Trailer hitch wiring

[jayulzvern]

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the trunk of the LR2? I am installing a aftermarket hitch and found a unused plug laying in the trunk that I think was for the factory hitch. I am looking for a way to tap into these wires for the hitch plug. TIA

[Rovin4life]

Wont work, the wiring is specific to LR and the lights will not work at all and cause all sorts of problems. You need the OEM wiring to get it work cause it includes a module that interacts with the lighting module.

Sorry but its OEM or nothing at all.

[TurboDan]

Originally Posted by Rovin4life

Wont work, the wiring is specific to LR and the lights will not work at all and cause all sorts of problems. You need the OEM wiring to get it work cause it includes a module that interacts with the lighting module.

Sorry but its OEM or nothing at all.

Rovin -- I spoke with a dealer about getting a tow package on my LR2, and he said his personal suggestion would be getting the dealership to do the wiring, then go somewhere else to get the actual hitch/tow bar put on. Is that something that would be feasible?

I actually spoke with two dealerships. One said the whole process (wiring and installing the hitch) took five hours of labor (and honestly, in that case, I'd just say forget it) and the other said about an hour and a half. HUGE difference there. Do you know what the truth is on this one?

[Rovin4life]

pays about two hours, you do have to modify the bumper for the hitch and that also includes the programming.

drop it off, don't wait for it. anything over two hours can take longer as someone may not be available for a bit.

[DeathWind]

Ordered the OEM trailer wiring kit online and installed it myself. Paid dealer 1/2 hour labor to program the module. Programming required to activate module so rear backup sensors turn off when trailer is connected. Then installed a Class III Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver that I ordered from etrailer.com. No cutting of the bumper or any problems installing the Draw-Tite. Everything works great with my 6x12 custom enclosed motorcycle trailer.

OEM Tow Electrics - LR003108
Britcar (UK) Ltd $316.66 - reasonable shipping to US; Draw-Tite $149 + 1/2 hour labor $40 = $516

OEM Prices: Electrics $550.28; Tow hitch kit $776.05; 2-3 hours labor, cutting of bumper, etc = $1400+

One thing to note is if the trailer brake lights are LED. The Land Rover has a pulse that is designed to check bulbs. It casues the LED brakes to pulse. When you turn off vehicle they'll continue to pulse until alarm is set, or auxiliary power turns off.

[douglasson]

I installed my OEM tow hitch and electrics myself. It's intimidating at first glance, but if you're methodical and organized then it's no sweat. I asked REALLY nicely for a printoff of some instructions on how to remove the rear bumper and light pods from my LR Dealer, and my service dep't came through for me. So, I followed the instructions that came with my OEM tow hitch and wiring, and the instructions for removing the rear lights and bumper from the dealership (just message me and I'll send them to you), and it was no trouble! I tried to upload them but it wouldn't accept the .pdf's.

If you're a little comfortable with working inside the back interior panels of the car (just need a $15 panel-popper to do it right), then you can save yourself a couple grand in labor and do it yourself. It took me ALL day though to do it by myself, but saving a couple grand was worth it. I had to pay the dealership for 1/2 hr of labor to program the electrics though, which turns off the back up sensors when pulling a trailer. One thing though: If you're pulling a trailer with very low-draw LED lights, the car won't detect the draw and won't turn off the backup sensor. It will when I'm pulling a trailer with regular glass bulbs though.

You do have to cut a small square out of the bottom of the bumper (maybe 3x4 inches), but there is a supplied paper template to use and it's no trouble. I just traced the template with a sharpie and used my Dremmel tool's router bit and it was easy as pie. If you mees up a little bit, it's no big deal. The angle of the bumper down there, plus the hitch being in the way, makes the cut almost unnoticable unless you really get down there.

That's my two cents. I didn't take pictures. It took me 8 to 10 hours to do in my garage by myslef. Something about cutting holes in your bumper makes you go really slow and with caution! If you'd like pictures of what it looks like NOW, let me know. All the instructions for the accessory kits are available for download (LR002744 FIT) on the LR website so you can get an idea of the process. This was the longest install of all the kits I've put on my car (grille guard, mud flaps, roof rails, tow hitch, tow electrics).

CHeers!

Doug

2012-02-03_08-49-37_902.jpg

[TurboDan]

Can anyone familiar with this stuff comment on these threads in a primarily British LR2 forum:

Freel2.com - View topic - Will LR OEM towbar Electrics work without programming

Freel2.com - View topic - Dedicated Towbar electrics whats the benefit

No matter what I will not pay for that insanely priced OEM hitch, and I'm trying to find a way out of bringing it to the stealership for them to install their electrics. I don't really care if the parking sensors go off when I'm in reverse while towing. It only takes me two seconds to line up and back down a boat ramp with my little boat anyway. I'm a big boy, I can deal with it.

A local trailer place looked up the vehicle and said they have an aftermarket hitch and electrical kit that will work. Again, I have no need for LR's bells and whistles, just want the lights to come on. Apparently this isn't a big deal across the pond. Can anyone comment on aftermarket electrics?