged reluctor wheel or, obviously, a short or open in the wiring harness

http://www.autoserviceprofessional.c...e-surge?Page=2


Good luck

Paul

 

I guess what scared me was my inability to get it out of "funk/stumble mode" on the recent Boston trip. That's was the first time a restart didn't immediately correct the issue since I bought it...

Usually if it stumbles: pull over shut down, remove key, re-insert key and start and runs fine the remainder of the drive. In Boston, that wouldn't work for some reason?

Something else I noticed when I couldn't get it out of stumble mode. The brake pedal when initially pressed to start, makes it's own clicking noise in the passenger floor area. when it wouldn't correct itself, no clicking noise was taking place. This thing clicks like you read about over in the passenger floor area. 2-3 clicks when key remote is inserted, followed by a click with the brake pedal......I've almost gotten used of them so when one doesn't happen, I notice.

Crank Sensor was difficult to get at but I replaced it. Had to get at it from underneath as you advised. Minimal room to R+R with my fat forearms...lol

Was feeling positive because it seemed to start better, idle better etc...
Next day, all codes return...P0300, P0301,P0302, P0305, P0306, P0336
Good God is this thing driving me nuts.

Next up, relays and fuses and additional ground from negative battery to starter.
After that, I guess I'll start saving for the dealer trip....

Man do I hate to admit defeat.

Thanks again for your help guys!

Kevin

 

Kevin,

That is terrible news.

I did check the Voltage on my LR2 today and it is very close to what you posted. (I checked this because a low voltage condition could cause exactly the types of problems that you are seeing)

My LR2 this morning

14.1V +/- 0.1V cruising above 1500 RPMs
14.0V +/- 0.05V at Idle

Note: this is what the ECU is reporting, I didn't measure the voltage with a Volt meter.


Swapping out fuses and relays will help if the contact resistance is too high or if the relay is not stable.

Note: the crank sensor isn't fused so it is unlikely that the fuses and relays will cure your misfire condition.

Did you change the spark plugs?

Which plugs did you use?

When was the last time that you changed the battery?


I saw that your going to install an extra earth wire between battery (-) and ???

I do recommend that you check the voltage drop.

If it is above about 0.3V then and extra earth lead will help.

Possible areas to check

Battery (-) to alternator housing

Battery (-) to transmission housing

Battery (-) to starter bolts

Battery (-) to chassis ground points


Battery (+) to Positive connection on the back of the alternator


Good Luck

Paul

 

Replaced the plugs with Denzo, same as you.
Haven't changed battery yet. But I will look more closely at it and check for voltage drops as you stated,

Was reading on a freelander forum that running a extra earth strap from the negative battery cable to a starter bolts will correct some demonic possessions. :-) There was a pretty large thread on it.

Completely positive on the clicking when pressing the brake and limp mode. If it doesn't click in the passenger floor area when in the process of starting, limp mode ensues. Get the click and she runs well.

Looked at the old crank sensor I removed and no scratches or dents. (Heard that sometimes if theres an issue it will be noticible on the sensor.

Wish I could follow the wires but it's so tight in there kinda impossible. Feels almost like they run into a metal tube up the back of the motor.
Would kinda make sense, if it were a ground issue I guess?

I'll update once I have more info. Thanks Paul and hope you have a great weekend!

 

Kevin,

I checked the wiring diagram and I found the following

Ground connection for the ignition coils for Cylinder 1,3,5 is separate from the connection for 2,4,6

Also 1,3,5 has a capacitor connected to the ground

Unfortunately your problem isn't isolated to 1,3,5 or 2,4,6


Further searching revealed that the power to the ignition coils is switched by relay #2 and Fused by a 20A fuse

Relay #2 is one of the Relays that I replaced (see my other post) and I replaced all of the Fuses

Changing the Relay and the Fuses may help your problem

Good luck

Paul

PS if you want me to measure the capacitor I can for comparison, just let me know (but it is unlikely that this is your problem, capacitor is for 1,3,5 and your misfire is 1,2,5,6)

 

Kevin,

its been a few months so hopefully your problem is fixed

I did come across a volvo post with similar symptoms

Won't Start fix - Volvo Forums - Volvo Enthusiasts Forum


Won't Start fix
...replacing Crankshaft sensors, starts, camshaft sensors, battery, checking all grounds to the engine and coils, with only changing out the starter that helped a little, I finally figured out what was causing the problem.......

......The cause is the Power cable that runs from the jumper terminal under the hood to the starter. This cable runs directly over the crankshaft sensor (4-5 inches above) and next to the camshaft sensor......

.......The fix is simple: Disconnect this power line at the jumper terminal (under the hood) and at the starter and replace it with a new line that runs around the air filter box away from the sensors. The car will start every time......

As I said hopefully you don't need this fix

Paul

 

The dealer found and corrected this when they did my rear diff (88K). I didn't notice any electrical/starting issues though.

 

Thanks so much for keeping me in mind Paul..... Still having intermittent stumbling issues and CEL.. I'll have a peek at that cable this weekend...would make a lot of sense!