LR2 Trailer wiring kit help!!!
#41
My LR2 is a 2013.
I ordered another hitch and this one too rubbed against the bumber slightly. I took a chance and went ahead and tightened the bolts to the recommended specs. Though the hitch touches the bumbper below the fascia, it seems fine and wont cause damage. Hitch is staying.
Thx
I ordered another hitch and this one too rubbed against the bumber slightly. I took a chance and went ahead and tightened the bolts to the recommended specs. Though the hitch touches the bumbper below the fascia, it seems fine and wont cause damage. Hitch is staying.
Thx
#42
Just washed mine today and was looking at the Hidden Hitch. Mine is a 2010 and the lower section (edge) of bumper just barley touches the hitch in a couple places, but after 2 1/2 years there is no visible damage to the bumper or hitch in these areas. It's solid and I have been off road a lot and have only touched the hitch once. The best part is a lot of money saved and no cutting required.
#43
I've installed the factory wiring kit and went with a Draw-Tite hitch, but have a problem with the wiring kit because it doesn't light up the trailer. The trailer is known to be good with wiring and lights that work fine so it points to my wiring kit in the LR2.
Can anyone confirm that it has to essentially be activated or "turned on" in order for the wiring to work at all? As I understand it, it should work without being activated and all that the programming does is to turn off the backup warning as well as tell you when a light bulb is out in a trailer. I could certainly be wrong about that, but I do not know where to get confirmation of that. I'm sure if I contact a dealer they'll say 'yes you need to get it programmed, bring it in and bring $200.'
I'm trying to eliminate the possibility of a faulty wiring harness or electronics module before I take it to a dealer.
Can anyone confirm that it has to essentially be activated or "turned on" in order for the wiring to work at all? As I understand it, it should work without being activated and all that the programming does is to turn off the backup warning as well as tell you when a light bulb is out in a trailer. I could certainly be wrong about that, but I do not know where to get confirmation of that. I'm sure if I contact a dealer they'll say 'yes you need to get it programmed, bring it in and bring $200.'
I'm trying to eliminate the possibility of a faulty wiring harness or electronics module before I take it to a dealer.
#44
??
I installed mine and had it activated before hooking up a trailer so can't help you there. This is a stupid question, but based on the wonderful instructions.....did you buy and install the 40 amp fuse in the box in the spare tire area? That's the only thing I can think of, but it wouldn't surprise me if the whole thing didn't work until activated.
#45
Yes it needs to be activated the kit doesn't do anything at all without being activated. I hooked mine up after installing the wiring kit and the trailer lights or my test light did not light up.
I actually had a bad kit too which drove my dealer nuts for a day or two. My second kit activated perfectly. but also did not light up the trailer or test light before being activated by the dealer.
It was just $50 for the activation.
I actually had a bad kit too which drove my dealer nuts for a day or two. My second kit activated perfectly. but also did not light up the trailer or test light before being activated by the dealer.
It was just $50 for the activation.
I've installed the factory wiring kit and went with a Draw-Tite hitch, but have a problem with the wiring kit because it doesn't light up the trailer. The trailer is known to be good with wiring and lights that work fine so it points to my wiring kit in the LR2.
Can anyone confirm that it has to essentially be activated or "turned on" in order for the wiring to work at all? As I understand it, it should work without being activated and all that the programming does is to turn off the backup warning as well as tell you when a light bulb is out in a trailer. I could certainly be wrong about that, but I do not know where to get confirmation of that. I'm sure if I contact a dealer they'll say 'yes you need to get it programmed, bring it in and bring $200.'
I'm trying to eliminate the possibility of a faulty wiring harness or electronics module before I take it to a dealer.
Can anyone confirm that it has to essentially be activated or "turned on" in order for the wiring to work at all? As I understand it, it should work without being activated and all that the programming does is to turn off the backup warning as well as tell you when a light bulb is out in a trailer. I could certainly be wrong about that, but I do not know where to get confirmation of that. I'm sure if I contact a dealer they'll say 'yes you need to get it programmed, bring it in and bring $200.'
I'm trying to eliminate the possibility of a faulty wiring harness or electronics module before I take it to a dealer.
Last edited by oliver1071; 08-20-2013 at 06:36 AM.
#46
Thanks for the replies guys. I had it installed properly and had the fuses added in to the fuse box. The wiring kit does in fact need to be activated by the stealership before it will fire up the lights on the trailer.
$135 @ Land Rover of Sudbury, MA for a 15 minute job. Didn't charge it as labor by the hour. Charged flat fee for electronics work. Boo!
$135 @ Land Rover of Sudbury, MA for a 15 minute job. Didn't charge it as labor by the hour. Charged flat fee for electronics work. Boo!
#48
#49
Making the final preps for the trailer and hitch. Decided on the Draw-tite but need couple questions answered:
It looks like you have the shadow chrome wheels...18 or 19"
Do you remember the height to the top of your hitch? My trailer is built but I won't see it until I get back state side. I need the hitch height to figure my rise or drop for the ball mount and your setup looks like it would give me the final measurement I need.
It looks like you have the shadow chrome wheels...18 or 19"
Do you remember the height to the top of your hitch? My trailer is built but I won't see it until I get back state side. I need the hitch height to figure my rise or drop for the ball mount and your setup looks like it would give me the final measurement I need.
#50