Hi all, picked up my first Land Rover a couple weeks ago. Single owner Tonga Green '06 LR3 HSE with 75K on the clock. Looks to have everything except the HD package as there is no actuator on the rear differential.

The big roof glass is cracked, busted side marker, cracked driver side mirror, tired hood struts, and a lean condition that a replaced MAF and PCV valve (replaced by the dealer who sold the car) didn't resolve.

Ordered a used piece of glass, just replaced air filter, side marker, side mirror, hood struts, and pulled the throttle body to clean things up real good. Sea foamed the intake, reset codes and fuel trims are looking pretty good after 15 miles.

Still researching LR specific software utilities, and it seems there are a number of options out there unlike the Audi/VW world where VCDS is the winner hands down. I'm looking forward to the new challenges and experience of working on this myself. I will use this thread to document service work and any aftermarket updates I may find useful

Looks like there is a great community with a wealth of knowledge and glad to be a part of it.

-Tony

 

Congratulations.

First things to consider doing after you are confident it is running right.

Change Transfer Case, Differential, Transmission fluids. Carefully inspect the drained fluids.
Change Brake Light Switch
Check Cabin Air Filter and Air Filter-- change if needed.

 

Thanks for stopping by and the words of wisdom.

Il do some homework on the fluids and get those changed out before the long trip. Was thinking a hitch to put a carrier on the back would be good place to throw the coolers. Is the general consensus to try and find a used one on the forums or do they not show up very often?

 

I'll have one out in a couple of months.

 

200 miles (city and highway) later and no CEL for fuel trims being out of limit, so Im calling this one solved too. Crawling around underneath with a flashlight, the trans pan is not as dry as it should be.

Looks like that job is a bit more involved than just swapping fluids. Any other enthusiasts tackle this with a set of ramps and a good set of jacks?

 

Welcome to the Forum!

Sounds hopeful that you fixed it after 200 miles. The only thing I'd suggest if you haven't already, pull the throttle body and clean it. My truck wasn't what I would call overly dirty, but it was a couple of screws for air ducting and 4 bolts to pull it down to clean it. It resolved an oddity I had where I would be going down a long steeper grade downhill and it would suddenly throw a 'reduced engine performance' and a MAF code... 15 mins of labor, never came back.

As for software -- I too have VCDS for my VWs, and for this truck I got the IID tool. It's very slick, plugs into OBD2 like VCDS, but doesn't need a computer at all, can be controlled via the cruise control buttons on the wheel! The iPhone/iPad app works very well too.

I went with this as I can keep it in the truck at all times, and not have "brought the laptop in the house last night and now I need it!" like... I've had happen.

Dave

 

Thanks for the warm welcome and words of wisdom Dave. Cleaning the TB along with a reset of the fuel trims by jumping a length of wire between + & - battery cables (disconnected of course) is exactly what I did and the TB really wasn't in bad shape (perhaps tight tolerance in the software and readings).

Sounds like IID it is... they were at the top of a short list, and the no laptop bit is very nice because that is usually in the TT

 

I was thinking more about this last night and its interesting the recirculation path that the LR engineers picked for the crank case. The one tube feeds awful close to the MAF and the other is right next to the TB.

So all the oil vapors are being fed right back into two mission critical areas. This is without a doubt why the TB gets coated with oil residue and should probably be cleaned every oil change along with spraying down the MAF with approved cleaner.

 

Yes, it would be really nice to separate it, the valve ports seem to accumulate a lot of carbon, probably as a result.

 

I'm thinking this engine could benefit from a catch can, possibly two of them (one for each side) to help filter the crankcase better. The idea in my head is to find a used set of breather tubes and cut them in half to leverage the stock fittings.

From the short hard line I will run a section of heater hose to the lower port on the catch can, and the top port will feed back to the throttle body (both cans). I will cap the port right past the MAF to eliminate any air dirty going in before the TB.

Will keep everyone posted after I find a used set of lines.